FS: AKSA 55 (a must see!)

[Vinnie R.]

Okay, I knew this day was coming and have prepared myself to part with my pride and joy, my baby, my AKSA 55.

I just got married last August and my wife and I are closing on a condo in December. We need a little extra cash and I will be 'simplifying' my audio system (selling my Vienna Acoustics Mozarts speakers and AKSA 55, and probably getting a pair of bookshelf speakers and a budget integrated amp).
I guess I'll be okay with the downgrade

My AKSA 55 is heavily modded and sounds outstanding. The wiring and layout is extremely neat, and currently I have an
APOX-2 remote controlled reed-relay stepped attenuator kit installed. So I connect my source directly to the amp and the 10k APOX-2 stepped attenuator acts as a passive 'preamp.'

NOTE: I can remove the APOX kit from this amp if it is not wanted, but it sound incredible using it with this amp and even beats my DACT CT-2 that I was formerly using. Plus, having the amp remote controlled is definitely sweet!

Hear are some of this kit's specs:

1. POWER SUPPLY SECTION
a. Fully Dual-Mono Design (even separate grounds for L and R
channels)
b. Two 160VA Plitron 25-0-25 Potted Toroid Transformers (+/- 36V rails)
c. Two custom made power supply boards that each contain
-One Panasonic TSHA 63V 5,600uF cap per rail
-Four International Rectifier MUR1020CT 10A Ultrafast
Diodes (Trr = 25ns)
-One 10kohm 5W bleeder resistor per rail
-Screw-type terminal blocks for in/out wiring
-Point-to-Point wiring using 14ga OFC wiring
d. Two custom made relay boards that each contain
- A Potter & Brumfield 30A 240VAC relays (5V coil)
-100nF X2 rated cap and series 100R resistor across hot
and neutral
-zener diode and standard diode in series across relay coil
to clamp any high voltage generated when turning on/off
-Screw-type terminal blocks for in/out wiring

2. AKSA BOARD UPGRADES
a. C1 (input cap) changed to a 0.47uF Hovland Musicap
b. C2 (feedback cap) changed to a Black Gate (red type)
c. C3 (+ rail cap for diff input stage) changed to a Black Gate
(red type)
d. C8 (charge suck-out) upgraded
e. C10 and C12 are replaced/increased with a Panasonic FC
470uF cap
f. D1 replaced with a Schottky Diode
g. Perfect 55mA output transistor bias matching

3. CHASSIS
a. Par-Metal 2U sized chassis with anodized-brushed
aluminum faceplate and black body
b. Cardas gold-plated Binding posts and RCA input jacks
c. 14-guage stranded OFC internal speaker wires and +/-
RAIL/GND wires
d. CAT5e style input signal wires
e. Heat Sink mounted to back panel with bolt, washer, and
wing-nut
f. Each transformer mounted to bottom panel with bolt,
washer, and wing-nut
g. Chassis and heat sink connected to mains ground via IEC
connector
h. Vibration dampening sheet applied to the underside of the
top-plate (not covering the vents though)

4. APOX-2 PASSIVE VOLUME CONTROL (www.dipchipelec.com)
a. APOX-2 Remote controlled 10k Series stepped attenuator
board
b. Very high quality, long life reed-relays instead of a
mechanical switch
c. 20x2 Blue LCD display
d. Optical rotary encoders
e. IR sensor (uses a programmable universal remote control
set to a Sony or Philips code)
f. APOX-IR board controls relay boards to turn on/off the AKSA
55. This can be done via the front panel OR a remote
control!
g. Tons of features using this apox kit
h. APOX kit requires separate 5V 1A power supply (dc input
plug mounted in back of amp


5. PRICE

I am selling this amp for $400 USD without the APOX volume control, or $500 USD with the APOX volume control (as shown in the attached picture). IMHO, nothing comes close to its sound for
under $1,500. It is very impressive and I put in MANY hours into
its neat and tidy construction.

It is fully operational and only really needs a new front panel that incorporates the LCD screen (if you want the APOX kit) if you want it to look perfect. If the APOX kit is not wanted, I can include a heavy duty power switch to the front panel, and even an LED for each channel to indicate power is on. Details, details

I am looking for serious inquiries only

Feel free to email me questions at vinnie822@yahoo.com

[Vinnie R.]

Take a look:

[Vinnie R.]

Another shot:

[Vinnie R.]

Here's a back view:

[grataku]

Come on dude! How is 500 bucks going to help pay for a condo? In the Boston area? If you are unhappy with it is one thing. Since you are probably going to spend more on your so-called "budget system".



Don't do it, you'll regret it, trust me!

[Peter Daniel]

I was about to say the same

[Vinnie R.]

Originally posted by grataku
Come on dude! How is 500 bucks going to help pay for a condo? In the Boston area? If you are unhappy with it is one thing. Since you are probably going to spend more on your so-called "budget system".

HEY, I am also selling my speakers too, so who are you to criticize?
Please, no need to be rude.

[Wright]

I think his point was that you will really regret selling it. Since you spent so much time on it I'd imagine there's some sentimental value, and in the long run $500 won't make too much difference either way. If it were me, I'd sell the speakers and keep the amp/passive combo, and buy some el-cheapo speakers. At least that way you get to keep your work and still have tunes, and when/if you get some more serious speakers again, you will have a great amp to power them with.
I just sold all my diy speakers and I already miss them; if you can hold onto your amp you should. Just my 2 cents.

[agent.5]

Plus it is going to cost money to buy the integrated amp. So, the price difference is going to be...

[Variac]

My first thought was -he's gonna regret this!
Then I read all the responses.

We're not being rude, just trying to help. You've put a lot of cash and effort into this. You won't get half of either back (does what I just said make sense? hmmmm) Anyway go get the point. Your kit really isn't that big what with the integrated volume eliminating the need for a preamp.