@ screamers
It has been said that the wavelengths we are dealing with are so big that they do not see the corners, so I'd keep it simple with respect to the reflectors. It is a sub - so unless we're talking dimensions far larger than the cabinet you described - I do not really see a benefit to the extra work. Put them in where you can see them - if you want to bother. I used my corner bracing for reinforcing the mouth area on build #1 as it flexed a bit. Jim kept his cabinets dead simple with respect to corner treatments and bracing and banged out 4 cabinets in a day.
I'd spend time on bracing first, aesthetics second. Assuming you're building with PL and brad nails, the visible joints might get a little ugly when the glue cures. Nothing a few minutes with a utility knife or chisel can't fix.
I'll be honest - that is as far as I have taken any of my horn or TH cabinets - I am still "prototyping" so I do not bother with paint/stain/varnish/duratex.
It has been said that the wavelengths we are dealing with are so big that they do not see the corners, so I'd keep it simple with respect to the reflectors. It is a sub - so unless we're talking dimensions far larger than the cabinet you described - I do not really see a benefit to the extra work. Put them in where you can see them - if you want to bother. I used my corner bracing for reinforcing the mouth area on build #1 as it flexed a bit. Jim kept his cabinets dead simple with respect to corner treatments and bracing and banged out 4 cabinets in a day.
I'd spend time on bracing first, aesthetics second. Assuming you're building with PL and brad nails, the visible joints might get a little ugly when the glue cures. Nothing a few minutes with a utility knife or chisel can't fix.
I'll be honest - that is as far as I have taken any of my horn or TH cabinets - I am still "prototyping" so I do not bother with paint/stain/varnish/duratex.
Email me and I'll send you a free little converter program. It does all units.aceinc said:Or those durn furiner's should learn to measure the way god intended.
I'm on the downward slope of 50, and learning a new measuring system is painful, remember I said I was lazy. I will see if the old Lowes-Depot has a dual scale tape measure.
Paul
http://depot.com/Tools-468240-B000C..._Foot_InchMetric_Scale_Power_Tape_Yellow.html
The 16' one is $1 more.
The 16' one is $1 more.
We in Canada had metric shoved down our throats decades ago now but I still prefer to use english measurements with woodworking and with steel. Cubic feet are a breeze but I especially have trouble with cubic litres for volume measurements. Hmmm let's see...that is a volume of space apparently surounded by the dimensions 1 litre x 1 litre x 1 litre. 
I must be in good company because dual scale tape measures are the norm here in Canada. They have both English measurements as well as French.
I must be in good company because dual scale tape measures are the norm here in Canada. They have both English measurements as well as French.
AndrewT said:
But dB SPL is also a volume measurement associated with speakers. So confusing eh?! I think I need a 1 meter tape measure calibrated in dB's. Use would be simple, just read the meter.
FYI, the utilities in Canada sell electricity now in a metric measurement. Electricity is sold by the meter.
I'd better go do something productive now.
Hi Paul,
Yes, I meant the 10" Titanic.
Several people have said good things about the Dayton WT3 Woofer Tester from Parts Express. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=390-804
You said: "I was looking at the folded Eminence Lab 12 design by Don Snyder, and saw that tupaki built one with a different driver..."
I've built two Tapped Horns, one using the Lab12, and one using the KappaLite 3015LF. I have published plans for 5 Tapped Horns in this forum. Chris built my Lab12 folding of MaVo's sim, and tupaki built my Definimax folding of MikeHunt's/Cowan's design. The Lab12 horn is larger, lower and louder, the Definimax is much more portable.
Yes, I meant the 10" Titanic.
Several people have said good things about the Dayton WT3 Woofer Tester from Parts Express. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=390-804
You said: "I was looking at the folded Eminence Lab 12 design by Don Snyder, and saw that tupaki built one with a different driver..."
I've built two Tapped Horns, one using the Lab12, and one using the KappaLite 3015LF. I have published plans for 5 Tapped Horns in this forum. Chris built my Lab12 folding of MaVo's sim, and tupaki built my Definimax folding of MikeHunt's/Cowan's design. The Lab12 horn is larger, lower and louder, the Definimax is much more portable.
Eminence HL-10C
Has anyone here came up with any Tapped Horn models for the Eminence HL-10C?
www.eminence.com/pdf/hl-10c.pdf
I messed around for about an hour and for the life of me I can't get anything reasonable looking out of this driver. The Fs is 44Hz, it has lots of linear Xmax, nice strong motor and cone structure. It would be a shame if it really is unusable in a Tapped Horn.
A few things that I have tried: I tried a compression chamber from Vtc = 0 thru 9800cc, Le = 1.6mH thru 10mH, Mmd = 102g thru 150g, S1 = 25cm^2 thru 500cm^2.
I just can't seem to make this thing work. Anyone else tried working with this driver?
Rgs, JLH
Has anyone here came up with any Tapped Horn models for the Eminence HL-10C?
www.eminence.com/pdf/hl-10c.pdf
I messed around for about an hour and for the life of me I can't get anything reasonable looking out of this driver. The Fs is 44Hz, it has lots of linear Xmax, nice strong motor and cone structure. It would be a shame if it really is unusable in a Tapped Horn.
A few things that I have tried: I tried a compression chamber from Vtc = 0 thru 9800cc, Le = 1.6mH thru 10mH, Mmd = 102g thru 150g, S1 = 25cm^2 thru 500cm^2.
I just can't seem to make this thing work. Anyone else tried working with this driver?
Rgs, JLH
I have a couple HL-10c's that are currently living in a dual front loaded horn box. It performs okay, really needed multiples but since they have discontinuned the driver, that plan seems unlikely. So I really wanted to see how they'd do in tapped horns, because apparently they can do better in one-offs.
Went through many designs, like you JLH.
-Using two drivers in parallel helped response. Maybe not the most economical way to "make this driver work" but since I already have two they're free to me. You can probably do better with cheaper if you're starting from scratch.
-The HL-10c always wanted a really high compression ratio. I wanted it to be 3:1 or better, so I tried to aim for that as a goal. Could it do more? Not sure... question for the members here I guess.
-The lower compression ratio always came out with a big "U" looking response, and there was nothing I could do about it, until I read on this thread someone posted a LAB 12 design with altered Le using a Parts Express inductor. I tried playing with the Le and voila the nasty u shaped response seemed to go away.
See attached hornresp input. I really don't know how you'd apply the extra Le, I imagine it would go something like adding a 4.7mH coil in series with each woofer coil, then all that paralleled together (PE has a 700 toroidial coil that is 4.7mH). Again, if you add the cost of two drivers and two coils, then you could have had a fairly nice expensive driver that would probably do the same thing.
Other thing you will note is that I have added 10g to the Mmd because I had to glue the dustcaps back on after a "limiterless incident".
Went through many designs, like you JLH.
-Using two drivers in parallel helped response. Maybe not the most economical way to "make this driver work" but since I already have two they're free to me. You can probably do better with cheaper if you're starting from scratch.
-The HL-10c always wanted a really high compression ratio. I wanted it to be 3:1 or better, so I tried to aim for that as a goal. Could it do more? Not sure... question for the members here I guess.
-The lower compression ratio always came out with a big "U" looking response, and there was nothing I could do about it, until I read on this thread someone posted a LAB 12 design with altered Le using a Parts Express inductor. I tried playing with the Le and voila the nasty u shaped response seemed to go away.
See attached hornresp input. I really don't know how you'd apply the extra Le, I imagine it would go something like adding a 4.7mH coil in series with each woofer coil, then all that paralleled together (PE has a 700 toroidial coil that is 4.7mH). Again, if you add the cost of two drivers and two coils, then you could have had a fairly nice expensive driver that would probably do the same thing.
Other thing you will note is that I have added 10g to the Mmd because I had to glue the dustcaps back on after a "limiterless incident".
Attachments
So I have read most of this thread
(minus a few of the middle pages) and most of the other TH threads in different forums. One thing I haven't noticed is anyone designing a pure sub sonic T-horn. I am talking strictly below 40 Hz.
So something designed where 40-50 Hz would be the TOP end.
(minus a few of the middle pages) and most of the other TH threads in different forums. One thing I haven't noticed is anyone designing a pure sub sonic T-horn. I am talking strictly below 40 Hz.
So something designed where 40-50 Hz would be the TOP end.
FlipC said:
I have some designs on paper that belong in the Travis Pastrana Nitro Circus. They are all too big to build unless it ends up being a permanent install. Hitting +130dB at 10Hz is no problem with enough Sd and power.
Rgs, JLH
P.S. I can hear GM licking his chops to fire off some insane sims.
