Cast Aluminum Chassis

Sch3mat1c · 3rd March 2003, 03:49 PM

Here are the photos of the chassis. The left and right sides seem at a higher angle due to the perspective of the scanner. (The angle is necessary to remove the pattern from the mold, and is known as draft angle..)

Top:

Tim

Sch3mat1c · 3rd March 2003, 03:50 PM

The circle in the middle (on both shots) is what's left of the sprue, where the metal is poured in. I'll try pouring in the edges (bottom) instead next time.

The two round holes are for tubes (the pattern has 5/8" holes, I filed them larger here for 3/4" 9-pin sockets), the third, oddly-shaped hole is a casting defect (mold didn't fill completely).

Bottom:

Tim

L Daniel Rosa · 6th March 2003, 02:24 AM

What kind of sand did you use? What binder? My furnace doesn't get hot enough on electricity, so I made a body section for propane. It's curing right now. I don't plan to spend much on specialty ingredients. I haven't even made or acquired flask frames yet. I hope my first casting looks that good. I'm dreading that it'll collapse and not be worth the while to remelt.

Dan

Sch3mat1c · 6th March 2003, 02:43 AM

Hey, a fellow caster!

I used washed silica sand (unknown grit #) and ball clay (ideally should be bentonite, but that's all I could get; seems any clay will work). Mix and mull it until it gets sticky enough, not too moist, not too dry...
The sand really needs more fine particles, that would fill in the surface real good.

Flasks are simple enough, I just nailed together some 1x4s. Don't forget the alignment pins!

If you want your first casting to come out good, then make sure your sand is good, and at least vent the mold a little so you know gas isn't slowing the pour. A common mistake is pouring too cold (I know it's common, I did it all the time

), for aluminum a red salmon glow is the right temperature. (Be careful in daylight, it's easy to miss the glowing - pour about when it's visibly glowing in that case.)
Just remember that you won't learn anything if everything keeps going right. Make mistakes!

Hmm.. obligatory disclaimer: I assume anyone interested in metalcasting understands the risks involved, and how potentially deadly five pounds of liquid metal flying through the air - propelled by as little as a single drop of water - can be.

Tim

Sch3mat1c · 7th March 2003, 10:23 PM

- Is there any interest in these? I can make them in pretty much any dimension, within about 10x10x2.5" for now. (I have a 10x10x2" pattern drying right now, after the varnish dries I'll try casting it and see if I can get it to work well.)

With a little work I should be able to make some nice heatsinks too.

Tim

Ilianh · 8th March 2003, 04:12 AM

Nice work, I like that idea

What temperatures do you use to melt aluminum?

Sch3mat1c · 8th March 2003, 05:05 AM

Thanks!

Melts at around 1200°F (varies a little depending on alloy), pour probably 200 or 300 degrees higher.

Tim

Petter · 8th March 2003, 04:53 PM

I think you should offer a Pass type power amp with heatsinks to the Aleph/AlephX/X100 crowd. Monolithic, strong, inexpensive compared to the alternatives.

Petter

Sch3mat1c · 8th March 2003, 05:03 PM

Is that within 10x10x2.5"?

Tim

faustian bargin · 8th March 2003, 05:19 PM

how about this one from aavid?

it's 0.38°C/W, pretty good. almost good enough for the zen v4 anyway...dunno about the other pass amps.

/andrew - looking for a cheap zen v4 heatsink

8th March 2003, 04:12 AM	#6
Ilianh diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Montreal, Canada	Nice work, I like that idea What temperatures do you use to melt aluminum? __________________ Time is the best teacher; unfortunately, it kills all its students

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6th March 2003, 02:24 AM	#3
L Daniel Rosa diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Bellingham WA	What kind of sand did you use? What binder? My furnace doesn't get hot enough on electricity, so I made a body section for propane. It's curing right now. I don't plan to spend much on specialty ingredients. I haven't even made or acquired flask frames yet. I hope my first casting looks that good. I'm dreading that it'll collapse and not be worth the while to remelt. Dan

6th March 2003, 02:43 AM	#4
Sch3mat1c diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Milwaukee, WI	Hey, a fellow caster! I used washed silica sand (unknown grit #) and ball clay (ideally should be bentonite, but that's all I could get; seems any clay will work). Mix and mull it until it gets sticky enough, not too moist, not too dry... The sand really needs more fine particles, that would fill in the surface real good. Flasks are simple enough, I just nailed together some 1x4s. Don't forget the alignment pins! If you want your first casting to come out good, then make sure your sand is good, and at least vent the mold a little so you know gas isn't slowing the pour. A common mistake is pouring too cold (I know it's common, I did it all the time ), for aluminum a red salmon glow is the right temperature. (Be careful in daylight, it's easy to miss the glowing - pour about when it's visibly glowing in that case.) Just remember that you won't learn anything if everything keeps going right. Make mistakes! Hmm.. obligatory disclaimer: I assume anyone interested in metalcasting understands the risks involved, and how potentially deadly five pounds of liquid metal flying through the air - propelled by as little as a single drop of water - can be. Tim

7th March 2003, 10:23 PM	#5
Sch3mat1c diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Milwaukee, WI	- Is there any interest in these? I can make them in pretty much any dimension, within about 10x10x2.5" for now. (I have a 10x10x2" pattern drying right now, after the varnish dries I'll try casting it and see if I can get it to work well.) With a little work I should be able to make some nice heatsinks too. Tim

8th March 2003, 05:05 AM	#7
Sch3mat1c diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Milwaukee, WI	Thanks! Melts at around 1200°F (varies a little depending on alloy), pour probably 200 or 300 degrees higher. Tim

8th March 2003, 04:53 PM	#8
Petter diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Scandinavia	I think you should offer a Pass type power amp with heatsinks to the Aleph/AlephX/X100 crowd. Monolithic, strong, inexpensive compared to the alternatives. Petter

8th March 2003, 05:03 PM	#9
Sch3mat1c diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Milwaukee, WI	Is that within 10x10x2.5"? Tim

8th March 2003, 05:19 PM	#10
faustian bargin diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: piedmont	how about this one from aavid? it's 0.38°C/W, pretty good. almost good enough for the zen v4 anyway...dunno about the other pass amps. /andrew - looking for a cheap zen v4 heatsink

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