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Old 6th March 2007, 07:08 PM   #11
brox is offline brox  United States
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The box looks exactly like the one in the link but the dimensions are different, mine are taller and a little deeper, but otherwise almost identical. However, mine are passive whereas the newer versions are powered.

I haven't pulled out the foam to listen test the difference in sound. Forgive my ignorance, but what would a box with no foam/dampening sound like compared to a box that is dampened?
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Old 6th March 2007, 08:17 PM   #12
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" ... what would a box with no foam/dampening sound like ..."

I have that Pyle driver mentioned above in a very old, sealed "ready made" BSR subwoofer box that has no stuffing at all and I sure like the sound = very tight bass, no apparent distortion or "spikey" response curve ... 'course I'm driving it from only 150 watts (capable of 1K, says so in the Pyle hype).
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Old 11th March 2007, 09:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by FastEddy
Cheap and reliable ... http://www.justwoofers.com/Woofer_Pa...Pyle_PL-BL.htm

I have one of these 12 inchers in a sealed ~ 5 cuft sealed box driven by aussieamplifiers.com MOSFET 400 watt modules (from active low pass crossover ~ 100 Htz.) and can report a very tight response, solid bass. I chose these "road worthy" el cheapo's 'cause I didn't want my nieces and nephews crankin' 'er up and blowing it out = can't happen.

&

Other models: http://www.justwoofers.com/Woofer_Pa.../pyle_main.htm

(Cal is right though ... the best 10" sub is 15")
Car drivers usually aren't that good for HT. Also, that site doesn't list freq. responses for the drivers, which concerns me.
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Old 11th March 2007, 12:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by brox
However, mine are passive whereas the newer versions are powered.
Hi,
The current Triad Inwall subs are also passive - with the appropriate amp being rack mounted.

You could always follow triads own example and use some Peerless XLS 10" drivers (as I believe they do now), they should provide a bit more excursion and headroom than the older units.
They might need a bit of EQ to get them flat to 20hz though (Triad's amps give the option of using EQ boost or not).

Paul.
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Old 11th March 2007, 04:16 PM   #15
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" ... that site doesn't list freq. responses for the drivers, which concerns me. ..."

And thst is not necessarily a liability. You can roll your own response curve with a pink noise generator and a cheap 'scope and/or a cheap SPL meter once installed in your box. The "better" drivers do have published response curves, but the results vary widely when installed in DIY boxes and room placements.

Orginal thread Q&A: " ... feed each 10 with about 400 watts/rms and I want subs that I can drive HARD and LOW with little to no distortion ..." ... The response curve being secondary to reliability and reduced distrotion ??
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Old 12th March 2007, 08:53 PM   #16
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Why hasn't anyone mentioned this 10in Vifa MA26WR09-04? Too expensive?

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind...14955&pid=1808
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Old 12th March 2007, 09:42 PM   #17
brox is offline brox  United States
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Thank you all for your input!

I am possibly considering modifying 2 of the 4 boxes to hold 12 inch subs and leaving the other 2 for 10 inch subs. Assuming the new speakers are matched properly to the box size, does anyone see any problem with this? I would use the same brand of speaker just 2 10's and 2 12's.......
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Old 14th March 2007, 07:40 AM   #18
AAaF is offline AAaF  Norway
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Just to mention it before you buy drivers; If you have the sufficient power, max SPL in a closed box is entirely given by cone area and maximum stroke for the driver. So XLS/XXLS is good choices.

But there are several versions of XLS/XXLS. My suggestion for you is to connect the two coils of each XXLS 830847 (12") in series and then again connect the four drivers in paralell. Then you end up with total of 4 ohm nominal and 2,5 ohm minimum. Then your amp won't be tortured:-) Max linear SPL is then 106dB at 20Hz, and max SPL before mechanical breakdown is ca.111dB at 20Hz. What power you need for theese levels is depending of your box volume. If you have 50ltr to each driver you will need a amp of 250W/4ohm for 106dB and 900W/4 ohm for 111dB. Last value is only theoretical with no compression in driver. You will probably need some more power to destroy it.

This was for 20Hz. At 40Hz you'll have 10dB more with only about 2/3 of the excursion.
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Old 19th June 2014, 09:34 PM   #19
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SOOOO.....!!???? What did you end up doing? 7 years later I'm assuming you've made a decision!! Hahaha
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Old 20th June 2014, 01:44 AM   #20
JLH is offline JLH  United States
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The Dayton Audio UM10-22 10" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer at Parts Express is hard to beat.
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