Chassis Discussion

Try finding an M3 male/female standoff at the local hardware store.

Not a local hardware store, they came from Hong Kong, but I bought a whole bag of 'em off Amazon. It did take a couple of weeks, just an alternative if you're not in a desperate need.

I had a few odds and ends left over from computer case hardware, but not enough identical for even one amp.
 
I recently ordered the Dissipante 4U chassis with 4mm front panel for $169 shipped from our store for another FW build. I am very satisfied with this purchase and price. Also in the brochure sent with the chassis I notice the the manufacturer offers extensive custom work for those that desire to personalize the case. I am sure our store can arrange this option if one desires.
 
Drawings for custom CAD?

I am building a stereo power level meter project. I plan on using the Slimline 4U with aluminum panels and the 10mm thick aluminum front panel from the diyAudio Store. The meters I will use are oval shaped, so will require a pair of oval shaped holes in the front panel. They also will require an area to be milled down from the back side of the front panel so that the meters sit into the recess. The recess is roughly oval, but with some protrusions.
What is the best way to supply the CAD drawings? Should I supply a separate drawing for the front panel that shows the holes that go all the way through and another drawing that shows the recesses that are milled from the back side? Or should I use one drawing and use notes and different lin-types to show the through and recesses on the same drawing?

Thanks,
Terry
 
I am building a stereo power level meter project. I plan on using the Slimline 4U with aluminum panels and the 10mm thick aluminum front panel from the diyAudio Store. The meters I will use are oval shaped, so will require a pair of oval shaped holes in the front panel. They also will require an area to be milled down from the back side of the front panel so that the meters sit into the recess. The recess is roughly oval, but with some protrusions.
What is the best way to supply the CAD drawings? Should I supply a separate drawing for the front panel that shows the holes that go all the way through and another drawing that shows the recesses that are milled from the back side? Or should I use one drawing and use notes and different lin-types to show the through and recesses on the same drawing?

Thanks,
Terry

Attached is what I recently created for recessed milling.
 

Attachments

  • Mez_Front.dwg.zip
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Quick question - the case I ordered came with a base plate that was a bit tacky to the touch. I presume it's some leftover lube from machining/punching/bending. The question is how to completely remove it, as I don't want it attracting and trapping stray dust-bunnies or bugs. The flat surfaces did fairly well with hot water, soap and a lot of elbow grease. However that left the edges of the holes still sticky. Short of getting a baby bottle brush and going thru each hole (on a 32 x 24 hole grid, or nearly 800 holes!), what can be done?
 
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Quick question - the case I ordered came with a base plate that was a bit tacky to the touch. I presume it's some leftover lube from machining/punching/bending. The question is how to completely remove it, as I don't want it attracting and trapping stray dust-bunnies or bugs. The flat surfaces did fairly well with hot water, soap and a lot of elbow grease. However that left the edges of the holes still sticky. Short of getting a baby bottle brush and going thru each hole (on a 32 x 24 hole grid, or nearly 800 holes!), what can be done?

Perhaps this quick tip from Hifi2000 will help:

To clean the base and our panels we usually use some glass cleaner (as weird it may sound, it gets the job done!)
 
Are the Galaxy Chassis (or any of the chassis) in the diyaudio store good for tube amp builds?
I'm concerned about the weight of the transformers, along with everything else mounted underneath the top plate.

Also, can I customize the top panel holes for the transformers, tube socket openings, etc?
 
Using aluminum rear/top/bottom covers on chassis originally supplied with steel cover

Per the title. I have a 2U Dissipante chassis that I had bought directly from modushop several years ago, but had never completed casing the headphone amp that it is for. I don't like the steel rear and top/bottom covers and wanted to purchase the aluminum ones from diyaudio store (or from modushop).

I had sent a message the other day asking if the aluminum rear cover was compatible with this chassis, and was told it wasn't. I'm having a hard time understanding that as
a) the heatsinks are the same (I think?), and
b) the steel rails that mount to the heatsink are what the front/rear panels mount to. Are these different?

Can anyone enlighten me as to why the aluminum rear panel wouldn't work?

Also, same question regarding the top and bottom panels.

Also, I'll need to poke around more, but are case drawings available here?

Thanks,
Chris
 
I got clarification on this from Gianluca of modushop. Via email he said:

No problem in changing the steel top/bottom/rear to their aluminum counterparts. Keep in mind that the panels have all to be made of the same material, that means if you want the rear panel of the chassis to be made of aluminium the covers will have to be made of aluminium too.

The reason for this is the steel covers have 2 small folds that can only be placed on top of the steel rear panel.


So the official answer is you can replace the steel panels with aluminum, but you must do all of them.
 
After buying 2 through the diyAudio store I was surprised to find the Galaxy cases are about 50% dearer than buying through the supplier. It might work for those in USA who get free shipping but Australia gets hit with a shipping fee (reasonably priced FedEx though).

I'm still happy with the price I paid but thought diyAudio store may have had a better deal. I think it could be the store is set at US$ and not Euro like the supplier and currency fluctuations over time have distorted the price.

Still, much better than anything I can buy in Oz and nicely made.
 
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First of all, thank you for your order! :)

You hit the nail on the head when you noticed that the 2-3 day "Economy" FedEx was reasonably priced. It's cheaper because the product prices are higher because shipping is already baked in for US customers. What matters is the total you pay including shipping. For US customers that's easy - they just look at the price and that's it right there. For Aussies... you have to wait till you get to the checkout page.

All prices we offer should be very similar once you work out the shipping and get the total price you are going to pay for your order. We use the same RRP as Hifi2000 to start our calculations, we bake in shipping to the US into the prices, and then we adjust all ~500 prices regularly according to FX rates to keep everything in sync. The prices you see are including shipping to the USA, and if you order to Australia, the total price including shipping should work out almost exactly the same as if you ordered directly from Hifi2000 themselves. Sometimes a touch more, sometimes a touch less.

I've checked the prices and here's how we stack up (unless I'm mistaken) in your case.

Order Direct from ModuShop
  1. 2 x Galaxy 1GX247 including their 6% discount for 2: EUR37.60
  2. FedEx Economy shipping to Australia: EUR34
  3. Total: EUR71.60 = ~USD88.79 at today's exchange rates

Order from diyAudio Store (figures from your order):
  1. 2 x Galaxy GX247 including our $20 discount for 2: USD68
  2. FedEx Economy shipping to Australia: USD21.73
  3. Total: USD89.73

So in this case the difference is 94c (about 1%). If you happen to be paying in USD you'll save typically about 3% on a credit card's foreign transaction conversion (or PayPal's hefty FX conversion fees).

Our prices are primarily set up for people in the US so they can instantly see the price including shipping to the US. The US is our main market. Because we melt shipping into the US prices for the convenience of US customers, the shipping fee is actually slightly less for people from other countries (like Australia, see above) than the shipping fee you'd pay directly from Modushop (but the item price is slightly higher).

For people in the US, who order with USD, they also usually save 3% on foreign transaction fees (we send money in large invoices to Hifi2000 using Transferwise at ~0.7% so we carry the burden of FX fees for US customers as well). So in the above example a US customer would actually be saving a few percent ordering with us. I know it's a bit obscure, but basically we decided early on to simplify pricing so US customers could easily see how much the bottom line price including shipping is.

Of course, other benefits of ordering through the diyAudio store are native English speaking support and also the fact you're financially supporting diyAudio indirectly as well. So even if sometimes it's a few dollars difference, it's arguably going to a good cause.

If there's a message in this I guess it's not to worry too much about comparing our prices and Modushop's because they should be very similar, and they auto-adjust for FX, but please email contact@diyaudiostore.com if you think something is not competitive. I wrote the pricing algorithms, but I'm just human, we do sometimes make mistakes, but the pricing algorithm has been unchanged now for about 12 months. All pricing should generally be very close within a few percent, and as I mentioned if you pay in USD you save on FX as well.

Anyway, thanks for your order and I hope I've explained a bit about how our pricing might not be transparent if you are just comparing the prices of a specific item in both stores without considering shipping. Our prices including shipping to the US, and that embedded shipping is automatically applied as a discount to the shipping charged for other countries.
 
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