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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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I'm new so, Hi everyone.
Im using a pair of Seas P25REXDD as drivers in my subs, and I recently made an effort to improve tightness by installing a longer port in my old cabinets. What has happened is that I got an improvement in tightness, but at the same time I had what appears to be a peak somwhere in the lower regions. I'm wondering if this peak comes from the box being more of a closed cabinet as I increased the port length and that the peak could be the resonance point the setup would have if I removed the port. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how I should proceed? I wish to keep the tightness and get rid of the peak in an easy and cheap way. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
Sounds like the pipe's long enough for its 1/2 WL harmonics to become audible, which will require some form of damping, lowering output a bit in the process. It may be better to revert to the original vent length and damp it as required to 'kill two birds with one stone'. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#3 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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While I certainly can't compare with GM's knowledge, when the bass sounds loose or chuffey, I say "put a sock in it" I think he's correct in suggesting reverting to the original port and damping it.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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LOL! That was my first response, but decided it was too flippant!
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Try reverting to the original port and lining it (not blocking it) with foam. Usually need an oblong around 8mm / 3/8" thick x 3(diam) x length. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Okay, so what seems to be the general opinion is that I should revert to my old pipe, and increase the amount of damping I use.
Hmm.... I was thinking more along the line of putting a notch filter on it to dampen the peak. I seem to get a good frequency response except for this peak wich colours the bass range. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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If I am not mistaken your driver has a Qts of 0.44, which in BR would need a BIG box, to avoid peaking ... and with xo above 40hz, and additional room gain ..... who knows what might happen
Question is ... how low can you push a driver like this, without loss of control |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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The more I reengage in this project the more I remember how I thought when the subs came to be in the first place. The box size is around 60l wich is optimal for this driver in a closed box application, but then after a while I added a vent just to see what happened.
Without the extra amplifier, and the added output level the problems I experience now weren't that noticeable. They are now however..... Ugh. Perhaps I should plan for a new cabinet. The ones I have now are ugly anyway.( Extremely ugly according to some.) Are the Seas drivers I have worth the effort, anyone? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Have you experimented enough with level and xo settings ?
What kind of subamps do you have ? Which music do you play mostly, and at which level ? What are your expectations ? What are your main speakers and amp ? Do you play analogue records or only CDs ? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
Don't have the specs for the P25REXDD, only the P25REX, but assuming it's fairly close it's suitable for either a MLTL or pipe horn sub if you can tolerate the size. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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