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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Hi,
I'm looking for someone to build me one of Zaph's design. If you are interested just send me a PM. The cost of buying the tools will be greater than the cost of the speakers themselves. I am looking for someone professional to build me this great project. Max |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Which design ? many of them are suited to PE cabinets. /sreten.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Well I'm looking for the Bargain Aluminum MTM. However, I saw cabinets online made by plywood and danish oil and it looked really good. I'm trying to convince my wife that these tools are mandatory for work but I guess I'll just pay someone to do them.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Victoria, BC
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My suggestion would be to buy the tools - they amortize over multiple projects and increase your capabilities.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Editor
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
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This is what sreten is referring to:
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....2&rak=Cabinets They appear to be high quality and have all the details thought out- They will probably be cheaper than hiring someone to make boxes and come out better... see if you can find a box about the correct width. If it is a bit too big in internal volume, just add some internal bracing- or cut some lengths of 4x4 and glue them inside... I have no connection to Parts Express of course.. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Is there any good place to learn how to cut the holes for the speakers and how to mount them flush. I'm pretty unfamiliar with routers.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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I would reccomend some PVC speakers. I'm building a pair around the RadioShack 40 - 1041s (el cheapo speaker drivers), and they sound very nice.
http://t-linespeakers.org/projects/sampson/index.html They're really, really easy to build - my 40-1041 fit perfectly into the coupler end of a 4" elbow joint. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Des Moines, IA
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Quote:
You will need a scrap piece of wood and some clamps to hold the front baffle secure while you cut into it. You will also need a drill to cut the guide hole for the circle jig. The Parts Express boxes look nice and are solidly built with bracing. The front baffles are 1" and are removeable. Wear a mask over your mouth so you don't breathe too much MDF dust. Best to do the routing outdoors or in garage. Flush mounting just means cutting the outer diameter of the driver with the plunge router set to something like 1/4" depth. For an 8" driver I make 4 passes at between 8 and 8 3/4" for example. You do this with 1/4" depth. Then to make the final cut through the board do that again in passes, taking maybe no more than 1/2" at a pass. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Yorkshire, England
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Sorry, Max, for the slight hijack...
Does anyone know of a UK/European source for readymade cabinets similar to the Daytons sold by Parts Express? My brother is looking for some to use until he has time to build from scratch. Shipping to the UK from PE is prohibitively expensive ($150 for a pair - 1.5 times the price of a pair of the 0.38cuft boxes he's looking at). Thanks Greg |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Greg, why not just go for one of the Wilmslow or ILP Acoustics kits that come with flatpack cabinets? You only need a little glue and a couple of luggage straps, ( or even gaffa tape will do if you have an extra pair of hands), for clamping and you're sorted.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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