Currently, I have no subwoofer in my room. I'm really into music, and this is what I'd use it for, but I also would like to power basement parties and such. But I have no money, so here comes my "plan"
-Snag two Alpine Type-E's (10", 250W Rms, 4 ohm) from ebay. They go fairly cheap and seem like good quality;
-Get some sort of a power amplifier (a dj type) that will allow me to hook up an input from the receiver, and then power those two suckers. Looked at a Crown Power Tech 1, seems like it would do the job, but it's a little overpowered;
-Then build an enclosure, paint it nice glossy black, and put it in the corner of my room. Or in the basement of a party.
How does this sound? I think I might be able to pull it off assuming i can get an amp for cheap. And all that satisfaction from building it myself and not blowing up anything would be great.
Some concerns: any reason why the Alpine's wont work in a room?
Will the power amp paired with the subs be alright quality?
I'm not trying to go for great quality, just looking for chest pumping bass.
-Snag two Alpine Type-E's (10", 250W Rms, 4 ohm) from ebay. They go fairly cheap and seem like good quality;
-Get some sort of a power amplifier (a dj type) that will allow me to hook up an input from the receiver, and then power those two suckers. Looked at a Crown Power Tech 1, seems like it would do the job, but it's a little overpowered;
-Then build an enclosure, paint it nice glossy black, and put it in the corner of my room. Or in the basement of a party.
How does this sound? I think I might be able to pull it off assuming i can get an amp for cheap. And all that satisfaction from building it myself and not blowing up anything would be great.
Some concerns: any reason why the Alpine's wont work in a room?
Will the power amp paired with the subs be alright quality?
I'm not trying to go for great quality, just looking for chest pumping bass.
I still think you should look for a driver that's targeted towards the home market, instead of one that is targeted towards the car market. In general, a hi-fi market subwoofer will probably be more efficient, because it has less pretty plastic hanging from its moving structure. A lot of car woofers are just designed to soak up wattage without overheating, so heavy moving structures and stiff suspensions are common. Look at the Dayton Classic 15" subwoofer driver. This is a new one that I don't think many people are taking notice of, but it would probably suit your application well.
Yes I agree, two of these are at similar price:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-550
A better choise for home use if you really are into music.
B
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-550
A better choise for home use if you really are into music.
B
But you probably can't find that cheap. I can easily get the 10's for 30-35 shipped a peice.
Any good subwoofers that I can get cheap? Such as the JBL PSW-1200. that I could probably pick up for like 150. Any such other subwoofers? Again, don't really care about movies, but more geared towards music.
Any good subwoofers that I can get cheap? Such as the JBL PSW-1200. that I could probably pick up for like 150. Any such other subwoofers? Again, don't really care about movies, but more geared towards music.
Now you're talking about pro sound woofers. There are only a handful of pro audio subs that even have their -3dB point below 40 Hz, because true deep bass reproduction in pro audio applications is not very practical without very large arrays of boxes. As far as an 18" woofer being good for music, driver diameter's got nothing to do with it. A pro sound 18" woofer has a relatively light moving structure compared with a car subwoofer, so it will be more efficient, but the "musicality" of any design is usually more dependent on the box design. Most pro sound drivers are designed with a similar set of parameters for some degree of interchangability, so it's easier to make more general statements about pro audio drivers. A pro audio 18" woofer generally wants a large box, not tuned very deep (usually between 30-50 Hz). This would be a good way to get thump for your basement parties, and should go deep enough for most music. It should also be fairly efficient, allowing you to get loud with less power than you would need if you were using the Alpines.
The Peavey 118 comes in a pro-looking box, everything but the amp. I'm thinking this would be the best option. It's got two ports in the back, says parallel, 8 ohm, 400 Watt RMS (Programable). Does this mean I need to look for an amplifier that has 2 stereo outs and can do 200 Watts on both of those at 8 Ohms? Any suggestions on cheap amplifiers, or models I should look for? Also discontinued models that I can look to buy used?
No, the two inputs are in parallel, one extra for chaining to a top speaker. Use only one amplifier.
The Peavey PV118 bass driver is custom built in China.
I could not find any data on the 18" driver so I tried to e-s-t-i-m-a-t-e the T/S parameters from the given sparse flyer information I found on the net.
Take a look at the pictures below. First two is for T/S estimation, which can’t be taken for guaranteed but possibly close enough to the real parameters.
I reasoned that the driver was made and optimised for a Qb3 reflex box since this gives the lowest requirements for box size/ f-3dB.
The last pictures are reflex box simulation using the calculated T/S-data.
Conclusions and my opinions: The driver in a 200 L sealed box might sound musical and can be classified as a bass-speaker rather than a sub-bass when placed close to a wall and from possible sound quality reasons I would never use drivers intended for cars or PA for Hi-Fi use at home.
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thebulgarian, as far as an amp I'd look for a used crown micro-tech or macro-tech or a crest professional series or an ev/dynacord. The old yamaha pro amps are pretty good too.
Amp power output selection will depend on how you want to run the subs.
If you want to run them stereo obviously 400w a channel at 8ohms is the way to go.
If you want to run them in mono, an amp that can do 800w at 4ohms BRIDGED MODE will be fine.
Amp power output selection will depend on how you want to run the subs.
If you want to run them stereo obviously 400w a channel at 8ohms is the way to go.
If you want to run them in mono, an amp that can do 800w at 4ohms BRIDGED MODE will be fine.
Just went and picked it up.
bjorno: the box does look sealed. there's a really small hole at the top that's it. Other then that, I'll have to get an amp and try it out.
As for that chart, I'm seeing a really sharp drop off after 100 Hz, maybe the sub isn't so? Here's some data from zzounds.com:
"Frequency Response (+/- 3 dB anechoic): 40 Hz to 180 Hz
Frequency Range (-10 dB, half space): 38 Hz to 500 Hz
Sensitivity (1 Watt/1 meter): 95 dB
Maximum SPL: 118 dB"
Perhaps that lower sub bass will be a bit louder. For music I only need 60+ Hz, right?
bjorno: the box does look sealed. there's a really small hole at the top that's it. Other then that, I'll have to get an amp and try it out.
As for that chart, I'm seeing a really sharp drop off after 100 Hz, maybe the sub isn't so? Here's some data from zzounds.com:
"Frequency Response (+/- 3 dB anechoic): 40 Hz to 180 Hz
Frequency Range (-10 dB, half space): 38 Hz to 500 Hz
Sensitivity (1 Watt/1 meter): 95 dB
Maximum SPL: 118 dB"
Perhaps that lower sub bass will be a bit louder. For music I only need 60+ Hz, right?
Maybe if you favour tactile chest pounding sounds at high levels, I don’t.
For me it depends on the recording bandwidth and the cues often hidden at the low end of the spectrum.
Especially captured environmental background sounds must have a direction and as well as always appear completely externalised for the ears.
I believe one sub cannot do this job alone, but three is the minimum number that can.
I always listen at full bandwidth and multi-channel and done that since the early seventies.
A real sub in my opinion, if not placed laterally, is a speaker with designed fc lower or equal than 30 Hz and of course an f3 < = 30 Hz.
For lateral use, always used in conjunction with the sub mentioned above, is an f3 of 50-60 Hz enough and an fc of <=80 Hz.
Today I used my newly downloaded software from www.quarter-wave.com and modelled the ported box.
Made first a consistent check of your data included and the T/S data recovered looks ‘plausible’ enough at 1 W modelling level.
When placing a 3” diameter minimum length port = 0.75” the maximum input power recommended is about 100W.
Maybe your port is even smaller? I placed the port at the rear of the box and know if on the front, disturbing sounds can be expected colouring at higher levels.
Take a look at the short TL port air velocity, it looks much better and this speaker is also better suited as a sub bass at home due to the low end FR slope.
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