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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Hi all,
I'm new here, so I hope somebody can help me out. I'm wan't to build a subwoofer to complete the bottom of my Dynaudio BM 6 studio monitors. http://www.dynaudioacoustics.com/Default.asp?Id=275 I ordered a Peerless 10" with a passive slave 265grams to go in a front loaded cabinet. I don't wan't a booming sub, just a good frequence response to control the lowest part of the material I mix. Got some discription from the internet and made a drawing. Can give me some clues if I'm going to get good results? I'm gonna put some more information on this site as soon as I start building... Thanx, John |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Belgium
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Have you seen this design already? Maybe it can give you an idea about the possible end result.
http://www.hardwareanalysis.com/content/article/1789/ Regards |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Thnx GeWa,
I saw the article, and I've started building after consulting some guys from Speaker & Co. I also bought the Peerless @ Speaker & Co, it only took 3 days... so I could'nt wait getting started. So here is the first picture... |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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they fit almost air tight
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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what did u use to cut the holes out?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Belgium
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Looks like it's coming along nicely. With which program did you made the drawing that you show in post #1. I've been tempted to build me one of these for a while now so I'm really curious to the end result and your comments about this sub.
Regards |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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it looks like he has used google sketchup for his drawing
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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I used a Plunge Router to cut the holes, and sketch-up for the drawing.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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with a jig?
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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I used the standard guide that comes with the router, turned it up side down, and put it back in the router like u use it when you want to cut straight guided lines or edges. Mine has 2 holes in it, in line with the bit. I drilled a 4mm hole in the center of the speaker position and used a 5mm screw from the bottom center of the hole. As it comes out at the other end, you can place the little hole around it, and then adjust it exactly to get the desired diameter. It’s very accurate, the speaker just fit in, not able to move at all.
I have finished the cabinet, and doing some test right now, my first impression is amazing! It perfectly matches with the Dynaudio BM 6 speakers. For now I’m using an Alesis RA 500 amplifier directly connected to the sub out of my soundcard. Still don’t now what kind of amp I’m going to use; Thommessen Proteus SW2.5, Hypex DS 2.0. Suggestions are welcome. |
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