I have a pair of these drivers & a pair of new Bash plate amps, I tore my ported subs apart & robbed the BASH amps. I seriousely dislike ported subs, but need a pair for some OB reinforcement on the bottom end. Will these drivers be suited for sealed cab..? & if so what size should I build it..I am new to subs..but did see potential when I ran the ported pair with full rangers...I am now going B200, with bottom support somehow.I would like to modularly attach the baffles to the subs...the BASH amps go from 50-150hz..... If someone could stear me in the right direction. I run a quad of 300b in PP@ 22w for the fullranger..TVC & DAC-AH in bypassed output stage form. Is there another way I should try these drivers for bottom end support or just get differant drivers..I would like to use them. I am NOT looking for anything below 40hz ........
Thanks,
J & G
Thanks,
J & G
It looks like that driver is best suited for use in a ported design.I did a quick calculation for a sealed box with a Q of.7 and the f3 was 61 hz in a 28 litre box.Not good!
So if you intend to use this driver and it does look like a good one my advice would be to use it ported if you want any bass.
So if you intend to use this driver and it does look like a good one my advice would be to use it ported if you want any bass.
Thanks for the info,,looks like I will have to go a differant route for my bottom end In my OB fullranger experiments..I will use the driver elsewhere....Now I have to reasearch for drivers for sealed. or differant configuaration. I really want to stay away from ported subs, very bad experience with me on those....
For music I agree sealed is the way to go.
You might check Parts Express they have some excellent drivers that would work great in small a sealed box.http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=30
You might check Parts Express they have some excellent drivers that would work great in small a sealed box.http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=30
For music sealed is the way to go & the M26 is a great driver.
If you can check out a sealed box with Q of 0.5, although inefficient will result in the lowest extension.
I modelled 90litres with an f3 of 60hz (not so great) but wait! the f10 is close to 25hz! I realise 90litres is getting bit big, but with 2 drivers you could do an isobarik which will reduce to 45litres & result in a lower f3 again. The only sacrifice is efficiency, but being active you can just increase gain & Eq.
Check out
http://www.customanalogue.com/sub_index.htm
for more info on low Q subwoofers.
If you can check out a sealed box with Q of 0.5, although inefficient will result in the lowest extension.
I modelled 90litres with an f3 of 60hz (not so great) but wait! the f10 is close to 25hz! I realise 90litres is getting bit big, but with 2 drivers you could do an isobarik which will reduce to 45litres & result in a lower f3 again. The only sacrifice is efficiency, but being active you can just increase gain & Eq.
Check out
http://www.customanalogue.com/sub_index.htm
for more info on low Q subwoofers.
You may want to contact barfind who is a member and has just finished testing heaps of variations of subs with these drivers to go with his B200 OB's. He may be able to steer you in a direction with what he has found. He also had a 300B in the past so would be familiar with what you are using.
Another possibility would be to use them with the control unit described here. http://sound.westhost.com/project48.htm
Your VIFA's would be well suited for this project.If you put each driver in a 28 litre box and bypass any EQ and crossover's in your Bash amps and use the describe controller it should work well.
Your VIFA's would be well suited for this project.If you put each driver in a 28 litre box and bypass any EQ and crossover's in your Bash amps and use the describe controller it should work well.
Take a look at passive radiator designs. My passive radiator subwoofer has a very "sealed" sound until you get to the tuning frequency, where it becomes more "vented" in character. But it's tuned to 20 Hz, so for music the passive radiators hardly get into the action at all (except for the pressure wave of the kick drum). A deep tuned passive radiator box sounds like the way to go. Make it a smaller box, using heavier radiators.
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