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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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I'm running 2 12's in my 05 nissan maxima using a v12 alpine mono amp. Just what I can install to reduce or adjust bass loudness. I have a stock deck and can adjust just a little bit of the bass through the Bass settings. I need something to significantly reduce bass for some song. What do I need?
thanks, sasson |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Boulder City, Nevada
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Is there not a level adjustment in your subwoofer crossover configuration, or on the woofer power amplifier itself?
If there is no level adjust and you have access to the line inputs which are dedicated to the subwoofer amplifier, you could impose attenuation just ahead of the input. Attach line from deck or XO to terminal 3, line into amp to terminal 2 (wiper), and common to terminal 1 of a log-taper potentiometer, say 10k-50k ohms. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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This may seem like I'm being obtuse, but I suspect that the problem is not with your head or amp, but your sub enclosure. Quite often they are designed to produce peak output, which means they are tuned to one particular frequency that sounds very loud, the so called "one note bass". If the songs that seem too bass heavy hit that tuning frequency then that could explain why they then seem to need turning down.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Boulder City, Nevada
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Pinkmouse has an excellent point. My approach reduces volume across the 'subspectrum' but the 'one note bass' does seem to be common. Songs in various keys seem to sound the same in the bass department, even in some cases when lacking direct excitation of the problem frequencies.
You could retune/realign the enclosure, which would be the best approach... An equalizer may be an acceptable solution also. If you can get an EQ even temporarily, it can be used by trial and error to isolate the problem frequencies so that realignment is more directed and less guessing. A real-time analyzer or mic+FFT may shed some light too. Just do everything the usual way (windows up/down, while driving, etc.). IMHO, low-Q, high-Xmax sealed boxes are most appropriate for cars given their low frequency excitability and transient response. *edit: the car volume's excitability that is* |
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