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#1 |
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Custom Title
diyAudio Member
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$55 each for good quality, if somewhat generic, 10" subs. Fs of 23Hz, 13mm Xmax, and the real rub: 12 ohm coils. Parallel 2, and you get six ohms.... add a 18 awg aircore at about 12mH and you'll push that back up to 8 ohms, increase Qes and accordingly Qts, to get a little extra bass extension out of them
What's the point? $130 per channel buys you two high excursion tens, you wind up with a nice 8 ohm load and OB appropriate(ish) Qts range...... subs are on clearance/sale page at madisound www.madisound.com The aircoils are available many places, the Jantzens from www.partsexpress.com would be my choice. For most people, this would be enough displacement for eq'd OB use. One could roll in a FR125 first order on top of these, and barely need any EQ to deal with dipole cancellation if they chose the crossover points right.
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I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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Why not parallel 3 for a 4 ohm load?
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#3 |
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Custom Title
diyAudio Member
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Why indeed! Mine was as much a project idea as anything else, but if you want to parallel 3, be my guest
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I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Seattle
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I was only thinking since it's common in car audio
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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what would be the benefit of building a box with three of these instead of 1 15" subwoofer? I am looking for something for HT purposes...
I realize the box will be quite large, and quite heavy. Looking at WINISD to build a box for three of these vented I would need to build a 228 liter box (if I put the driver perameters correctly) that is for a vented box, a sealed box would be only 110 but would have it's 3db down point at like 35 hz. vs. the vented at 228 has it's 3db at 23 hz |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: New York
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http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind....27123&pid=723
Is this $55 subwoofer old news or is it still a viable option? Is the 13mm peak speck really just 6.5mm one way? Will the 12 ohm rating work with current plate amps? What are the best 10” sub driver options around these days? TIA, Godzilla |
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#7 |
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Custom Title
diyAudio Member
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Three of these would have more displacement than a typical 15", quite possibly better power handling due to more cooling area, and they're very affordable. People often describe smaller bass drivers as 'quick' (though 'fast' bass is a myth)
But mostly the price and build quality for $55 is excellent. The low Fs (23Hz!!) is excellent for a 10" to be used as a sub. It is very similar to something like an adire shiva. Best 10" subs... stiff competition. TC sounds has http://www.tcsounds.com/db500.htm and there's http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=295-460 too many others to mention. This one has the unique 12 ohm coil, and the very low Fs, and probably a good 6.5mm xmax, the price, and the well optimized T/S parameters make it a very affordable and flexible option. Someone just did a project with four of Apex Jr.'s "Super 8s" and these are lower Fs... 4 10"s in a sub... yummy!!
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I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned! |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
which would be better? this is for my HT dedicated room in my basement, the only problem with my HT room is that I can't corner load the subwoofer, and I still want to shake the house on command... thanks |
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#9 |
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Custom Title
diyAudio Member
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Well, 'better' is a subjective term. There are 15"s that can outpace 3 of these, but mostly they're significantly more expensive. The Adire Tempest is what I use, and it's priced about the same as 3 of these, and I'd expect similar performance.
If I were you, I'd make a big sub made with the 10"s in a long line. Giant sealed enclosure, loaded into the 'corner' of the floor and the wall. By spacing out the drivers along a long length, you can break up room resonances, and smooth out the bass response. Something like a 12"x12"x72" cab for all three, with drivers on either end, and in the center. Oh, and lots of bracing. Wouldn't protrude much into the room, but would be big and go deep, especially with EQ.... the reduction in room modal/nodal behavior would be quite an advantage over a single-driver sub.
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I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned! |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Aren't those NHT subs designed for sealed cabinets?
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