I finished my sonosub today. Its 18" dia, and 78" tall. It has a Dayton 15" Titanic III driver in it. When the Bass is played loud it actually jumps back and forth off the ground. The thing sounds like a jack hammer. I was thinking of pouring a 3" thick concrete round slab the diameter of the sub, and the sub to the slab with a rubber pad under the whole thing. You guys have any ideas?
Thanks Ben
Thanks Ben
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It's a custom Polk SDA-SRS. * MB 6.5's, and 4 tweets, and 1 10" pr's. Thats just a proto for my next which is going to use 16 mids, and 2 morel tweets(maybe) tri amped with 1000 watts per cabinet of Adcom power. Also some bad wire management. Just moved a bunch of stuff today. I am trying different tweeters till I find the ones I like. The polk RDO silks sond best so far. The morel's aren't broken in yet though. New caps, and resistors in the crossover. Also I didn't put any sound deadening in the tube when I built it. I was told I don't need it. they were wrong.
May as well make the ballast useful. add some MDF layers to both end plates, dont crowd the port or the driver(s).
I'd worry about the stability of the thing with adding too much mass to the top.
Perhaps 4 external braces beween the two end plates. extend these down past the bottom to become the legs, give it say three inches more height.
Go with the round concrete slab, Add a little peak in the middle if you like, it won't do much but will look quite serious.
Place the whole thing over the new round slab, stick the 4 bits of timber to the base slab somehow (I'd cast a couple of bolts into it)
With the 4 bits of wood varnished it would look quite neat.
You may need to damp the external braces, this can be done later with a toilet roll jammed in the gap until you find the best spot.
deep pile carpet wrapped around the sonotube will help too. Shagadelic even.
I'd worry about the stability of the thing with adding too much mass to the top.
Perhaps 4 external braces beween the two end plates. extend these down past the bottom to become the legs, give it say three inches more height.
Go with the round concrete slab, Add a little peak in the middle if you like, it won't do much but will look quite serious.
Place the whole thing over the new round slab, stick the 4 bits of timber to the base slab somehow (I'd cast a couple of bolts into it)
With the 4 bits of wood varnished it would look quite neat.
You may need to damp the external braces, this can be done later with a toilet roll jammed in the gap until you find the best spot.
deep pile carpet wrapped around the sonotube will help too. Shagadelic even.
If you can find something like this in your area, then wrap a few square feet of this around it. Great damping and heavy as ....! Then cover it in carpet to disguise it (looks like rough vinly flooring).
Second option. Instead of just having the wooden blocks on the floor, bolt them onto a concrete slab (or for SAF, a slab of marble). Heavy, and all the weight is at the bottom.
Third option. Build a pretty 'box' to sit at the bottom 2 feet of the tube and fill it full of sand. Looks pretty (if you do it right), will be heavy and preserves the chimney look of your speaker.
Fourth option. Turn it upside down and load the ceiling
!
Second option. Instead of just having the wooden blocks on the floor, bolt them onto a concrete slab (or for SAF, a slab of marble). Heavy, and all the weight is at the bottom.
Third option. Build a pretty 'box' to sit at the bottom 2 feet of the tube and fill it full of sand. Looks pretty (if you do it right), will be heavy and preserves the chimney look of your speaker.
Fourth option. Turn it upside down and load the ceiling
!
Some good suggestions given here. My first sub had the driver and a PR mounted at opposite ends of a sonotube. It was built to be a coffee table, so the sonotube was horizontal. It used to walk all over the floor!
I've since rebuilt it into a box with the driver facing down and the PR forward. But now it rocks (literally)!!
I've since rebuilt it into a box with the driver facing down and the PR forward. But now it rocks (literally)!!
it has what looks like approx 3 inch legs.
Looks like enough breathing room to me. It's the high velocity cone that would be the biggest force moving it.
A simple way to check is to turn it up the other way and see if it still walks.
Sonotube is pretty light. needs more mass I'm sure. (will make it harder to steal too)
Looks like enough breathing room to me. It's the high velocity cone that would be the biggest force moving it.
A simple way to check is to turn it up the other way and see if it still walks.
Sonotube is pretty light. needs more mass I'm sure. (will make it harder to steal too)
It does have 3" legs on it. My buddy has a machine shop next door, and he is going to cut some 3" pieces of stainless for the legs to attach the bottom plate, and some 6" pieces for the top. I know this will definitely help. I do like the idea of some heavy carpet to wrap the tube with for dampening, and weight. I have to get back to work.
Thanks Guys
Ben
Thanks Guys
Ben
" ... it has what looks like approx 3 inch legs. Looks like enough breathing room to me. ..."
" ... It does have 3" legs on it. ..."
I advise a much bigger gap at the bottom. Can you put some bricks under each leg and see ??
( Considering that a couple hundred watts can approach 1/3 of a horse power, concentrated at bottom opening (and at top, alternately at the primary resonance frequency) ... should be enough power to lift it off the floor ... delivered at 650+ miles per hour (speed of sound) , that 15" cone diameter might push enough air out the bottom to create a big pressure differential ... ! ... yes, just like a jack hammer ... )
" ... It does have 3" legs on it. ..."
I advise a much bigger gap at the bottom. Can you put some bricks under each leg and see ??
( Considering that a couple hundred watts can approach 1/3 of a horse power, concentrated at bottom opening (and at top, alternately at the primary resonance frequency) ... should be enough power to lift it off the floor ... delivered at 650+ miles per hour (speed of sound) , that 15" cone diameter might push enough air out the bottom to create a big pressure differential ... ! ... yes, just like a jack hammer ... )
I use that conversion calculator Widget for the Apple Dashboard ... consider that ~ 750 Watts = 1 Horse Power, then ~ 250 watts = 1/3 Horse Power ... the work needed to lift a weight vertically against gravity by one horse ...
RE: http://www.apple.com/downloads/dashboard/ ... lots of cool calculating toys
RE: http://www.apple.com/downloads/dashboard/ ... lots of cool calculating toys
OK I got the bottom plate on it now, and some foam tape. I know its kinda ghetto but I had some tape that you use when you mount a cap on a pickup. I covered about 70% of the plates surface. It stopped the jack hammer noise, and tightened things up a bit. now I need to get some time to hear some music.
Thanks for the link Eddy I love stuff like that
Ben
Thanks for the link Eddy I love stuff like that
Ben
Lame pre for sub control. The HK would work nice with powered sub amps that have built in crossovers, but not for straight amps. Curve was very disappointing. I think my port is way to short!
10-68
15-80
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30-93
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Given that this is in room, in a corner I do realize that there are acoustics involved, but the low dip sucks. 10-25hz
10-68
15-80
20-84
20-84
25-86
30-93
35-95
40-95
45-96
50-90
55-92
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200-71
220-72
240-68
260-64
300-70
Given that this is in room, in a corner I do realize that there are acoustics involved, but the low dip sucks. 10-25hz
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