Power Supply Soft Start Board (V3)

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Myleftear....As Mark encouraged you I will also...if you’re going to be building up PCBs for various projects it’s a good skill to look at the characteristics of the expired parts and do your own searches for substitution parts. It will be an extremely useful skill. I’m a neophyte builder as well and it took me the better part of a year, and a number of stereo amp fixes/upgrades/builds to get somewhat competent. My personal tip..if you’re buying boards to build things (like the soft start) always buy two so you can have a blank one as a reference to check where things go and in what direction or positioning. Sometimes the pictures of the blank boards, or ones already filled, may be different versions and may not fully represent what you have in your hand.

Best, Pete
 
Hi Rudy

I'm no engineer but I know that the Mundorf caps are expensive! I think its worth a little more to protect them. I can hear my transformer 'charging' and its only a small 300VA.

In terms of your load going through the soft start I don't know what it can handle.

Bones, do you want outside dimension or from centre of mounting holes?

Where is the best source for Mundorf caps? Mouser, digikey and partsexpress don't seem to carry them.
 
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Just curious...I guess you’re looking for some other project because the SoftStart boards don’t call for those caps. The Mundorf MKPs are the lowest grade they have. The Evo or Supreme Evo are better sounding for amp/pre-amp builds but they are more expensive (and much bigger). MKPs are great for crowded build situations tho..
 
Yes, I was searching the various forums. The Mundorfs are for the input coupling caps on a WHAMMY I just built and I want to compare how those sound compared to Solen and Jensens I have as a few people were raving about them on the build.

This is why I love DIY and this forum: its all about learning and building components that YOU like to listen to.
 
This thread is for discussions about the Power Supply Soft Start Board (V3) in the store. This is an updated version of the Soft Start V2 boards, primarily to make them compatible with the 10x10 grid mounting pattern we've now standardized on so they can be easily mounted to Deluxe chassis baseplate, riser panels, front panels and/or heatsinks. Refer to the Soft Start V2 discussion thread for additional information.

Change History
  • 2.0 First Production Version
  • 2.0.1 Added board dimensions
  • 3.0 New Layout
    • Double sided board
    • Moved AC in and Txfrmr connections to ends of board
    • Added Keystone connectors as option
    • Conforms to 10mm mounting grid
  • For future changes

    • Add polarity markers for electrolytic capacitor

Information
  • Product Page
  • BOM - Attached below (Last updated: Jan 14 2014)
  • Schematic - Coming soon
  • Dimensions - 110mm x 55mm



A note to anyone ordering that the following part numbers are incorrect on the .pdf BOM referenced above:

1 LED1 Red 5mm Red diffused LED 78-THLR6400 2.54mm
1 LED2 Green 5mm Green diffused LED 78-THLG6405 2.54mm

should be these Mouser part numbers:

1 LED1 Red 5mm Red diffused LED 78-TLHR6400 2.54mm
1 LED2 Green 5mm Green diffused LED 78-TLHG6405 2.54mm

Also note that the Omron relays are now these two models as the ones shown in the BOM .pdf are listed as obsolete (note the voltages):

653-G5Q-14-DC12

or

653-G5LE-1-ASIDC5


Happy Trails!
 
Did not read the whole thread (checked V2 and V3 threads though).
At some point it was asked about the R value (before the relay is powered) according to the main voltage, around 230V in Europe, around 115V in US/Japan.
There was a formula in the V2 tread to define R: Vmain^2/current/Vsecondaries; as far as I remember.

Is the proposed softstart circuit supposed to work the same for both main voltages?
Shall R be changed according to the main (i.e. according to where the circuit is used)?
 
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Is the proposed softstart circuit supposed to work the same for both main voltages?

Thats an implied “Yes” in the build guide for V2 by JojoD818.


QUOTE=r_jik45;6143332] Shall R be changed according to the main (i.e. according to where the circuit is used)?[/QUOTE]

That’s also a yes; Total parallel resistance from R15 to R18 of about 45-50 ohms for 220-240VAC while for 100-20VAC it’s 30-35 ohms.

"The recommended values are the best compromise for time delay time and initial charge w/o R15 to R18 overheating."

Cheers, Pete
 
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Oh, they do give a range of values for R15-R18 if that's what you're looking for. For 220VAC the total parallel resistance is recommended to be 45-50 ohms (so 4x180ohm 5W resistors in parallel = 45ohms). For 110-120VAC the total parallel resistance is 30-35ohms (so 4x140ohm 5W resistors in parallel =35 ohms).. Even tho the build guide initially says 4x 150-180ohm resistors the "ideas & alternatives" section says something different. Resistance calculation for parallel resistors is 1/R(total)=1/R1+1/R2+1/R3+1/R4.

For C9 just use 0.68uF (for 110-120VAC) or 0.33uF (for 220VAC). That gives about the longest delay for each voltage.

Is that what you were seeking?
 
Hi again Pete,
Was refering to the schematics from the store (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1006/5046/files/SSSchematic.jpg). Not the same references but likely what I was looking for. The capacitor you are speaking about is likely the 'Radial Polypropolene Snubber' one.
Already ordered a set of resistors for 40 ohms and a capacitor of 330nF for 220-240VAC. Will check the other values for a 110-120VAC version.
Thanks again for the detailed reply.