The diyaudiostore has all the boards you need, they are approved by Nelson himself and help the forums financially. Your best option in my opinion.
thanks but really after f1 pcbs
Thank you MASantos i have already purchased the amp camp kit built it and am enjoying these monoblocks greatly.I also purchased and built the b1 preamp with official pass diy board.It is unfortunate that i found out about nelson pass only this year,thus missing out on all the fun being a valve man for at least thirty years.what i realy wanted to build is a f1 amplifier from reading years of threads i think this will suit my needs best.however finding suitable pcb is proving impossible any pointers in this direction would be really helpful.Thanks spades.
Thank you MASantos i have already purchased the amp camp kit built it and am enjoying these monoblocks greatly.I also purchased and built the b1 preamp with official pass diy board.It is unfortunate that i found out about nelson pass only this year,thus missing out on all the fun being a valve man for at least thirty years.what i realy wanted to build is a f1 amplifier from reading years of threads i think this will suit my needs best.however finding suitable pcb is proving impossible any pointers in this direction would be really helpful.Thanks spades.
are you planning to drive another bass unit on a passive Xover by the same amp or do you you have that covered by bi-amping? the latter approach should bring about a better result.
I am not into those high sensitivity, forward sounding full rangers but out of the F series an F3 might be a good choice there ; it only may require a preamp for the added gain and for dealing with its lowish input impedance. on the other side of the spectrum an F5 would probably be the least favorable as potentially too bright and too clinical. for the woofer though, if bi-amping, an F5 might be THE right amp to use, (and you can keep the ACA on top).
if you are into valves, and only need more power, you can stay with a flea amp like a 2A3 or smtg and add an F4 behind to just add the current to the valves' voltage swing.
I am not into those high sensitivity, forward sounding full rangers but out of the F series an F3 might be a good choice there ; it only may require a preamp for the added gain and for dealing with its lowish input impedance. on the other side of the spectrum an F5 would probably be the least favorable as potentially too bright and too clinical. for the woofer though, if bi-amping, an F5 might be THE right amp to use, (and you can keep the ACA on top).
if you are into valves, and only need more power, you can stay with a flea amp like a 2A3 or smtg and add an F4 behind to just add the current to the valves' voltage swing.
Thanks for the advice
Thanks for the advice Roja but iam one of those fools who use their fullrange lowthers and like what they do I appreciate that this is a personal view.The amp camp are indeed very good but would like a little more power as the lowther pm6a silver coil are 16 ohm driven by a b1 preamp,the sound is great just need a little more oomph but not to much as houses in the uk are small.regards Spades.
Thanks for the advice Roja but iam one of those fools who use their fullrange lowthers and like what they do I appreciate that this is a personal view.The amp camp are indeed very good but would like a little more power as the lowther pm6a silver coil are 16 ohm driven by a b1 preamp,the sound is great just need a little more oomph but not to much as houses in the uk are small.regards Spades.
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No worries - PM sent, and happy building.
Be aware though! The suds board definitely has a few quirks - I for one couldn't find 220uf caps with the correct pin spacing, and mounting the LU jfet required me to drill a hole in the pcb. I'll send a photo shortly of where I'm at with that build as I only just got back into building it...
Edit:In fairness a fair bit the messing about came because I decided to mount the FET's on the top of the pcb. If you mount the pcb on top of the FET's then I reckon it'd be pretty straightforward. The 220uf caps I used were too big for the space provided, so they ended up on both sides of the pcb.
Be aware though! The suds board definitely has a few quirks - I for one couldn't find 220uf caps with the correct pin spacing, and mounting the LU jfet required me to drill a hole in the pcb. I'll send a photo shortly of where I'm at with that build as I only just got back into building it...
Edit:In fairness a fair bit the messing about came because I decided to mount the FET's on the top of the pcb. If you mount the pcb on top of the FET's then I reckon it'd be pretty straightforward. The 220uf caps I used were too big for the space provided, so they ended up on both sides of the pcb.
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