Please could anyone recommend a subwoofer to buy, or build that will be a good match for a pair of Fostex fullrange FE167E in bass reflex cabinets?
The fullrangers will be powered by a Charlize T-Amp.
Is it best to use the high level inputs and outputs or a separate line level input?
It seems a shame to put a beutifully prepared signal through "god knows what" inside a plate amp.
Budget: As little as poss, but up to £200 if really necessary.
Thanks in advance.
Michael
The fullrangers will be powered by a Charlize T-Amp.
Is it best to use the high level inputs and outputs or a separate line level input?
It seems a shame to put a beutifully prepared signal through "god knows what" inside a plate amp.
Budget: As little as poss, but up to £200 if really necessary.
Thanks in advance.
Michael
Hi there,
The key to matching the sub with your speakers is integration. I think any good quality, low distortion driver will be suitable if you spend some time getting it to integrate properly with the FE167Es.
Look for drivers that suit your desired box size and low frequency response. I have a sealed Dayton DVC 8" sub that I use with my FE127Es sometimes. It sounds great, it can't be described as fast, slow, muddy, lean, or anything like that, just "good". I prefer sealed subwoofers.
I've tried all kinds of things: active / passive crossovers, ported fostexes, sealed fostexes with first order passive high pass. Because I'm keeping the fostexes in ported boxes at the moment, I'm using an active crossover at 80Hz. Some measurement equipment really helps. Consider buying a measurement mic, and using some software like TrueRTA.
Try using your sub crossover without changing your FE167Es first. If it doesn't sound very good, try crossing over / plugging ports of your fostexes.
The plate amp will probably have a electrolytic caps on the speaker level output creating a first order crossover at about 120Hz. Do try it, and if you think it's usable, consider replacing the caps with polypropylene, it might sound a bit better.
The key to matching the sub with your speakers is integration. I think any good quality, low distortion driver will be suitable if you spend some time getting it to integrate properly with the FE167Es.
Look for drivers that suit your desired box size and low frequency response. I have a sealed Dayton DVC 8" sub that I use with my FE127Es sometimes. It sounds great, it can't be described as fast, slow, muddy, lean, or anything like that, just "good". I prefer sealed subwoofers.
I've tried all kinds of things: active / passive crossovers, ported fostexes, sealed fostexes with first order passive high pass. Because I'm keeping the fostexes in ported boxes at the moment, I'm using an active crossover at 80Hz. Some measurement equipment really helps. Consider buying a measurement mic, and using some software like TrueRTA.
Try using your sub crossover without changing your FE167Es first. If it doesn't sound very good, try crossing over / plugging ports of your fostexes.
The plate amp will probably have a electrolytic caps on the speaker level output creating a first order crossover at about 120Hz. Do try it, and if you think it's usable, consider replacing the caps with polypropylene, it might sound a bit better.
If I may add, there are some drivers that just lend themselves better to a subwoofer for those drivers, and I recomend experimenting. IMO a ported sub will sound better than a sealed one in trying to match.
Cain and Cain made a very nice subwoofer using a Seas aluminum cone woofer, you may want to try that if your budget affords it. The Dayton RS series 10" driver would also work nice, though I wouldn't recomend the subs, even the 10" I think will simply be too much, and not the right sound.
I haven't heard or seen it, but I would bet that a Fostex woofer would make a great sub for those, extending bass into the 30hz range. If you wanted really low bass from the more effecient driver designs like that you would need to go larger, say 15" or more in a very large enclosure, 7-10 cubic feet.
I think one of the most ideal setups would be to build a pair of 8" or 10" woofers powered each by say a 150-250 watt sub amp, and placed under or next to your main speakers. Then use a higher crossover point, say around 100-150hz.
I do think its easier, not necassarily better, but easier to match the sub to the main speakers using the speaker level inputs. One recomendation is to run speaker wire directly to your main speakers, and a second set tot he speaker level inputs on the sub. It won't allow you to crossover your main speakers from the amp, but it will give easier integration without possible sound degration.
I also like the recomendation of upgrading the caps built into the amp, but at that point, why not just put the cap right in or on the speaker, keep it out of the subwoofer amp all together. Could make routing the wire easier, allow shorter wire runs, or less obscure ones.
Anyway, my top choice for you would be either a single or pair of Seas 10" L26RFX/P woofers in a portex enclosure with a 150 watt subwoofer amp. Though you will get better bass loading in the corner, I really do think you will find it easier to integrate if you move the woofer out closer to your main speakers, and what will work best would be having a pair crossed over higher up, right next to the main speakers.
Cain and Cain made a very nice subwoofer using a Seas aluminum cone woofer, you may want to try that if your budget affords it. The Dayton RS series 10" driver would also work nice, though I wouldn't recomend the subs, even the 10" I think will simply be too much, and not the right sound.
I haven't heard or seen it, but I would bet that a Fostex woofer would make a great sub for those, extending bass into the 30hz range. If you wanted really low bass from the more effecient driver designs like that you would need to go larger, say 15" or more in a very large enclosure, 7-10 cubic feet.
I think one of the most ideal setups would be to build a pair of 8" or 10" woofers powered each by say a 150-250 watt sub amp, and placed under or next to your main speakers. Then use a higher crossover point, say around 100-150hz.
I do think its easier, not necassarily better, but easier to match the sub to the main speakers using the speaker level inputs. One recomendation is to run speaker wire directly to your main speakers, and a second set tot he speaker level inputs on the sub. It won't allow you to crossover your main speakers from the amp, but it will give easier integration without possible sound degration.
I also like the recomendation of upgrading the caps built into the amp, but at that point, why not just put the cap right in or on the speaker, keep it out of the subwoofer amp all together. Could make routing the wire easier, allow shorter wire runs, or less obscure ones.
Anyway, my top choice for you would be either a single or pair of Seas 10" L26RFX/P woofers in a portex enclosure with a 150 watt subwoofer amp. Though you will get better bass loading in the corner, I really do think you will find it easier to integrate if you move the woofer out closer to your main speakers, and what will work best would be having a pair crossed over higher up, right next to the main speakers.
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