So right now I have a couple of “full range” speakers in my office that I built around some very cheap 4” drivers that PE was selling last year. I’m probably going to replace the drivers with some of the TB W3-871S 3" drivers.
I’m looking to build a sub that will do three things.
1. Integrate well with the existing “full range” speakers
2. Small size, needs to fit under my desk at work
3. Sounds good at low volumes
Right now I’m looking at the Dayton SD215-88 8" or possibly a TangBand W6-1139SG 6-1/2" in a small sealed sub. Any other recommendations?
Thanks,
-Ron
I’m looking to build a sub that will do three things.
1. Integrate well with the existing “full range” speakers
2. Small size, needs to fit under my desk at work
3. Sounds good at low volumes
Right now I’m looking at the Dayton SD215-88 8" or possibly a TangBand W6-1139SG 6-1/2" in a small sealed sub. Any other recommendations?
Thanks,
-Ron
I'll probably get something like the Dayton SA25 or SA70 plate amp. Haven't decided on the amp yet of even if I'll run it external to the sub itself. One though I had was doing a mini sealed sonotube in which case I might not be able to fit the amp in.
My amp is a Onkyo R-805 mini-receiver that has a subwoofer out on it.
My amp is a Onkyo R-805 mini-receiver that has a subwoofer out on it.
If it was me and I was looking for one in the $23 price range, I'd probably go with that Dayton.
If you're willing to spend $40, take a look at the Silver Flute shielded 8" at Madisound (at the bottom):
http://www.madisound.com/silverflute.html
Looks like the shielded one only comes in 8ohm
If you're willing to spend $40, take a look at the Silver Flute shielded 8" at Madisound (at the bottom):
http://www.madisound.com/silverflute.html
Looks like the shielded one only comes in 8ohm
While choosing the best 8" sub for my car, sealed .35 cu ft (small)
,ran by 150wrm +...Partsexpress ran the Bass Box numbers for two drivers side by side, the Quattro, and the Tang Bang.
The Quattro qould play a bit louder (spl), howeve the Tang Bang would go lower (lower Fs, etc) and both would reach about 102-105db before xmax problems. Parts Express rep recommended the TB. It;s the W8-740C Long Excursion.
I ended up getting a fantastic deal on a RE8 with DVC, 175wrms, 12xmax, from a reseller on sounddomain, $53 shipped, got that was my final choice, and the results are aoutstanding. tight and chean chest pounding base. (small car, convertible Boxster) Wow.
I guess my post may help with the part that the PE express rep says the TB if perfect for a small sealed box, just amp it right.
On an audio sound board, an extremely experienced moderator also recommende the TB.
PS: Here is a nice project with 8" and a PR, all parts from PE.
http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/triska/index.html
Hope this helps.
,ran by 150wrm +...Partsexpress ran the Bass Box numbers for two drivers side by side, the Quattro, and the Tang Bang.
The Quattro qould play a bit louder (spl), howeve the Tang Bang would go lower (lower Fs, etc) and both would reach about 102-105db before xmax problems. Parts Express rep recommended the TB. It;s the W8-740C Long Excursion.
I ended up getting a fantastic deal on a RE8 with DVC, 175wrms, 12xmax, from a reseller on sounddomain, $53 shipped, got that was my final choice, and the results are aoutstanding. tight and chean chest pounding base. (small car, convertible Boxster) Wow.
I guess my post may help with the part that the PE express rep says the TB if perfect for a small sealed box, just amp it right.
On an audio sound board, an extremely experienced moderator also recommende the TB.
PS: Here is a nice project with 8" and a PR, all parts from PE.
http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/triska/index.html
Hope this helps.
I have the Tang Band W8-740C in my car and I absolutely love it. I'm getting another and am going to move them into the cabin. I looked at the RE 8" but they were on a long backorder.
I was going to recommend the W8-740C, but it's not shielded. If that doesn't matter to you or you don't mind getting a big bucking magnet, check that one out.
I was going to recommend the W8-740C, but it's not shielded. If that doesn't matter to you or you don't mind getting a big bucking magnet, check that one out.
My graph for the TB doesn't look like that. Are you sure you had the parameters right?:
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w8-740c.htm
http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w8-740c.htm
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Lothar34 said:
Note to self, never trust parameters that you don't enter yourself.
Thanks Lothar, apparently the driver file that came with WinISD was wrong. I corrected the entries and got a much nicer curve.
The TB doesn't go quite as low as the Dayton but the Dayton box is almost 5 times as big. I think I might have a winner.
Yeah. If you take into account the price and the the fact that the Dayton is shielded, I think I'd go with that one too. Assuming you don't need the extra power handling.
How do they decide what to list as the "Frequency Response"? On PE's site it says the Dayton is 30Hz+ and the TB is 28Hz+, but looking at that graph the Dayton is 6dB higher at 30Hz. I'm confused.
How do they decide what to list as the "Frequency Response"? On PE's site it says the Dayton is 30Hz+ and the TB is 28Hz+, but looking at that graph the Dayton is 6dB higher at 30Hz. I'm confused.
The best value 8" driver I've encountered is this MCM 8" high excursion woofer
http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog_name=MCMProducts&product_id=55-2421
http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog_name=MCMProducts&product_id=55-2421
I seem to have a thing for building subwoofers with small drivers. I've done 3 now.
First I built a sub with the Dayton SD215-88 8" DVD subwoofer (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-480). I used PE's recommended enclosure & port configuration. I used a PE 100-ish watt plate amp to power it.
I'm exceptionally pleased with the overall result. The woofer is smooth and pleasant to listen to. It doesn't resolve every last detail, but I've never really found it lacking either. Bass is powerful in my medium sized living room (approximately 12x20), in fact, I haven't yet found the limits of the sub. A few days ago I couldn't refuse, and turned it up until my walls started shaking. It kept it's composure throughout.
The major drawback to this setup is that the enclosure is very large. I think it's over 1.5 cubic feet including the space taken up by the port and the plate amp.
A short while later, I built a subwoofer system for my fiance's car. I used a pair of the Tangband W8-740C woofers in a slot-ported configuration. These subs don't go as deep as the Daytons (F3 of approximately 35hz), but their huge x-max and small-box size made them ideal for the car. The major drawback to these is that due to their small enclosure size and relatively deep tuning frequency, coupled with the fact that you really need a 3" port due to the exursion capabilities, you wind up with a ridiculously large port, which is why I used a slot port. By the time I built the enclosure and incorporated the slot port, I wound up with such a large enclosure that I could have just tossed in a couple sealed 10" subs and been better off. But, these were cheap, they pound hard, and they sound very good for the money. It's hard to compare them to the Dayton because they're in such a different environment, but I'd say that they have more impact, but a bit less detail.
On to my most recent sub. This time I built something to compliment my Tangband W3-871 computer speakers built in accordance with John Krutke's plans. For this, the goal was cheap, small, and asthetics that matched the mains.
This time I chose the Dayton DA175-8 7" Aluminum cone woofer (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-335).
This driver typically requires a large-ish enclosure, but since this was originally designed for a computer setup, I was willing to sacrifice a little deep bass for a more compact design. I don't recall the final volume that I selected, but you can design to taste in WinISD or a similar program. In any case, I kept the enclosure as narrow as possible so that I could slide it down behind my computer desk. I believe I wound up with a 9" width, which allowed sufficient room for the woofer and slot port on the front, and the plate amp on the rear. I used one of the low power plate amps that MCM blew out for $25 a couple years ago.
Anyway... I can't say enough about this sub. It blew my mind. At first it sounded a bit thick and boomy, but over time the sound mellowed out and became very pleasing. It has reasonable impact considering its size, sufficient deep bass extention, and more than enough output to fill a room at reasonable listening levels. The lack of output below 50hz prevents it from being quite as natural sounding as I'd like, but it still has a nice deep presence and the frequencies that it does play are very natural, clean, and not at all strained.
I play the Tangbands full range, and I tuned the low pass filter on the plate amp by ear, so I really have no idea what the actual response near the crossover looks like, but I was happy with how well it blended in with the main speakers. I suspect that I have a bit of a frequency gap between the sub and the mains, but I tend to prefer having a gap rather than tune the sub up so high that localization becomes an issue.
First I built a sub with the Dayton SD215-88 8" DVD subwoofer (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-480). I used PE's recommended enclosure & port configuration. I used a PE 100-ish watt plate amp to power it.
I'm exceptionally pleased with the overall result. The woofer is smooth and pleasant to listen to. It doesn't resolve every last detail, but I've never really found it lacking either. Bass is powerful in my medium sized living room (approximately 12x20), in fact, I haven't yet found the limits of the sub. A few days ago I couldn't refuse, and turned it up until my walls started shaking. It kept it's composure throughout.
The major drawback to this setup is that the enclosure is very large. I think it's over 1.5 cubic feet including the space taken up by the port and the plate amp.
A short while later, I built a subwoofer system for my fiance's car. I used a pair of the Tangband W8-740C woofers in a slot-ported configuration. These subs don't go as deep as the Daytons (F3 of approximately 35hz), but their huge x-max and small-box size made them ideal for the car. The major drawback to these is that due to their small enclosure size and relatively deep tuning frequency, coupled with the fact that you really need a 3" port due to the exursion capabilities, you wind up with a ridiculously large port, which is why I used a slot port. By the time I built the enclosure and incorporated the slot port, I wound up with such a large enclosure that I could have just tossed in a couple sealed 10" subs and been better off. But, these were cheap, they pound hard, and they sound very good for the money. It's hard to compare them to the Dayton because they're in such a different environment, but I'd say that they have more impact, but a bit less detail.
On to my most recent sub. This time I built something to compliment my Tangband W3-871 computer speakers built in accordance with John Krutke's plans. For this, the goal was cheap, small, and asthetics that matched the mains.
This time I chose the Dayton DA175-8 7" Aluminum cone woofer (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-335).
This driver typically requires a large-ish enclosure, but since this was originally designed for a computer setup, I was willing to sacrifice a little deep bass for a more compact design. I don't recall the final volume that I selected, but you can design to taste in WinISD or a similar program. In any case, I kept the enclosure as narrow as possible so that I could slide it down behind my computer desk. I believe I wound up with a 9" width, which allowed sufficient room for the woofer and slot port on the front, and the plate amp on the rear. I used one of the low power plate amps that MCM blew out for $25 a couple years ago.
Anyway... I can't say enough about this sub. It blew my mind. At first it sounded a bit thick and boomy, but over time the sound mellowed out and became very pleasing. It has reasonable impact considering its size, sufficient deep bass extention, and more than enough output to fill a room at reasonable listening levels. The lack of output below 50hz prevents it from being quite as natural sounding as I'd like, but it still has a nice deep presence and the frequencies that it does play are very natural, clean, and not at all strained.
I play the Tangbands full range, and I tuned the low pass filter on the plate amp by ear, so I really have no idea what the actual response near the crossover looks like, but I was happy with how well it blended in with the main speakers. I suspect that I have a bit of a frequency gap between the sub and the mains, but I tend to prefer having a gap rather than tune the sub up so high that localization becomes an issue.
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