Amp Camp Amp Kit 1.6/1.8

Measurements are a beautiful thing. I honestly do not know what the output power is at 1% for 4 ohms.

Remember this topic is about using the ACA as a bridged mono block amplifier and as such loudspeaker designs (and especially inefficient ones) with persistently lower impedances (3-4 ohm loads between 100 Hz to 5khz) are probably not recommended especially if higher power is desired.

But for 8 ohms and 16 ohms, see here for details.

Best,
Anand.

jaapatina,

Getting back to your question ;-)

It appears to me that when you build the ACA in a bridged monoblock version and use the XLR inputs with a balanced source and a +24V supply, the max power at 16 ohms, 8 ohms and 4 ohms assuming 1% max distortion is a conservative ~ 18 watts, 10 watts and likely 5 watts respectively. This I believe is because the output stage of the ACA is an SE design.

Somebody please correct me if I am wrong!

In any case, building this design as monoblocks and using the XLR inputs should be sonically advantageous because of the distortion cancellation afforded by the balanced input itself.

Best,
Anand.

Thanks,
Anand.
 
I have an 'implementation' question:

If you place the ON/OFF switch up front, you only need to take the +V cables to the front. The ground cable needs not 'travel' all the way up to the front and back. Yet, on the ACA 1.5 build guide, those two cables are twisted together.

I have read here (there, somewhere else?) that twisting some cables (not sure if V+ and GND, or if In+ and G, or Out + and Out -) may help reduce HUM.

So, first, which pair or pairs are better served by twisting them?
If the +V and GND, should I run a GND cable all the way up to the front for it to be twisted with the interrupted V+? Does it not matter at all?

Thanks for any feedback, best regards,
Rafa.

edit: Also, why should I double the cable width (twist two red cables) from the PSU to the Switch? Is this just to keep double cable impedance before the interruption and then single-cables interrupted V+? Hard to explain, hope it makes sense.
 
Last edited:
It is most critical to twist wires if you have AC but you will never have a perfect DC so it will always be the better solution to twist DC cables also. The double wires is if you feed both channels then you have same mm2 cables all the way. If you optimize for sound quality you don't implement such a switch. Then you just have your main power switch at the 230VAC side and make wiring inside the amp as simple as possible. I am very satisfied with my result. So something to look forward to......if you make a good implementation……:violin:
 

Attachments

  • DSC_3812.jpg
    DSC_3812.jpg
    292.1 KB · Views: 737

6L6

Moderator
Joined 2010
Paid Member
Twisting/switching both is probably advantageous...? But in my opinion not worth experimenting to find out.

When the next version guide is made, I'll likely only switch the +DC lead for simplicity's sake, and because it was completely fine on the original and 2nd versions.
 
and... thinking about it: might even build these as *plain* monos, right?
(just *one* board/channel per "box": don't need 15W, 8 are already more than twice the 2a3 SET i'm happily using :) )

any contraindication?


I did something like that. I needed the extra space in the box for some large audio grade output caps.


300VA should do it. I have 300VA pr channel…...but that is just me. Don't think you can be sure to pull 8 watt in 8 ohm out of it. It is rated as 5W. It seems to be more than enough for 94 dB speakers with "easy" impedance curve.
 
and while waiting for my ACA kits to be delivered... finished assembling(*) a dual rail 24v LPS :)
my very first "build" *ever* :ashamed:

(*) using ready-made parts: an Audiophonics' LPS board and an ATL DC blocker. Transformer is a Toroidy 300VA 230 -> x2 18v: Galaxy case by Hi-Fi 2000
 

Attachments

  • DualRail_24vLPS.jpg
    DualRail_24vLPS.jpg
    283.1 KB · Views: 606
Last edited:
hardest part was figuring out why, first time I turned it on, it wasn't working :scratch2:
found out, half an hour later, they sold me two dead fuses :mad:


oh... and... while checking voltage at outputs... neg probe slipped and shorted on the + one: feckin' n00bs :rolleyes:

all still working fine, though. just must buy new probes
 

Attachments

  • ShortedProbes.jpg
    ShortedProbes.jpg
    195.4 KB · Views: 585