I need a 21W54,as I have three,and I need the fourth to make a pair of woofers for a 3 way D'appolito configuration , done in 3 separate boxes, a la Goldmund, etc. A MTM midle piecve, with two separate woofer boxes, one above, one below.
In case you re interested, it's the new Skanspeak Ring tweeter,and a pair of either the 5" Skanning drivers or the 7" skanning drivers I have, as the midrange/midbass.
It should kick tremendous ***.
In case you re interested, it's the new Skanspeak Ring tweeter,and a pair of either the 5" Skanning drivers or the 7" skanning drivers I have, as the midrange/midbass.
It should kick tremendous ***.
hummm.. hard to find part...
yep, this is very hard to find one. Mine was got via distributor as they can get one or two pieces from factory to replace blown ones... Have you tried remo at netherlands? or speakerland at same country? They do not have it in stock but maybe you can ask and they can get one piece from factory.
www.remo.nl
www.speakerland.nl
I think the URL was...
regards..
Hisatugo.
yep, this is very hard to find one. Mine was got via distributor as they can get one or two pieces from factory to replace blown ones... Have you tried remo at netherlands? or speakerland at same country? They do not have it in stock but maybe you can ask and they can get one piece from factory.
www.remo.nl
www.speakerland.nl
I think the URL was...
regards..
Hisatugo.
I have 2 available, I'd like to keep them paired. I need one Scanspeak 25w/8565-00 or 01. If you have one of those then i'll swap 1 for 1 otherwise 150 ea. very good shape. Send me an email & i send ya pics, And talk out a deal.
my new 2 ways
http://home.earthlink.net/~markmelh.../sitebuilderpictures/2wayfrontcompwstereo.jpg
ttyl mark
my new 2 ways
http://home.earthlink.net/~markmelh.../sitebuilderpictures/2wayfrontcompwstereo.jpg
ttyl mark
I was only hoping you may of had one, My cost at Speaker City is 160.00 new. I really hate to separate these. And perfer not to
here are the new stands
http://home.earthlink.net/~markmelheim/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/p1010244.jpg
here are the new stands
http://home.earthlink.net/~markmelheim/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/p1010244.jpg
For the side panels consider this:
Go to a store that carries TRI-ART brand MICACIOUS IRON OXIDE. Take a liter of that, mix it with a liter of TRI-ART NEPHALINE GEL COARSE, or fine, whtever you think will work best.
Mix that with a liter of the TRI-ART branded "Topcoat", which is a water based Urathane Topcoat. The topcoat goes very hard, like a floor Urathane, but remains flexable forever. Huh? Yes.
Make molds for the side panels, and pour the mix in. There will be shrinkage, but not much. Let dry. Voila! Instant world class damping compund, molded as side panels. Not that instant though..as it will take the side panel materials weeks to begin to harden. It is a very slow hardening acrylic. The resultant material is... well.... very effective.
Fill it with the right pigment or other TRI-ART color, for the side panel coloration you may desire.
Think of it as a version of the original Green colored DYNAMAT that was far, far, far more effective thatn the stuff they sell today. They stopped selling the original Dynamat as supposedly..it was too expensive to make anymore. No one would pay for it. This would be similar..except, this would be much more dense. Or, simply use it as a dampening compound inside boxes. I don't think you could make or buy anything much better. Well, you can make better, but it would have to be done at the labratory level. I was musing and walking about the factory...and decided to try that combination out. It worked quite well. Like Dynamat, you would end up with a absorbant thermoplastic.
Take a look at my signature to see if I know what I am talking about.
If you want to try this experiment out, let me know. Part of my payment could be these materials. I suspect I will buy both woofers, but his might offset my costs a bit. Remember, this is an experiment. I have tried it myself..and it works beautifully in my opinion.
Go to a store that carries TRI-ART brand MICACIOUS IRON OXIDE. Take a liter of that, mix it with a liter of TRI-ART NEPHALINE GEL COARSE, or fine, whtever you think will work best.
Mix that with a liter of the TRI-ART branded "Topcoat", which is a water based Urathane Topcoat. The topcoat goes very hard, like a floor Urathane, but remains flexable forever. Huh? Yes.
Make molds for the side panels, and pour the mix in. There will be shrinkage, but not much. Let dry. Voila! Instant world class damping compund, molded as side panels. Not that instant though..as it will take the side panel materials weeks to begin to harden. It is a very slow hardening acrylic. The resultant material is... well.... very effective.
Fill it with the right pigment or other TRI-ART color, for the side panel coloration you may desire.
Think of it as a version of the original Green colored DYNAMAT that was far, far, far more effective thatn the stuff they sell today. They stopped selling the original Dynamat as supposedly..it was too expensive to make anymore. No one would pay for it. This would be similar..except, this would be much more dense. Or, simply use it as a dampening compound inside boxes. I don't think you could make or buy anything much better. Well, you can make better, but it would have to be done at the labratory level. I was musing and walking about the factory...and decided to try that combination out. It worked quite well. Like Dynamat, you would end up with a absorbant thermoplastic.
Take a look at my signature to see if I know what I am talking about.
If you want to try this experiment out, let me know. Part of my payment could be these materials. I suspect I will buy both woofers, but his might offset my costs a bit. Remember, this is an experiment. I have tried it myself..and it works beautifully in my opinion.
Sounds interesting, But I'll have to pass on that one. I have to many pots on the fire, And need to pull back & finish some priority projects. If your up for the drivers, send me an email & I'll send my contact info & we can exchange addresses for the drivers and payment. Iam guessing the box is 15-20 lbs.
thanks mark
markmelheim(at)earthlink(dot).net
please replace symbols @ .
thanks mark
markmelheim(at)earthlink(dot).net
please replace symbols @ .
Welll...not so fast. We have to haggle. I was willing to take them if some of the expense could be offset via some product out of the factory.
but..if you want the $300, that ain't going to happen. I'll take them both for $200 then.
If they were $300, then I would simply sell my three 21W54's (which are mint, one basically unused, and in their boxes) for $300. Then, I'd take the $300 you are asking and put it with that. Suddenly I have $600 to spend toward some newer Skan-speak drivers, and also be able to choose amongst a few different drivers.
So...for me..$600US = about ..$750 cdn. Hmmm..that's $187 each. That does not include shipping, taxes and duty on importing the (your) US located drivers either. Raise that total to about $850. So, that's $215, approx.. per 8" driver, I'd have to spend, in equivalent funds to this whole expense package.
I like the 21W54, but..i don't use ported boxes. In my opinion (like ******** we all have one!!! There is a reason I'm stating it that way,as you will soon see and others will possibly feel about me), is that ported boxes suck. I mean really, realy suck. A minimum of 50% distortion in the bass does not appeal to me. Ported boxes are ~crap~ for bass. Seriously. THe 21W54 works in sealed boxes..but the entire back loading of them to get an efficent dynamically correct match is at about 40 liters fo the pair, max sealed volume. And when making a pair of 3 way (WMTMW) boxes.. that is a limitation. If I choose another driver, I might be much better off. I like the 21W54, as I have worked with it before,and know it's foibles. Skanspeak uses the same motor on many drivers, so I have many to choose from, and one of those might better suit this application.
So, in conclusion price IS an issue here. I mean, heck, i might jsut get 4 Morels instead. They behave beautifully in sealed boxes. With mucho clean midbass for a nice huge crossover region. The 21W54 IS problematic in that regard. But I would prefer the Skanning designed motor. The price is creeping up too close to an issue of buying new drivers instead, due to the inclusive issues stated here.
but..if you want the $300, that ain't going to happen. I'll take them both for $200 then.
If they were $300, then I would simply sell my three 21W54's (which are mint, one basically unused, and in their boxes) for $300. Then, I'd take the $300 you are asking and put it with that. Suddenly I have $600 to spend toward some newer Skan-speak drivers, and also be able to choose amongst a few different drivers.
So...for me..$600US = about ..$750 cdn. Hmmm..that's $187 each. That does not include shipping, taxes and duty on importing the (your) US located drivers either. Raise that total to about $850. So, that's $215, approx.. per 8" driver, I'd have to spend, in equivalent funds to this whole expense package.
I like the 21W54, but..i don't use ported boxes. In my opinion (like ******** we all have one!!! There is a reason I'm stating it that way,as you will soon see and others will possibly feel about me), is that ported boxes suck. I mean really, realy suck. A minimum of 50% distortion in the bass does not appeal to me. Ported boxes are ~crap~ for bass. Seriously. THe 21W54 works in sealed boxes..but the entire back loading of them to get an efficent dynamically correct match is at about 40 liters fo the pair, max sealed volume. And when making a pair of 3 way (WMTMW) boxes.. that is a limitation. If I choose another driver, I might be much better off. I like the 21W54, as I have worked with it before,and know it's foibles. Skanspeak uses the same motor on many drivers, so I have many to choose from, and one of those might better suit this application.
So, in conclusion price IS an issue here. I mean, heck, i might jsut get 4 Morels instead. They behave beautifully in sealed boxes. With mucho clean midbass for a nice huge crossover region. The 21W54 IS problematic in that regard. But I would prefer the Skanning designed motor. The price is creeping up too close to an issue of buying new drivers instead, due to the inclusive issues stated here.
KBK
I only stated i had the drivers forsale @ 300.00 US. The Candian conversion, Thats beyond me. An american dollar is only an Amican dollar to me not a Candian one. My offer to sell was for my asking price & I'm especially not going for getting the shaft on the weak dollar. I may consider 250.00. If I was you I'd quit pussy footing around and go for the real deal and get the Audio Technology Skaaning. Rather than wasting time on a drivers of yesteryear.
I too, I'm not favored toward ported boxes in the bass region but for mids & tweets Open baffles rule in all areas hands down over any design.
real speakers-with the best tweeter ever made. I'll put these up againt anything made new or old
http://home.earthlink.net/~markmelheim/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/frontopenbaffles.jpg
the network of the baffles
http://home.earthlink.net/~markmelh.../sitebuilderpictures/crossoveropenbaffles.jpg
a pair of them front & backs
http://home.earthlink.net/~markmelheim/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/openbafflespair.jpg
ttyl
mm
I only stated i had the drivers forsale @ 300.00 US. The Candian conversion, Thats beyond me. An american dollar is only an Amican dollar to me not a Candian one. My offer to sell was for my asking price & I'm especially not going for getting the shaft on the weak dollar. I may consider 250.00. If I was you I'd quit pussy footing around and go for the real deal and get the Audio Technology Skaaning. Rather than wasting time on a drivers of yesteryear.
I too, I'm not favored toward ported boxes in the bass region but for mids & tweets Open baffles rule in all areas hands down over any design.
real speakers-with the best tweeter ever made. I'll put these up againt anything made new or old
http://home.earthlink.net/~markmelheim/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/frontopenbaffles.jpg
the network of the baffles
http://home.earthlink.net/~markmelh.../sitebuilderpictures/crossoveropenbaffles.jpg
a pair of them front & backs
http://home.earthlink.net/~markmelheim/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/openbafflespair.jpg
ttyl
mm
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