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Old 27th October 2012, 06:15 PM   #1
Simwiz is offline Simwiz  Canada
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Default WTB - 7.5L Speaker Cabinets for CHR70.3

I am looking for a set of cabinets to use for a CHR 70.3 build. I am open top options (used, new, flat pack, etc). I am in Canada, so shipping may be a limiting factor. I would like to spend $50-$100 if possible. I have uploaded the design of the cabinet I am shooting for.

PM me if you have something that might work.
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File Type: pdf CHR70_BR_box_-_Model_1_1.pdf (192.8 KB, 40 views)
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Old 27th October 2012, 09:03 PM   #2
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Ian,

Unless you can find some suitable size at sally ann or VV you are unlikely to meet your budget requirements.

The PE 1/4 ft^3 cabinet would fill your need but exceed your budget. The curved ones are quite a bit better than the rectangles. You can order them from Bob (CSS) in Abbottsford.

I will send you separate email with what i have.

dave
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Old 27th October 2012, 09:09 PM   #3
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I hadn't thought of grabbing a used speaker. Perhaps finding a decent box and making a new baffle out of MDF?

Thanks for the link to CSS, I plan on purchasing the bulk of the my order there (utilizing his parts-express importing).

I assume the cheapest way to do these is to just build it out of MDF and paint it? Do you know of any paints that can be done up into a nice high-gloss paino type finish on MDF?
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Old 27th October 2012, 09:13 PM   #4
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I'd never use MDF.

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Old 27th October 2012, 09:17 PM   #5
Simwiz is offline Simwiz  Canada
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What would you use? I thought MDF was the go to material for speaker boxes (if you are a cheap bugger like me)?

I have found some 1"X10"X8' pieces of Red Oak at the local lumberyard. I thought about buying that and sanding/staining/polishing it, but from what I've read you shouldn't use solid woods for cabinets due to "wood movement"?

What would you use to build a basic but decent looking speaker cabinet?

Thanks for helping a Noob!
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Old 27th October 2012, 09:33 PM   #6
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We use quality plywood.

Lots of people have built very nice boxes out of solid but you really need to know what you are doing. A single slab of solid on top of an existing baffle to repurpose an existing box should be no problam, espically if you use double sided sticky tape like Bob Brines does or a flexible glue that lets the baffle "float"

MDF is better than no box, but not much. Particle board is better.

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Old 27th October 2012, 09:35 PM   #7
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Hmm. How do you avoid the plywood cut edges? Is there a way to dress those up or do you veneer your plywood (I don't think i am ready for veneer)?
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Old 27th October 2012, 09:57 PM   #8
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Hmm. How do you avoid the plywood cut edges? Is there a way to dress those up or do you veneer your plywood (I don't think i am ready for veneer)?
If you use a good Baltic Birch and a sharp blade when cutting, the edges on end look quite nice when finished out. Baltic is the way to go....it uses veneer based ply not core cut ply...this means all the plys in the construction are thinner veneer grade wood rather than the less dense core parts of the wood which has more voids. The end result is two to three more plys per thickness than standard plywood. Touted as the best construction material by many builders hereof the forum. There are many opinions about what to construct with but I have to agree that Baltic is by far the best material for strength, weight, and finish. It comes in five by five foot sheets which can be a problem if you need longer than 60". Good luck with your build!
Jeff
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Old 27th October 2012, 10:34 PM   #9
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Baltic is the way to go...Touted as the best construction material by many builders hereof the forum
We have gone thru a lot of Baltic Birch. There have always been higher quality ply but until recently it was expensive enuff that it was worthwhile to jump to bamboo plywood (either the vertical or even better stranded), We have recently found Murphy ply (made on OR) which is higher quality and not too much more expensive.

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Old 21st December 2012, 08:54 PM   #10
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MDF is fine, line it with 1 inch open cell foam or 1/2 inch pressed wool to avoid excessive chambe resonance. I have done the CHR70.3 to death and it is good on accoustic, clasical and vocal but is a bit lacking in the low end but good for it's size. The enclosure would be better at .41 cu. ft. with a port of 1.5 inches x 4.5 inches. The F3 is 38HZ but is not powerfull and punchy. Many of my friends prefer it like that as they listen more to Jazz and Clasical.
You can certainly build the boxes with minimal equipment or experience. A circular saw and strait edge guide are all you need. Take time to seal all joints with silicone sealant or other plyable material.
Keep going, you will get better and better at this.

RR
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