First off all I want to say sorry if I miss posted this.
What would the buying price be for such a turntable?
Mint conditions - a couple of things wrong with it.
Mine is operational. Only thing wrong with it is that the start buton does not go automatic. Only by hand. It stops automaticly at the end of the record but no start for it.
So I`m curios if it is worth restoring it...or selling it.
It does have a nice sound, and it does have a nice "pose" ....beautifull piece
What would the buying price be for such a turntable?
Mint conditions - a couple of things wrong with it.
Mine is operational. Only thing wrong with it is that the start buton does not go automatic. Only by hand. It stops automaticly at the end of the record but no start for it.
So I`m curios if it is worth restoring it...or selling it.
It does have a nice sound, and it does have a nice "pose" ....beautifull piece
30 years ago they were lubricant problems. Unless something is actually broken a 'disassemble clean and lube' should restore it to proper operation.
Having done dozens of them long ago they are not particularly 'tricky' but it's important to have the proper lubricants. The heavy brown grease was Shell Alvania #2 but Nye 368AX-1 is a sub that outperforms the original. The light machine oil was Isoflex PDP-40 and Nyeoil II is a superior sub. Renotac adhesive oil was used in sections but I don't have a sub for that. Possibly Nye has something. The cue mechanism had Wacker Siliconoil 500000 (? memory fades) which is extremely high viscosity for slow drop of the arm.
Your problem is probably on the big orange or yellow plastic cam on the bottom along with the lever that rides on it and moves the tone arm.
They were the best automatics of the day and come close to the best overall.
G²
Having done dozens of them long ago they are not particularly 'tricky' but it's important to have the proper lubricants. The heavy brown grease was Shell Alvania #2 but Nye 368AX-1 is a sub that outperforms the original. The light machine oil was Isoflex PDP-40 and Nyeoil II is a superior sub. Renotac adhesive oil was used in sections but I don't have a sub for that. Possibly Nye has something. The cue mechanism had Wacker Siliconoil 500000 (? memory fades) which is extremely high viscosity for slow drop of the arm.
Your problem is probably on the big orange or yellow plastic cam on the bottom along with the lever that rides on it and moves the tone arm.
They were the best automatics of the day and come close to the best overall.
G²
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