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Old 11th November 2003, 11:29 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: New England
Default Nice stereo tube amp chassis

For sale: One very nice walnut and aluminum stereo amplifier chassis.

http://users.rcn.com/hpasternack/chassis1.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/hpasternack/chassis2.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/hpasternack/chassis3.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/hpasternack/chassis4.jpg
http://users.rcn.com/hpasternack/chassis5.jpg

This is a partially-complete chassis from a project I started shortly
before relocating to another city. I never finished the amplifier.
The intent was to build a 30W stereo amplifier using ST-70 output
iron. In fact, the layout between the output tubes and transformers
is identical to that of an ST-70, although the chassis is a bit wider
overall.

The hole for the power transformer will likely require some more metal
to be removed to allow space for the leads. The transformer I planned
to use has an offbeat military bolt spacing; slight ovaling of the
existing holes will allow a stock ST-70 power transformer (or better
yet, one of the beefier replacement units from Triode Electronics or
MagneQuest) to be used.

There is a hole on the left for a rectifier tube socket; on the right
is a larger hole for a two-section electrolytic can capacitor. Behind
the capacitor are holes to mount a pair of 1.5H, 200mA chokes, one
per channel. The six holes in the front center are for a circuit
board containing more decoupling capacitors for the driver stage. I
can supply the chokes and six 120uF, 400V Panasonic electrolytic
capacitors at extra cost.

My plan was to use a 40uF polypropylene film capacitor mounted right
on the rectifier tube socket for the filter input capacitor, then
go to two parallel LC filter sections, one for each channel main B+,
and from there to RC filters for the driver supplies.

On the back are cutouts for an IEC power supply socket, a 1/2" fuse
socket, a bat-handle power switch, and phenolic barrier strips for
speaker connections (for that retro look). I was going to put XLR
connectors on the front for the input, but since I haven't drilled
the holes yet, you can do whatever you want.

The woodwork is nicely done with tight fitting joints all around.
A bit of sanding and some finishing oil are all that's required for
a beautiful appearance.

Included in the purchase price is expert consultation on the design
and construction of your amplifier.

What's a chassis like this worth? How about $125?

-Henry
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