Okay, I knew this day was coming and have prepared myself to part with my pride and joy, my baby, my AKSA 55. 
I just got married last August and my wife and I are closing on a condo in December. We need a little extra cash
and I will be 'simplifying' my audio system (selling my Vienna Acoustics Mozarts speakers and AKSA 55, and probably getting a pair of bookshelf speakers and a budget integrated amp).
I guess I'll be okay with the downgrade
My AKSA 55 is heavily modded and sounds outstanding.
The wiring and layout is extremely neat, and currently I have an
APOX-2 remote controlled reed-relay stepped attenuator kit installed. So I connect my source directly to the amp and the 10k APOX-2 stepped attenuator acts as a passive 'preamp.'
NOTE: I can remove the APOX kit from this amp if it is not wanted, but it sound incredible using it with this amp and even beats my DACT CT-2 that I was formerly using. Plus, having the amp remote controlled is definitely sweet!
Hear are some of this kit's specs:
1. POWER SUPPLY SECTION
a. Fully Dual-Mono Design (even separate grounds for L and R
channels)
b. Two 160VA Plitron 25-0-25 Potted Toroid Transformers (+/- 36V rails)
c. Two custom made power supply boards that each contain
-One Panasonic TSHA 63V 5,600uF cap per rail
-Four International Rectifier MUR1020CT 10A Ultrafast
Diodes (Trr = 25ns)
-One 10kohm 5W bleeder resistor per rail
-Screw-type terminal blocks for in/out wiring
-Point-to-Point wiring using 14ga OFC wiring
d. Two custom made relay boards that each contain
- A Potter & Brumfield 30A 240VAC relays (5V coil)
-100nF X2 rated cap and series 100R resistor across hot
and neutral
-zener diode and standard diode in series across relay coil
to clamp any high voltage generated when turning on/off
-Screw-type terminal blocks for in/out wiring
2. AKSA BOARD UPGRADES
a. C1 (input cap) changed to a 0.47uF Hovland Musicap
b. C2 (feedback cap) changed to a Black Gate (red type)
c. C3 (+ rail cap for diff input stage) changed to a Black Gate
(red type)
d. C8 (charge suck-out) upgraded
e. C10 and C12 are replaced/increased with a Panasonic FC
470uF cap
f. D1 replaced with a Schottky Diode
g. Perfect 55mA output transistor bias matching
3. CHASSIS
a. Par-Metal 2U sized chassis with anodized-brushed
aluminum faceplate and black body
b. Cardas gold-plated Binding posts and RCA input jacks
c. 14-guage stranded OFC internal speaker wires and +/-
RAIL/GND wires
d. CAT5e style input signal wires
e. Heat Sink mounted to back panel with bolt, washer, and
wing-nut
f. Each transformer mounted to bottom panel with bolt,
washer, and wing-nut
g. Chassis and heat sink connected to mains ground via IEC
connector
h. Vibration dampening sheet applied to the underside of the
top-plate (not covering the vents though)
4. APOX-2 PASSIVE VOLUME CONTROL (www.dipchipelec.com)
a. APOX-2 Remote controlled 10k Series stepped attenuator
board
b. Very high quality, long life reed-relays instead of a
mechanical switch
c. 20x2 Blue LCD display
d. Optical rotary encoders
e. IR sensor (uses a programmable universal remote control
set to a Sony or Philips code)
f. APOX-IR board controls relay boards to turn on/off the AKSA
55. This can be done via the front panel OR a remote
control!
g. Tons of features using this apox kit
h. APOX kit requires separate 5V 1A power supply (dc input
plug mounted in back of amp
5. PRICE
I am selling this amp for $400 USD without the APOX volume control, or $500 USD with the APOX volume control (as shown in the attached picture). IMHO, nothing comes close to its sound for
under $1,500. It is very impressive and I put in MANY hours into
its neat and tidy construction.
It is fully operational and only really needs a new front panel that incorporates the LCD screen (if you want the APOX kit) if you want it to look perfect. If the APOX kit is not wanted, I can include a heavy duty power switch to the front panel, and even an LED for each channel to indicate power is on. Details, details
I am looking for serious inquiries only
Feel free to email me questions at vinnie822@yahoo.com
I just got married last August and my wife and I are closing on a condo in December. We need a little extra cash
and I will be 'simplifying' my audio system (selling my Vienna Acoustics Mozarts speakers and AKSA 55, and probably getting a pair of bookshelf speakers and a budget integrated amp). I guess I'll be okay with the downgrade
My AKSA 55 is heavily modded and sounds outstanding.
The wiring and layout is extremely neat, and currently I have an APOX-2 remote controlled reed-relay stepped attenuator kit installed. So I connect my source directly to the amp and the 10k APOX-2 stepped attenuator acts as a passive 'preamp.'
NOTE: I can remove the APOX kit from this amp if it is not wanted, but it sound incredible using it with this amp and even beats my DACT CT-2 that I was formerly using. Plus, having the amp remote controlled is definitely sweet!
Hear are some of this kit's specs:
1. POWER SUPPLY SECTION
a. Fully Dual-Mono Design (even separate grounds for L and R
channels)
b. Two 160VA Plitron 25-0-25 Potted Toroid Transformers (+/- 36V rails)
c. Two custom made power supply boards that each contain
-One Panasonic TSHA 63V 5,600uF cap per rail
-Four International Rectifier MUR1020CT 10A Ultrafast
Diodes (Trr = 25ns)
-One 10kohm 5W bleeder resistor per rail
-Screw-type terminal blocks for in/out wiring
-Point-to-Point wiring using 14ga OFC wiring
d. Two custom made relay boards that each contain
- A Potter & Brumfield 30A 240VAC relays (5V coil)
-100nF X2 rated cap and series 100R resistor across hot
and neutral
-zener diode and standard diode in series across relay coil
to clamp any high voltage generated when turning on/off
-Screw-type terminal blocks for in/out wiring
2. AKSA BOARD UPGRADES
a. C1 (input cap) changed to a 0.47uF Hovland Musicap
b. C2 (feedback cap) changed to a Black Gate (red type)
c. C3 (+ rail cap for diff input stage) changed to a Black Gate
(red type)
d. C8 (charge suck-out) upgraded
e. C10 and C12 are replaced/increased with a Panasonic FC
470uF cap
f. D1 replaced with a Schottky Diode
g. Perfect 55mA output transistor bias matching
3. CHASSIS
a. Par-Metal 2U sized chassis with anodized-brushed
aluminum faceplate and black body
b. Cardas gold-plated Binding posts and RCA input jacks
c. 14-guage stranded OFC internal speaker wires and +/-
RAIL/GND wires
d. CAT5e style input signal wires
e. Heat Sink mounted to back panel with bolt, washer, and
wing-nut
f. Each transformer mounted to bottom panel with bolt,
washer, and wing-nut
g. Chassis and heat sink connected to mains ground via IEC
connector
h. Vibration dampening sheet applied to the underside of the
top-plate (not covering the vents though)
4. APOX-2 PASSIVE VOLUME CONTROL (www.dipchipelec.com)
a. APOX-2 Remote controlled 10k Series stepped attenuator
board
b. Very high quality, long life reed-relays instead of a
mechanical switch
c. 20x2 Blue LCD display
d. Optical rotary encoders
e. IR sensor (uses a programmable universal remote control
set to a Sony or Philips code)
f. APOX-IR board controls relay boards to turn on/off the AKSA
55. This can be done via the front panel OR a remote
control!
g. Tons of features using this apox kit
h. APOX kit requires separate 5V 1A power supply (dc input
plug mounted in back of amp
5. PRICE
I am selling this amp for $400 USD without the APOX volume control, or $500 USD with the APOX volume control (as shown in the attached picture). IMHO, nothing comes close to its sound for
under $1,500. It is very impressive and I put in MANY hours into
its neat and tidy construction.
It is fully operational and only really needs a new front panel that incorporates the LCD screen (if you want the APOX kit) if you want it to look perfect. If the APOX kit is not wanted, I can include a heavy duty power switch to the front panel, and even an LED for each channel to indicate power is on. Details, details
I am looking for serious inquiries only
Feel free to email me questions at vinnie822@yahoo.com
grataku said:Come on dude! How is 500 bucks going to help pay for a condo? In the Boston area? If you are unhappy with it is one thing. Since you are probably going to spend more on your so-called "budget system".
HEY, I am also selling my speakers too, so who are you to criticize?
Please, no need to be rude.
I think his point was that you will really regret selling it. Since you spent so much time on it I'd imagine there's some sentimental value, and in the long run $500 won't make too much difference either way. If it were me, I'd sell the speakers and keep the amp/passive combo, and buy some el-cheapo speakers. At least that way you get to keep your work and still have tunes, and when/if you get some more serious speakers again, you will have a great amp to power them with.
I just sold all my diy speakers and I already miss them; if you can hold onto your amp you should. Just my 2 cents.
I just sold all my diy speakers and I already miss them; if you can hold onto your amp you should. Just my 2 cents.
My first thought was -he's gonna regret this!
Then I read all the responses.
We're not being rude, just trying to help. You've put a lot of cash and effort into this. You won't get half of either back (does what I just said make sense?
hmmmm) Anyway go get the point. Your kit really isn't that big what with the integrated volume eliminating the need for a preamp.
Then I read all the responses.
We're not being rude, just trying to help. You've put a lot of cash and effort into this. You won't get half of either back (does what I just said make sense?
hmmmm) Anyway go get the point. Your kit really isn't that big what with the integrated volume eliminating the need for a preamp.
you'ld be a fool to part with it for 500 bucks. (Unless there's som dark secret problem you're hiding) Is it haunted or something.
I agree with Wright, sell the speakers and keep the amp.
Or if someone wants the ASKAs with out the APOX, I'll give you the $100 for tha APOX. That's my next big project.
I agree with Wright, sell the speakers and keep the amp.
Or if someone wants the ASKAs with out the APOX, I'll give you the $100 for tha APOX. That's my next big project.
Aw, c'mon Vinnie,
Don't sell!! You LOVE this amplifier and the APOX, and the sounds it delivers!
This has actually happened with others, one in particular, and guess what - he bought another AKSA a year later and is now a huge fan, having in the meantime bought an 845 SET (which he loves, but not the bass.)
Your AKSA is beautifully built, and your posts on audioasylum and audiocircle show you'd be heartbroken to sell it.
See if you can't find some other source of ready cash.......!
Cheers,
Hugh
Don't sell!! You LOVE this amplifier and the APOX, and the sounds it delivers!
This has actually happened with others, one in particular, and guess what - he bought another AKSA a year later and is now a huge fan, having in the meantime bought an 845 SET (which he loves, but not the bass.)
Your AKSA is beautifully built, and your posts on audioasylum and audiocircle show you'd be heartbroken to sell it.
See if you can't find some other source of ready cash.......!
Cheers,
Hugh
Don't do it, you'll regret it!
Trust your
not your brains!
Audiofanatic
grataku said:Come on dude! How is 500 bucks going to help pay for a condo? In the Boston area? If you are unhappy with it is one thing. Since you are probably going to spend more on your so-called "budget system".
Don't do it, you'll regret it, trust me!
Trust your
not your brains!Audiofanatic
You guys are great
All,
I was a little defensive last night and needed to sleep on it, so my apologies for taking good advice the wrong way
Yeah, selling my speakers for $1,600 and getting a pair of
bookshelf speakers (like the Triangle Titus 202's) for $450
may be the way I'll go for now.
I really didn't want to part with my work, I was just trying to
simplify things by getting stock gear that I wouldn't tamper with (yeah right, who am I fooling anyway?)
Thanks everyone for looking out for me, I wasn't thinking too straight about this.
Sincerely,
Vinnie
All,
I was a little defensive last night and needed to sleep on it, so my apologies for taking good advice the wrong way
Yeah, selling my speakers for $1,600 and getting a pair of
bookshelf speakers (like the Triangle Titus 202's) for $450
may be the way I'll go for now.
I really didn't want to part with my work, I was just trying to
simplify things by getting stock gear that I wouldn't tamper with (yeah right, who am I fooling anyway?)
Thanks everyone for looking out for me, I wasn't thinking too straight about this.
Sincerely,
Vinnie
In 1984 I sold a pair of JBL L19's. I'm still wondering why??? (They sounded fine to me, anyhow).
Not trying to threadjack or anything, but if you ask for people to submit tales of woe of how they wish they never sold some particular hifi thing, you will get a lot of replies.
Make a time capsule; put it into mothballs or suchlike. Keep it to wow your kids.
Not trying to threadjack or anything, but if you ask for people to submit tales of woe of how they wish they never sold some particular hifi thing, you will get a lot of replies.
Make a time capsule; put it into mothballs or suchlike. Keep it to wow your kids.
Too bad you misunderstood me, the fact is the diyaudio bug has bit you, maybe tomorrow, maybe in ten years, you are going to regret selling the two plitron you might have used for this very cool new project you read about somewhere.
I'll tell you what Vincenzo, what's the size of your front panel? I have got an extra front panel I don't know what to do with. It's 15x3x3/8 pretty much the same as the one I posted on the volume control thread I am throwing in the blue acrylic window, too. I am never going to hear from the guy that was supposed to pay for half of this stuff, so I am willing to donate it for free. It will make the front panel much more estetically appealing and wife friendly.
I am in Cambridge, MA.
I'll tell you what Vincenzo, what's the size of your front panel? I have got an extra front panel I don't know what to do with. It's 15x3x3/8 pretty much the same as the one I posted on the volume control thread I am throwing in the blue acrylic window, too. I am never going to hear from the guy that was supposed to pay for half of this stuff, so I am willing to donate it for free. It will make the front panel much more estetically appealing and wife friendly.
I am in Cambridge, MA.
grataku said:
Hi Grataku,
Again, sorry about misinterpreting your original post and intent.
My front panel is a standard 2U style rack mount chassis front. I'm pretty sure it is 19" x 3.5". The chassis itself is 17" wide. But with small added brackets on each side, it might be perfect
I was actually thinking about redesigning the entire chassis/enclosure to make it really nice looking. The only thing
not fantastic about this kit is its external appearance, but with
a new front panel with the LCD enclosed, it'll be much better.
>>I am never going to hear from the guy that was supposed to pay for half of this stuff, so I am willing to donate it for free.
Do you have any entire enclosures with that front panel? If not,
I am still interested in it if you think it will work with my
par-metal chassis (upon adding an extender bracket on each side).
Many thanks!
Vinnie
vinnie822@yahoo.com
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