Newbee subwoofer help needed from fellow DIYers.
Building 2 passive closed subwoofers using either the Peerless 10” or 12” XLS. This will simply be 2 closed subwoofer boxes each with a Peerless XLS woofer (no plate amp or internal Xover). The subwoofers will be bi-amped using a dedicated power amp and active electronic Xover. By bi-amping with an active electronic Xover and incorporating 2 subs vs. one, I hope to eliminate some of the classic problems associated with the seamless transition of subwoofers into a hi-end audiophile system.
Question: On a good track or am I missing something? Any suggestions or comments?
RELATED DATA
Strictly audiophile use, NOT home entertainment
Room Dimensions: 25’ X 25’ X12’ H
SS Subwoofer Amp: Behringer A500 (500W Studio Amplifier) 2 channel variable gain controls
Electronic Xover: Marchand XM9
Subwoofer Connection: Preamp -> Electronic Xover -> Amp -> Subs (direct line connections)
Xover from Main Speakers: @ 45 to 50 HZ. The adjustable Xover will be upstream of the amplifiers hopefully allow for a more seamless Xover transition.
Subwoofer Box Design: Will use the 1.8 cu/ft THOR if 12” or North Creek Poseidon if 10” as general guidelines.
Building 2 passive closed subwoofers using either the Peerless 10” or 12” XLS. This will simply be 2 closed subwoofer boxes each with a Peerless XLS woofer (no plate amp or internal Xover). The subwoofers will be bi-amped using a dedicated power amp and active electronic Xover. By bi-amping with an active electronic Xover and incorporating 2 subs vs. one, I hope to eliminate some of the classic problems associated with the seamless transition of subwoofers into a hi-end audiophile system.
Question: On a good track or am I missing something? Any suggestions or comments?
RELATED DATA
Strictly audiophile use, NOT home entertainment
Room Dimensions: 25’ X 25’ X12’ H
SS Subwoofer Amp: Behringer A500 (500W Studio Amplifier) 2 channel variable gain controls
Electronic Xover: Marchand XM9
Subwoofer Connection: Preamp -> Electronic Xover -> Amp -> Subs (direct line connections)
Xover from Main Speakers: @ 45 to 50 HZ. The adjustable Xover will be upstream of the amplifiers hopefully allow for a more seamless Xover transition.
Subwoofer Box Design: Will use the 1.8 cu/ft THOR if 12” or North Creek Poseidon if 10” as general guidelines.
So it's actually an active subwoofer and not a passive one at all.
Apart from the incorrect thread title, you seem on the right track in most things except the box seems way too big for the 12 inch and you haven't stated the volume of the 10 inch, and you haven't mentioned anything about EQ, which will be needed due to the low Qts of the XLS drivers.
Apart from the incorrect thread title, you seem on the right track in most things except the box seems way too big for the 12 inch and you haven't stated the volume of the 10 inch, and you haven't mentioned anything about EQ, which will be needed due to the low Qts of the XLS drivers.
Thanks richie00boy for the response. Once again, a newbee here, so be patient. Sorry for the confusion on the “Passive”, but just wanted to drive home that this subwoofer DIY project is simply to build 2 cabinets with woofers in them, no plate amps or Xovers. I’d love to simply use Kit designs or diagrams and construct them from there, but can‘t find a kit to meet my needs.
Will use the Linkwitz THOR and North Creek Poseidon for general reference and WinISD for final specific design. I appears the THOR (12“ XLS) is in a 50 liter cabinet and the Poseidon 10” is reportedly about 1.5 cu/ft, but these figures include space for the plate amp.
As for the EQ, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Will use the Linkwitz THOR and North Creek Poseidon for general reference and WinISD for final specific design. I appears the THOR (12“ XLS) is in a 50 liter cabinet and the Poseidon 10” is reportedly about 1.5 cu/ft, but these figures include space for the plate amp.
As for the EQ, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
The XLS10 is really made to be used with it's accompanying passive radiator. It can work in a sealed box but the response will be a bit light. Look to correct this with a Linkwitz Transform or maybe some other kind of EQ such as a dedicated subwoofer 'graphic equaliser'.
1.5 cu ft is a bit big for an XLS10. I'm sure once you start playing with WinISD things will become more apparant.
1.5 cu ft is a bit big for an XLS10. I'm sure once you start playing with WinISD things will become more apparant.
Once again, thanks so much for the inputs. As a result am now looking at the Peerless XXLSS, newer sealed box version of the XLS. Hopefully this will be a little more appropriate for my design.
Also, checking out equalizers like the Pyle (PLE730R) 7. Don't know where this will end up, but will certainly getting an ATI Sound Pressure Level Meter and Rives Audio Test CD.
What ya think?
Also, checking out equalizers like the Pyle (PLE730R) 7. Don't know where this will end up, but will certainly getting an ATI Sound Pressure Level Meter and Rives Audio Test CD.
What ya think?
Two options you may think about. I don't know what the main speakers are but you xover point to the subs is fairly low.
One thought would be set the xover to the midbass a bit higher(maybe the 80Hz range) to help unload the midbass from having to reproduce the lowest frequencies. Kinda the same reason for the sub in the first place but lowering the midbass bandwidth will help clean up the sound where it will be more audible.
Second thought is if you still want to or need to xover to the sub in the 40Hz - 50Hz range, you could tune the midbass (I assume closed box alignment) for an f3 at your xover frequency and not use the highpass section of the electronic xover.
If you have full control over all the parameters, you could do both one and two above.
One thought would be set the xover to the midbass a bit higher(maybe the 80Hz range) to help unload the midbass from having to reproduce the lowest frequencies. Kinda the same reason for the sub in the first place but lowering the midbass bandwidth will help clean up the sound where it will be more audible.
Second thought is if you still want to or need to xover to the sub in the 40Hz - 50Hz range, you could tune the midbass (I assume closed box alignment) for an f3 at your xover frequency and not use the highpass section of the electronic xover.
If you have full control over all the parameters, you could do both one and two above.
For less than $100US you can buy an active woofer XO. The one from Reckford gives you quite a bit of flexibility. Does the Marchand also do this?
Variable subsonic frequency (low pass)
Variable high pass.
Variable boost
Variable boost frequency
Variable gain.
I picked one up here in Canada from Creative Sound Solutions.
Variable subsonic frequency (low pass)
Variable high pass.
Variable boost
Variable boost frequency
Variable gain.
I picked one up here in Canada from Creative Sound Solutions.
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