Looking to build a couple of outdoor weatherproof subs to complement my outdoor (mini) speakers. Not expecting high end, just cheap, decent sounding. reliable and easy to build.
Home Depot sells some inexpensive plastic barrels (they are about 18" diameter and 22" deep, IIRC) designed to hold sump pumps; they seem to have fairly low resonance and could be braced if need be. However, they are about 3.25 cubic feet.
I'd like to use woofers such as this - they are inexpensive and have high power handling. The specs are here.
Now, I don't know much about building speakers, but I know enough that you can't just shove a driver in a box and expect it to sound good (I always get a laugh out of the sellers on ebay who replace the OEM woofers in the speakers they're selling with some generic junk or car subs, and then say it sounds much better than the originals). I've looked at some of the speaker design software on the net, but it all seems to be designed to allow you to build a box to match a driver, not take a driver and a box and try to get them to work together.
So can anyone make some suggestions regarding this project? Is trying to get a particular driver to work with a prebuilt enclosure a losing proposition?
Thanks.
Home Depot sells some inexpensive plastic barrels (they are about 18" diameter and 22" deep, IIRC) designed to hold sump pumps; they seem to have fairly low resonance and could be braced if need be. However, they are about 3.25 cubic feet.
I'd like to use woofers such as this - they are inexpensive and have high power handling. The specs are here.
Now, I don't know much about building speakers, but I know enough that you can't just shove a driver in a box and expect it to sound good (I always get a laugh out of the sellers on ebay who replace the OEM woofers in the speakers they're selling with some generic junk or car subs, and then say it sounds much better than the originals). I've looked at some of the speaker design software on the net, but it all seems to be designed to allow you to build a box to match a driver, not take a driver and a box and try to get them to work together.
So can anyone make some suggestions regarding this project? Is trying to get a particular driver to work with a prebuilt enclosure a losing proposition?
Thanks.
Odd, it works for me, just tried it in Opera, Firefox and Internet Explorer...and on two different computers on two different networks.
http://pyleaudio.com/manuals/PLMRW10-12.pdf
http://pyleaudio.com/manuals/PLMRW10-12.pdf
Strange. It works fine if I copy and paste but not click.
Anyway, have you read the literature and come to any conclusions or have questions about vented sealed or bandpass? We can't tell you what sounds good to you, that's why all the variations exist.
Don't get too exicted about the Pyle power spec's. Take the 600w and subtract, oh, say 500 and you'll probably be more accurate. Don't worry though, it will still be enough.
If that barrel enclosure doesn't suit, then find something else. Don't be afraid to experiment.
Anyway, have you read the literature and come to any conclusions or have questions about vented sealed or bandpass? We can't tell you what sounds good to you, that's why all the variations exist.
Don't get too exicted about the Pyle power spec's. Take the 600w and subtract, oh, say 500 and you'll probably be more accurate. Don't worry though, it will still be enough.
If that barrel enclosure doesn't suit, then find something else. Don't be afraid to experiment.
Well, I appreciate your response, but honestly, I can't afford to experiment - I don't have the time (all my "free" time this winter has gone into rewiring and renovating my house, building my home theater, and this spring I will be building the deck I mentioned earlier). I was hoping to just find someone familiar enough with T-S parameters to make a reasonable suggestion regarding port size in this enclosure, if it's possible. I can even do sealed, if that will work, but I can't afford to spend money and time (mostly the latter) if it's not going to work out.
I don't want to make this sound like I am "owed" an answer; I know that this is a hobbyist messageboard...but if someone can come up with an answer, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks...
I don't want to make this sound like I am "owed" an answer; I know that this is a hobbyist messageboard...but if someone can come up with an answer, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks...
Hi,
I was afraid that cut off was only happening on mine as I was having troubles before.
I'm also unable to get the speaker box calculator to work here so I can't help till I sort this out.
The best I could get was a sealed 31 litre with an Fc of 52 Hz but I'm not sure it's working properly right now. I will check back later. Do you have a box calculator?
I was afraid that cut off was only happening on mine as I was having troubles before.
I'm also unable to get the speaker box calculator to work here so I can't help till I sort this out.
The best I could get was a sealed 31 litre with an Fc of 52 Hz but I'm not sure it's working properly right now. I will check back later. Do you have a box calculator?
If you want something fool proof just go sealed, it doesn't matter if those plastic drums are "too large", people use subs in infinite baffle all the time with good success, those subs have a high enough Qts to get away with throwing them in any old big sealed enclosure and still get acceptable results, it'll never sound "bad", especially if you use some polyester or loose fiberglass fill in the enclosure.
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