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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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JL's Gotham sub has a 4500W amplifier. If you want to make those heavy cones dance, you're going to need some heavyweight amps. That said, TAS has liked every JL sub they've reviewed. But subs are about more than the driver involved -- they're about room integration and enclosure design.
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If it works, but you don't know why it works, then you haven't done any engineering. Taterworks Audio (nothing for sale) |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
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Quote:
For 12K retail..... and the review I found said "peak power of 3800W for short periods" I guess I'm a little out of touch, but for God's sake, buy a 500$ sub, a 500$ processor/EQ, drop 1000$ into an amp, then remodel the room to take care of your real accoustic issues with the other 10 grand and you'll probably have better sound. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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I just finished building a 10W7 home theatre subwoofer and it turned out amazing. I made a mistake at first by putting it in a sealed enclosure... this may be fine for the larger 12" or 13" models, but the 10" had rather limited output. I then went the vented route... wow... what a difference... im not even pushing the driver to the limit and im getting ferocious ammounts of pressure... its deep, its low, its heavy, and it sounds fantastic. I would definitely reccomend this project for anyone considering it. Just remember to use winisd as a reference for your enclosure dimensions, and take your time. I got the subwoofer for $400 new in box, so depending on your choice of enclosure materials and amplifier etc. its easy to get this project done in the $1,000 range... and it beats the crap out of any $1,000 retail subwoofer i've ever heard.
Last edited by jimbob212005; 2nd March 2011 at 04:12 PM. |
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