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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I am looking for a set of cabinets to use for a CHR 70.3 build. I am open top options (used, new, flat pack, etc). I am in Canada, so shipping may be a limiting factor. I would like to spend $50-$100 if possible. I have uploaded the design of the cabinet I am shooting for.
PM me if you have something that might work. |
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#2 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Ian,
Unless you can find some suitable size at sally ann or VV you are unlikely to meet your budget requirements. The PE 1/4 ft^3 cabinet would fill your need but exceed your budget. The curved ones are quite a bit better than the rectangles. You can order them from Bob (CSS) in Abbottsford. I will send you separate email with what i have. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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I hadn't thought of grabbing a used speaker. Perhaps finding a decent box and making a new baffle out of MDF?
Thanks for the link to CSS, I plan on purchasing the bulk of the my order there (utilizing his parts-express importing). ![]() I assume the cheapest way to do these is to just build it out of MDF and paint it? Do you know of any paints that can be done up into a nice high-gloss paino type finish on MDF? |
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#4 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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I'd never use MDF.
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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What would you use? I thought MDF was the go to material for speaker boxes (if you are a cheap bugger like me)? I have found some 1"X10"X8' pieces of Red Oak at the local lumberyard. I thought about buying that and sanding/staining/polishing it, but from what I've read you shouldn't use solid woods for cabinets due to "wood movement"? What would you use to build a basic but decent looking speaker cabinet? Thanks for helping a Noob!
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#6 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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We use quality plywood.
Lots of people have built very nice boxes out of solid but you really need to know what you are doing. A single slab of solid on top of an existing baffle to repurpose an existing box should be no problam, espically if you use double sided sticky tape like Bob Brines does or a flexible glue that lets the baffle "float" MDF is better than no box, but not much. Particle board is better. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hmm. How do you avoid the plywood cut edges? Is there a way to dress those up or do you veneer your plywood (I don't think i am ready for veneer)?
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Lawton, OK, USA
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Quote:
Jeff |
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#9 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
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MDF is fine, line it with 1 inch open cell foam or 1/2 inch pressed wool to avoid excessive chambe resonance. I have done the CHR70.3 to death and it is good on accoustic, clasical and vocal but is a bit lacking in the low end but good for it's size. The enclosure would be better at .41 cu. ft. with a port of 1.5 inches x 4.5 inches. The F3 is 38HZ but is not powerfull and punchy. Many of my friends prefer it like that as they listen more to Jazz and Clasical.
You can certainly build the boxes with minimal equipment or experience. A circular saw and strait edge guide are all you need. Take time to seal all joints with silicone sealant or other plyable material. Keep going, you will get better and better at this. RR |
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