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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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My current project is not nearly completed but like most of us the brain is partially on the next one.
I will be needing a subwoofer. surprise I am having thoughts of building a coffee table with an open baffle sub as per the pathetic attached pic. I am thinking of a few advantages: 1) I will get a new coffee table for my coffee 2) As per the usual coffee table sub setup, it won't intrude in on the room. 3) The isolating baffles will be quite large, allowing for good bass. 4) ? 4) I will get a new coffee table for my coffee shoot it down please.
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Crazy Yankee. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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It sounds interesting. You might have to eq to compensate for the front to back cancellation. There will be a bass null along the baffle plane. I want to try an H-Baffle soon myself
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".........These go to eleven" |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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If you could place say a single woofer on an end and use a larger U baffle would that not allow you to use less equalization due to a larger baffle length?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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or how 'bout 4 12" woofers. This time in the pic we're looking down through the table top
dunno, ocool
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Crazy Yankee. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Quote:
Yup, I think so. I think the baffle size gets really large to prevent cancellation of the lower freqs. It might be diminishing returns?? Large power,to compensate for the roll-off due to a smallish baffle, is pretty cheap. It seems like some sort of eq below Fs is always handy. I'm going to be trying one of these H-Baffle things, I'm really curious now.
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".........These go to eleven" |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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You might just use 2 15" or larger, each in a ripole config, and use the resulting ripole boxes as the legs of the table. This way you should (theoretically) get lower response due to the ripole config lowering the drivers' Fs, and the drivers will be completely protected from feet or anything that might go under the table. You will definitely need alot of amp power to get these up to level with your mains/satellites, but another advantage would be that you could run them stereo (I seem to be able to locate the source of bass further down in frequency than is normal, so I like that), or at the very least run the things with a pair of cheaper amp channels instead of needing a more expensive, single monster channel.
Kensai |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Long Island, NY
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I think the drawing is definately NOT pathetic.
Much easier to read and understand than the convoluted stuff that usually happens between my ears. Sorry I can't be any help on how the design should work, which explains why I'm the one asking instead of answering the questions around here.
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Probably a silly question, but ........ |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
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Quote:
You'd probably want to cover the top with cork sheets or something that would minimize cups sliding off due to vibrations :-) Tom.
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Now, we can do this the hard way, or... well, actually there's just the hard way. -- Buffy Summers (Buffy the Vampire Slayer) |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Crunchville, where I don't fit in.
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Quote:
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Crazy Yankee. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: home sweet home
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hi
or maybe you can forget open baffle bass and do some real bass with this coffee table http://www.decware.com/WO32/wo32.htm ed ps: been there done that, open baffle bass is not easy, simply put, you need large baffle with woofers with large Xmax on it, thats all |
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