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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Hey all,
New to the speaker game. I have this Precision Power PC8 8" driver in one of the recommended size sealed enclosures (0.75 cu ft) but it doesnt sound very good; this is for a car stereo application. I did some basic research and d/l winISD to see what this driver was doing. T/S parameters are: from: http://www.precisionpower.com/ppipdfs/subs/pc81011.pdf Nominal Power Handling = 200W Resonant Frequency = 35Hz Qts = 0.25 Qms = 1.28 Qes = 0.32 Vas = 17.91L = 0.632 cuft DC Resistance = 3.4 Ohm Sensitivity 1W/1m = 85.7dB Linear excursion = +/- 7.98mm Mms - Total Mass = 59.98g Sd - Piston Area = 0.0191 sq.m Bi-Magnet Product = 11.83 TM Mounting Dia. = 7.125" Aiming for a Qtc of 0.707 winISD calculates a Vb=0.09 cu ft! Quite a bit different than the recommended sizes of 0.5, 0.75, and 1.0 cu ft. So I read that lower Qts drivers are better suited to vented enclosures. For vented winISD calculates Vb=0.13 cu ft, tuning freq=57 Hz, but the port lengths are rediculously long (eg. 1.9m for a single 10cm diameter port). So any suggestions what can be done with this driver for a more 'correct' enclosure or is best for a paper weight? Thanks in advance. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Calgary on the Bow
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car subs take advantage of the impact that a small cabin has to offer. So with car subs You ought to run a design program to see what size box to use. If you don't have or want to run a simulation then use the largest volume recommended cabinet and then if you find you need a little more umph you can either fire the sub into a corner or just place the cabinet in the corner of your room with the longest diagonal dimension. Regards Moray James.
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moray james |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Australia
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Another option would be a Transmission line, I've been using TL's in cars for some time, your's I would put in a tube 8'' in dia by 45'' long, lightly stuffed along the whole length with polyester fill, you'll need to put mesh or a grille on the open end to stop the fill from coming out.
Position the tube at the far back of the car/trunk for best results. |
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#5 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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If those parameters are right, a sealed box is useless and I find it hard how any manufacturer could even think about suggesting to use a sealed box. It's power handling will be poor and it will quite severely lack bass and punch. I would go vented, but with Qts that low it's never going to be a stormer.
__________________
www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#6 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Thanks, Ron |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Quote:
I was going to try vented but I have no knowledge on how to get around the very long port length. Can it be snaked back and forth without drastically affecting the tuning? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Seems like it has a dual voice coil ? Qts can be varied at the cost of efficiency. To port it you would need a passive radiator. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Australia
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Quote:
You don't need to use a tube though, I've made folded lines out of wood that work just as well. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Australia
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And the finished result;
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