Plate amp for SVS 12.1

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I'm looking for a plate amp for my SVS 12.1 plus DIY sub. My incloser is a 3.7cuft downfire, with a 3" port 11" long. The box is tuned to approx 23hz, if I'm not mistaken. I just aquired a SVS 12.1 plus driver for the box. I'm looking @ the Dayton 240 watt or the BASH 300watt. Im sure thats all the watts I would need. My room is about 22'L x 16'W x 8'H. I have no experience in these amps, but I did read very good reviews abou the Dayton. And both can custom bass boost and subsonic filter.

Any opinions?

Jake

P.S. I do have a Dayton DVC 12" that I will be building a similar box for, so in the future I would get 2 of what ever amp I deside on.
 
I built two svs clones a few months ago with the 12.1 driver. The first thing i would recommend is going to a 4" or larger port. The first clone i built had a 3" port which i later changed out because of the port noise from the 3" port. Unfortunately one of the drivers was a lot weaker then the other and it finally bit the dust this last weekend. Each sub was driven with a 500w bash plate amp from partsexpress. The one sub thats still alive can take everything the 500w bash amp can give out. Partsexpress still has there 500w bash amp for a really good price at 160$. My personal recommendation would be the 500w bash amp. You can always turn the amp down if its to much but you cant add wattage if the sub isn't load enough. I also dont think a 300w amp will meet your needs in a room of that size. My theater room is probably about the same volume as the room you intend to use the sub in but i was not happy with one 12.1 500w sub. The volume of the room is just to large for a single sub of that type. Go with the 500w amp you'll probably be disappointed with the 300w. You could also go a little lower with the tune. I have my subs tuned to 18hz and they rock the foundation during movie watching. Good luck with the sub.
 
Thanks chevy. I will be using dual subs in my system. The other sub is a Dyaton DVC 12", with a similar box.

Ok..I do have a 4" port. With the size of my incloser, what length would you recommend? A larger port, I would have to go longer right?

As for the amp, I think your right. But PE doesnt have any avaliable, I guess I'll have to wait for them (500 BASH) to return to stock. Unless you know of another company that handles them.

I really appreciate your input on this matter, chevy. I was very unsure of the wattage or amp.

So, in your opinion, you would not go with the Dayton amp?

Thanks Again
Jake
 
If you go to the 4 inch port with the 3.7ft^3 enclosure i think you'll need a 20" port for a 20hz tune somewhere round a 15.5" for a 22hz tune. I cant see any problem using the Dayton amp, but I've never used one so i cant really comment on it. I believe the bash amp's are a little more efficient so the Dayton would be a safer choice in terms of the driver longevity. Probably not much difference in the end.

A note about the PE bash amp's, if you do indeed go with the bash amps you'll need to change two resisters on the amp. The amps come stock with a 30hz highpass filter and 3db boost at 30-35hz. Which is not needed at all for the svs drivers. I didn't replace the resisters with my first sub and think this was a reason for the eventual destruction of it. Its an easy change if you can solder a little bit.

I hope this doesn't turn you off of the bash amps because i couldn't be happier with there performance. They're also very cheap right now to boot. But im the type of person that doesnt really want to wait 2-3 weeks for stuff to get my project going:)

I too wish i could get the t/s parameters but that isnt going to happen anytime soon. One nice thing about svs is they will help you with your build. I originally talked to the engineer at svs and he gave me some good advice on what kind of enclosure to build. I chose to ignore his advice on the port tube because i had a 3" laying around. Fortunately that only cost me a few hours of fabricating to change it to the 4" port.

FYI, my setup is something like this:
16" sonotube
4.2ft^3
4" port, length 22" 18Hz tune
Inside lined with eggcrate type polyfill
1bd boost at 20-25 highpass @ 14hz (see documentation on bash amp for more info)

Glad i could help. Keep use informed on your progress. I especially would like to know how the Dayton amp works with the 12.1 driver if you end up using it. Good luck.
 
I had a long conversation with Tom over @ SVS. I asked him about the parameters, he said he didnt have them and that SVS doesnt make that info public. No big deal. He did say that he would not go with less than 300 watts. And that the BASH amp that SVS uses and the PE amp, are NOT the same.

What a very helpful guy. I told him about my setup, he suggested a 4" port about 16" long will do just fine. But will go longer (about 20"). I asked him about the Rythmik amp, he wasnt familiar with thier design.

After reading up on Rythmik, and reading people's post in other forums, I desided to go with them. The 350A does have bass boost and subsonic cuts, located as a switch instead of soldering. And was tested by some @ 380watts @ 4ohms, which (in theory) should be perfect for the 12.1 driver.

Here is a link, if you are not farmiliar with Rythmik. http://rythmikaudio.com/nonservo_product.htm#350basic

Seems like a solid amp.
I guess I'll soon find out.

Jake
 
Yes, Tom at svs is very helpful. Its a bit surprising they're so helpful i normally don't expect companies that make proprietary goods to help in such a way.

The amps are quite a bit deferent . When i talked to Tom he said they have lots of R&D into the amps to give the best/flattest response curves for the particular drivers.

I looked into the Rythmik amps and i really liked the features they had. Much better feature set then the PE bash amps in my opinion. At that time i didn't realize that the PE bash amps needed to be modified so i went with them.

I think Rythmik amp will be a great combination for the 12.1 driver. I normally don't have my subs up full blast at anytime anyway, especially during music listening. I tend to like more seat of the pants bass when watching movies.

I hope everything works out great.
 
chevy1965usa said:
Yes, Tom at svs is very helpful. Its a bit surprising they're so helpful i normally don't expect companies that make proprietary goods to help in such a way.

The amps are quite a bit deferent . When i talked to Tom he said they have lots of R&D into the amps to give the best/flattest response curves for the particular drivers.

I looked into the Rythmik amps and i really liked the features they had. Much better feature set then the PE bash amps in my opinion. At that time i didn't realize that the PE bash amps needed to be modified so i went with them.

I think Rythmik amp will be a great combination for the 12.1 driver. I normally don't have my subs up full blast at anytime anyway, especially during music listening. I tend to like more seat of the pants bass when watching movies.

I hope everything works out great.

Yes Tom, is great.

I'm trying to avoid the BOOMY bass, thats when the features of the Rythmik really impressed me. I prefer more of a feeling then a hearing when it comes to subs. And the fact that I wont have to unsolder and resolder anything is nice too. I hope the build is straight up because, I do run my system pretty hard at times. Especially when Star Wars and LOTR or WOTW or KK is on the big screen.

Rythmik said they would ship it out tomorrow, so I'll be waiting.

Thanks abunch for the help Chevy.
 
Just an Update:

I'm just about finished. Increased the port size to 4" instead of 3". The length is now 18"instead of 11" (3.7cuft incloser). I dont know excatly what the tune is, but it should be close to the 20hz mark.

Everything is hooked up and the bass is outstanding. VERY, VERY Deep

I'm ordering the 24db chip from Rythmik. The 12db thats comes stock just isn't cutting it. Too slow of a slope, getting cross talk with very deep voices, between my mains and sub, so I'm hoping with the 24db slope, it will work better.

I was always a big fan of 2 subs, to eleminate any nulls in my room, but with this one SVS sub and the Rythmik amp, I dont have that issue, which is confusing, but oh well....

My settings on my H/K 635 AVR are: main L, R, C , crossed over @60hz. My sub is set to 60hz as well. On the H/K there is a setting for sub size, I have it @ 15". Because the setting for 12" has a high pass filter @ 20hz. So having the size @ 15" has the Hp filter @15hz, and that allows the Rythmik to take care of that. The Rythmik is set: Gain: 1 o'clock.... Lp Crossover: 40hz.... and "Rumble" filter is 14hz with medium dampening.

Now I know that it is not recommended to use both the AVR's crossover and the amp's crossover at the same time, but when running the EZEQ adjustments in manual, I dont want the AVR to think the sub is supposed to go above 60-80hz. So I set it @ 60hz. I found that when runing the EZEQ, and having the AVR's crossover set too high, the AVR tends to boost the higher Fr to try to compensate for lack of.

But anyways, I wanted to give a nod to Rythmik, they do biuld a solid and powerfull amp. And also a nod to SVS, even in my DIY incloser, the sub sounds great.

Jake
 
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