Sub for Full range horns

Phergus_25 · 12th March 2007, 05:16 AM

I recently made a pair of Austin A126s, and I have yet to do measurments, but in thinking about adding a sub of some sort. I would like to use the speakers natural roll off and only crossover the sub. And suggestions as to what works best with fullranges?
-greg

zobsky · 13th March 2007, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Phergus_25
I recently made a pair of Austin A126s, and I have yet to do measurments, but in thinking about adding a sub of some sort. I would like to use the speakers natural roll off and only crossover the sub. And suggestions as to what works best with fullranges?
-greg

a horn sub works well for back loaded full-ranges.

Phergus_25 · 13th March 2007, 09:48 PM

Any good ones around. Im having a hard time getting through the threads to find waht is decided upon to be good.
-greg

Phergus_25 · 15th March 2007, 02:28 PM

I was directed to the Autohorn, but im afraid that it might not go low enough. Any othr suggeestions or experiance with the auto horn?
-greg

Ray Collins · 15th March 2007, 03:13 PM

Zobsky,
Which Horn Subs are you using and which do you recommend?
Thanks

Ray

zobsky · 15th March 2007, 03:38 PM

For what its worth, I use an autotuba currently with a set of line arrays. Good to around 30 Hz. I used to use (and still have) a 12" ported adire shiva tuned to 17Hz but that simply isn't efficient enough for an efficient set of speakers. It also doesn't seem to match "tonally" . I tried the same shiva in a sealed enclosuree but just didn't like the sound.

YMMV

RobWells · 15th March 2007, 10:03 PM

The 'usual suspects' for horn subs are the labhorns or the Bill Fitzmaurice stuff (tubas).

You need to work out if you have enough space for horn subs as they're not small.

If space is an issue maybe try the punishers down to 40hz and use something more conventional for the bottom octaves.

Rob.

planet10 · 16th March 2007, 06:53 AM

We have been building push-push Extremis subs... 1 per side is nicest. The extended range makes them easier to integrate... with room gain, the vented enclosure (pushing aperiodic) gets them into the mid 20s. 2 fit in a 16-17" cube (but we use lots of shapes)

dave

Ray Collins · 16th March 2007, 07:31 AM

Dave,
I considered the apex Jr. push-push sub several weeks ago but it was too small for my application because they needed to do double duty as sofa end tables in my small HT (13'x14' room). I had all but decided to build a pair of single driver 12" or 15" sealed subs probably using the Dayton RS series drivers when I saw your new Extremis based design. Tell me about your new design and its suitability for my application.

Ray

planet10 · 16th March 2007, 07:58 AM

Here's a start ...

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...ube-woofer.pdf

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...mis-woofer.pdf

12th March 2007, 05:16 AM	#1
Phergus_25 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2006	Sub for Full range horns I recently made a pair of Austin A126s, and I have yet to do measurments, but in thinking about adding a sub of some sort. I would like to use the speakers natural roll off and only crossover the sub. And suggestions as to what works best with fullranges? -greg

15th March 2007, 03:38 PM	#6
zobsky diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx, USA	For what its worth, I use an autotuba currently with a set of line arrays. Good to around 30 Hz. I used to use (and still have) a 12" ported adire shiva tuned to 17Hz but that simply isn't efficient enough for an efficient set of speakers. It also doesn't seem to match "tonally" . I tried the same shiva in a sealed enclosuree but just didn't like the sound. YMMV __________________ "Any fool can know. The point is to understand" - Albert Einstein

16th March 2007, 06:53 AM	#8
planet10 frugal-phile(tm) diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III Blog Entries: 4	We have been building push-push Extremis subs... 1 per side is nicest. The extended range makes them easier to integrate... with room gain, the vented enclosure (pushing aperiodic) gets them into the mid 20s. 2 fit in a 16-17" cube (but we use lots of shapes) dave __________________ community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA

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13th March 2007, 09:48 PM	#3
Phergus_25 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2006	Any good ones around. Im having a hard time getting through the threads to find waht is decided upon to be good. -greg

15th March 2007, 02:28 PM	#4
Phergus_25 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2006	I was directed to the Autohorn, but im afraid that it might not go low enough. Any othr suggeestions or experiance with the auto horn? -greg

15th March 2007, 03:13 PM	#5
Ray Collins diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Mobile, Al.	Zobsky, Which Horn Subs are you using and which do you recommend? Thanks Ray

15th March 2007, 10:03 PM	#7
RobWells diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: UK	The 'usual suspects' for horn subs are the labhorns or the Bill Fitzmaurice stuff (tubas). You need to work out if you have enough space for horn subs as they're not small. If space is an issue maybe try the punishers down to 40hz and use something more conventional for the bottom octaves. Rob.

16th March 2007, 07:31 AM	#9
Ray Collins diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Mobile, Al.	Dave, I considered the apex Jr. push-push sub several weeks ago but it was too small for my application because they needed to do double duty as sofa end tables in my small HT (13'x14' room). I had all but decided to build a pair of single driver 12" or 15" sealed subs probably using the Dayton RS series drivers when I saw your new Extremis based design. Tell me about your new design and its suitability for my application. Ray

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