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Selling: Marantz 510m (Broken)

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I'm selling this amp becasue it is broken and i do not have the means of fixing it myself. The left channel controll board is missing. However, the right channel still works. I am not sure how much these go for, so I am going to offer it for $350 or b/o. Please let me know if this is an unreasonable price.

This was a great sounding amp. I hate to see it go, but it isnt doing any good just sitting around here. I'm hoping someone who knows how to repair it, or has a broken one themself, will be able to put it to good use.

If your interested contact me about payment and shipping. It is a heavy amp so shipping will not be cheap. If you live in the New Hampshire area I could also arrange for local pick up.

See the pictures below for more information.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
What happened to the board...
thats a rather embarassing story.

Using my limited knowledge on the workings of a power amplifier I thought I would be able to repair the blown board. However, when I took it out I was unable to find the correct replacement parts. So, I set it aside hopeing to find someone who could repair it. We have since moved. In the move it became lost and I haven't seen it since. I'm thinking my mom might have thrown it out thinking it was just another old gutted VCR. Either way it is no where to be found and I can't find a replacement.

I would desperatly like to learn how to build a replacement board / become more familiar with these types of electronics. However, I really dont know where to start.
 
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Hi sound_prodigy,
I would desperatly like to learn how to build a replacement board
Too easy!

Take pictures of your good board. Top and each side. Take all the components off, noting the designator on the board and the actual part value.

Now here's the fun part. Get a new copper clad PCB or two. Tape the old one on top with the foil the same way as the new board (both down or both up).

Using a drill press, use the old board as a guide and drill out all the holes. You can enlarge the screw holes later. Take the boards apart and check you have all the holes.

Clean lightly with steel wool, follow with Methyl Hydrate until it is clean. Looking at the old board, connect the dots and run the traces the same way as the original. The resist pens using blue ink are the very best. Start the pen on some scrap.

Etch your new clone in Ferric Chloride (it's brownish) or another acid for making PCB's. 10 ~ 20 min should do it. Float the new board on top, copper down. You may be able to see through it when it's c;ose to done. The blue resist will withstand over-etching.

Rinse under water, you're done. Build them.

-Chris
 
Okay I have a question.

Is it possible or likely that some components on the original board went up in smoke due to a transistor failure? Or do you think that failure was in the board itself?

After reading some of that post on the old crown i saw something about how the transister and all the assosiated parts died.
 
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Hi sound_prodigy,
Is it possible or likely that some components on the original board went up in smoke due to a transistor failure? Or do you think that failure was in the board itself?
Does that matter in the least? That board is gone.

Test the transistors on the heatsink assembly and replace whatever is bad. You should be able to find the mating connectors at Newark, Digikey or Mouser.

The rest you need to replace. Pretend it's all bad, huge burn mark and nothing is left but the stench of burned parts. This way you don't have to clean anything, it's just plain gone. ;)

-Chris
 
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