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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Maryland, USA
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I've tried modeling the Tangband W8-1363SA neo sub and have had very little success. I'm trying to build a small sub to compliment a "zaph" Hi-Vi B3S system.
Has anybody else used this sub with good results? Parts Express W8-1363SA Webpage |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
4 to 6 litres sealed, will need an amp with bass boost. or 8 to 12 litres vented tuning around 33Hz, as the volume is so small you will need to use a 10" passive radiator. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Maryland, USA
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Not trying to fool mother nature... just want to know if anyone has had success building an enclosure that takes full advantage of what this speaker is capable of.... but thanks for the helpful post.
-Jim |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
You're welcome! Well, this is the subwoofer forum and you said you want a small one, which per the article is an oxymoron so it seemed the appropriate observation, but as always YMMV. Anyway, for acceptable small room/'intimate' seating LF/midbass performance, sreten's alignments should work fine for music if the published specs are reasonably accurate, but to get the most out of it overall will require a large pipe horn, preferably corner loaded. GM
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
No its not an oxymoron, you trade amplifier power for box size. Note that max volume in the low bass = cone area x excursion, max volume in the upper bass = sensitivity x amplifier power. In this case c/o is to two B3S fullrangers so upper bass level required is very modest, therefore the sub can be small. For this purpose you need a low sensitivity driver, this means for the bass extension the sub will be small. Low sensitivity and high excursion also means it can sink the sub amplifier power. A higher sensitivity unit needs a larger box and less amplifier power for the same performance as the above. IMO with a PR and plenty of juice (150W) its a near ideal unit for purpose. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Indiana
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Maybe it is a matter of perspective. To me anything 1ft^3 or less is pretty darned small. My mod of this driver indicates that we can get down to 30Hz with a slight EBS alignment with about 6/10 of a cubic footh and about 11" long port of 1.75". Now you would have to be a little bit careful about designing for a port that long but it seems like it could be done. It seems like going much lower would be difficult for any 8" driver.
mike |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Maryland, USA
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Thanks for the suggestions!
On the PR, I think I'd need at least 2 of the Dayton 10'' PR's or one 12'' to get me the kind of excusion that I'd need to match the 12mm Xmax of the W8-1363SA. That would take up a lot of real-estate and force a larger box that I want to use. What do you think about a Linkwitz Transform circuit that gets me an F3 of 30Hz? I'm worried about port noise on the ported options, and a large port to get rid of the noise ends up being unmanageably long. If I have a moderate power LT circuit and use a 250 watt plate amp, I think that I can get some good performance out of this long excursion "sub". -Jim |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Perhaps the long port could be used as part of a speaker stand if this is needed?
jamikl |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
Strictly speaking we are not discussing a Linkwitz Transform, just simple bass boost, which is available on several plate amplifiers. |
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