bludbunny said:
Greets!
You're welcome!
Don't know, not familiar with any of the car audio offerings since they are relatively poor performers in many HIFI apps.
Drivers with low Vas to fit in small cabs tend not to work well in vented alignments except horns and a TL large enough to go to 30 Hz with any authority will need to be large regardless of driver used.
GM
Greets!
Yes, it's a horn and as you can see it has a lot more gain in the mid-bass, but due to all the folding and the need to place it on the floor and preferably in a corner, your mains will need to be digitally delayed and the distance between it and the mains may be great enough for there to be an audible dip in the response between the two.
GM
Yes, it's a horn and as you can see it has a lot more gain in the mid-bass, but due to all the folding and the need to place it on the floor and preferably in a corner, your mains will need to be digitally delayed and the distance between it and the mains may be great enough for there to be an audible dip in the response between the two.
GM
Greets!
Tall, square or rectangular sealed column with the driver near/at the top based on how high your desktop is and the vent at the bottom like this except with different dims: http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project03/FE-208_Drawing.pdf
If the sub is squeezed between the desk and wall, then the vent can be either front or side mounted. WRT W x D dims, the driver's depth will determine its depth and if the driver has a rear vent, then you'll need at least a one diameter of this vent 'breathing' gap, so divide this distance into 91.44 to get the width, rounding up as required.
GM
Tall, square or rectangular sealed column with the driver near/at the top based on how high your desktop is and the vent at the bottom like this except with different dims: http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project03/FE-208_Drawing.pdf
If the sub is squeezed between the desk and wall, then the vent can be either front or side mounted. WRT W x D dims, the driver's depth will determine its depth and if the driver has a rear vent, then you'll need at least a one diameter of this vent 'breathing' gap, so divide this distance into 91.44 to get the width, rounding up as required.
GM
The box will need to be much more than just 4" deep, the driver alone is about 6".
I am currently building a sub for a friend who has 4 of these (the 8" venom) - so far the best Ive come up with is 35L ported tuned to about 32hz, in isobarik pairs. f3 is going to be around 35hz (which is fine considering there is not much music content below that, for movies 20hz is desirable though)
If I was doing a TL (again), I would mount the driver close to the floor (as well as the exit), to get more room gain. But ultimately for the size of cabinet a TL is not worth it for this driver.
I am also working on a sealed design uisng the Jaycar CS2366 - now that is quite a tasty driver!
I am currently building a sub for a friend who has 4 of these (the 8" venom) - so far the best Ive come up with is 35L ported tuned to about 32hz, in isobarik pairs. f3 is going to be around 35hz (which is fine considering there is not much music content below that, for movies 20hz is desirable though)
If I was doing a TL (again), I would mount the driver close to the floor (as well as the exit), to get more room gain. But ultimately for the size of cabinet a TL is not worth it for this driver.
I am also working on a sealed design uisng the Jaycar CS2366 - now that is quite a tasty driver!
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