Building Audiophile Sub with Peerless's XXLS 830845
It's been a while now since I first hooked up at this forum but I never had an active roll in it since I'm a newbie on DIY's!
I've just purchased an 830845 Peerless XXLS Sub-Driver for a sealed application.
I’m thinking on using a Qtc value of 0, 62 meaning that I will be obliged to go for an aprox. 100 liter box, since the main purpose of this subwoofer is to play in an audiophile stereo system and/or a 5.1 application to play mainly music concerts!
I would like to have any kind of input from this community that would help me to make the right decisions to achieve the best possible sub application with this driver.
I was also thinking on using a Rythmik Audio - A370-Special Edition (SE) and a Linkwitz Riley Transform for my application.
Since this is a non-servo setup (I would prefer if it would be a Servo application but I don't know how I could implement such a setup), I'm a little concerned with de max excursion of the drive and with the clipping of the amp. Any suggestions?
I really would like to know your opinions and suggestions for my little project.
I am a relative noob as well.... so take my post as such. If your sub is a non-servo (which it is) you would not be able to convert it into one. I think this is what you asked. Anywhooo, here is a link to an article that may serve your purposes. BTW, great sub you got there. Critical Q Subwoofer
Remember this is for an Audiophile (stereo) and not HT subwoofer build. Personaly I think it would work well for a HT too.
Not even a small comment?
C'mon. You know how this works......
What will you power this with?
How many watts?
Plate amp or seperate? from B bridged?
If you didn't have this stuff figerd out already why did you buy the driver???:smash:
Did you read that link I posted to?
I Already knew about this "Critical Q Subwoofer" Project and it's really interesting but I must be honest with you, I'm a little concerned with the excursion limit of the cone and that it might bottom out since for now It's not my intention to build another HT sub!
But how can I solve this problem... I'm really not in the mood of being always looking at the cone's displacement and if it's too big when I'm watching a movie.
Is it that critical? Maybe if I pointed the system Q to a 0, 6 or so would it be a good compromise between audiophile sub-frequencies and movie blasting sub-freq.?
What is your opinion on this sub (12" XXLS) comparing to Peeress’s XLS 12”?
One thing is for sure, I'm thinking on implementing the Linkwitz Transform to this baby to optimize its curve.
PS: I apologize for my bad writing in English. It's been quite a while since I've written anything in English. Left Canada some years now.
I used the 10" version, the 830843, but his will give you a few ideas ...
Seems a Nice Project... Thanks for sharing it!
well... any more comments?
I would Like to know if anyone can help e with the LT circuit for this specific sub (Peerless 12" xxls - 830845) with th Ruthmik Audio A370 Plate amp?
I'm considering on purchasing rithmyk's plate amp and chaging it's RC values to achieve a better set for my sub.
I've made some plots and I've come up with a 110,6 L sealed box!
Is'nt it a box too big?
I´d suggest a completely different style of cabinet--- a dipolar one.
The high Qts-Versions of the Peerless are quite well suited for this application and it has the advantage of lowering the Fs even more and featurung extremely small cabinet dimension.
Besides that, the sonical reproduction quality is very high. Dipoles don´t boom, but deliver some of the most precise, natural and ´fast´ Bass You can get.
One drawback is that You need a lot of diaphragm area and longthrow capability to gain serious SPLs. Just one driver will be enough for music that´s played well above normal conditions, but with 2 drivers You´ll have more than sufficient reserve even for Homecinema.
Cabinet: 36*36*36cm (14.2"*14.22*14.2" or ~48Liters)
SPLmax,1m: @20Hz @15Vrms: ~100dB
@30Hz @25Vrms: ~109dB
@40Hz @40Vrms: ~114dB
You further need a passive correction network, consisting of 2 coils and one Cap that linearizes the sub to ~ +-1dB between 26Hz and 160Hz (nearfield).
A active Subsonic-filter is recommended. A basslift shouldn´t be necessary in most rooms, but could be added for ´Fun-mode` ;)
Calvin: How did you reach your box size and other essentials such as box shape (form)? Are there software that handles dipole subs? Have you seen Linkwitz "Phoenix" (spelling?) dipole sub at http://www.linkwitzlab.com? (I hope the link is correct, my DNS server play tricks just now so I am unable to check)
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