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Old 27th August 2006, 01:45 PM   #21
Choots is offline Choots  Canada
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Default Update: Box Assembly and testing

I've completed the assembly and initial tests of the sub, and I'm impressed. I have a strong pro audio/music background, and I've certainly got my expectations around LF audio, so I was hoping I wouldn't be too disappointed when I first heard it. But so far I've been very pleasantly surprised.

Here's a few more pics.


Click the image to open in full size.
Checking the internal seals.
The sub and it's maker. Gives new meaning to the term, "blockhead"...


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The amp installed.
Assembly is pretty easy; there's the amp, the box, and the driver. A couple of screws later, you're done. I wonder if it would benefit from some stuffing?


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The driver installed.
Yep, it's ready to rock. When testing his sub, the true Canadian always starts with Rush.
It's a rule.


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Driver excursion.
This picture doesn't show it, but the excursion on this thing is incredible the first time you see it. I plugged it in and ran some live Rush from R30, tested out the THX Intro/Demo, and then played the opening five minutes of LOTR - Fellowship of the Ring. All I can say is that was a new experience, taking me back to the first time I saw the movie. It scared the hell out of me!
I wasn't prepared for how loud and clean this could play...and I was surprised how much it shook my house, which I didn't really expect from this design!


I also watched the opening of SW:ROTS last night and then watched V for Vendetta, where there's some pretty good low end sequences, especially at the end. I was pleased with the initial settings I had for the sub; it seemed to blend quite well with my other speakers, although I was probably running it too hot. Hopefully with break-in and some adjustment, I can smooth it out more. I'm sure there's some ugly room mode issues looming requiring alot of tweaking the freq. response in room, but I'm ready for it. As I've probably mentioned, I'll be using some RTA software to analyze the output and the Behringer FBQ2496 as a parametric EQ to adjust the response.

At this point I'm quite pleased with this design and the outcome so far. My next posting will track the choice of veneer and finish. I'll also update my progress on the frequency response tweaking.

Please leave me your impressions or feedback.
Also, will stuffing the sub with about a half-pound of Acousta-Stuf would have a positive effect, or be a waste of material?

Thanks,
Peter
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Old 27th August 2006, 04:57 PM   #22
F1 FAN is offline F1 FAN  Canada
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Heh nice job there Peter.
I bet it sounds good and I agree RUSH is a must for the first tune.
As far as using the acousta stuff regular dacron poly fill will give you the same results.Stuffing will lower the system Q a bit but it probably would not be audibly significant.

For a veneering idea here is a link for a sub quite similar to yours. I really like the look of this one.http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...ake/index.html
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Old 27th August 2006, 10:49 PM   #23
Choots is offline Choots  Canada
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Well, that's funny. Great minds must think alike.

The Drake is the subwoofer I was originally going to build... That's exactly what I had intended from a design perspective. I plan to chamfer the edges and finish with veneer in the same basic way...

Also, I do have the Acousta-Stuf material, so I guess I'll try it out once I figure out my room colors, and have a chance to apply the veneer.

Thanks for your comments; it does sound good!

Cheers!
Peter
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Old 27th August 2006, 11:05 PM   #24
F1 FAN is offline F1 FAN  Canada
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I am also building a sub and was looking for finishing ideas and came across the Drake and really liked it because the chamfered edges.I dont think I could do them correctly though so I will just keep square corners.
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Old 28th August 2006, 02:22 AM   #25
Choots is offline Choots  Canada
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Are you worried about the veneering of the chamfered edges? Or the cutting of the chamfers on the box?

I once saw a post where Darren Kazuma discussed his specific veneering technique on the Drake; the order of operations he took for it to look best. I'll see if I can find that info.

It doesn't sound that hard, but I've had lots of experience with related things... The best thing might be to try a little test first and see what issues you run into.

Peter
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Old 28th August 2006, 02:43 AM   #26
F1 FAN is offline F1 FAN  Canada
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Yes Peter it is the veneering of chamfered edges that scare me.I have done a fair amount of veneering but this looks a bit tricky and I don't want to mess it up.

If you did happen to find the post you mention that would be great.

I was originally going to try a gloss piano black finish but it would be way too much work and would not match any of my furniture.

Here is a few pics of my partially completed project. http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...f-eas-sub.html
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Old 28th August 2006, 02:49 AM   #27
sqlkev is offline sqlkev  United States
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Great work!!!
Now plan for the next uber 2 or 3 ways main tower

One thing you can do to improve on the sub is adding some feet to it.
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Old 29th August 2006, 12:51 PM   #28
Choots is offline Choots  Canada
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Thanks sqlkev,

I've been thinking about spikes, but since I'm chamfering the edges, I also could put it on a beveled platform that would give it a unique look.

I'm trying to visualise that...

Peter
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Old 30th August 2006, 03:19 PM   #29
badman is offline badman  United States
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For feet, www.partsexpress.com is clearing out some "outrigger" spikes, $15 gets you a set of four, with the mounting brackets, a set of brass spikes, and a set of rubber spikes.

They look sharp and are quite the bargain. I just ordered 4 sets, depending how I like them, I might order 4 more
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I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned!
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Old 31st August 2006, 11:42 AM   #30
tade is offline tade  United States
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I really love this subwoofer driver, and your execution is quite nice! One thing about my build which caused large amounts of woe waas that I too mitered every edge. The woodworker who was helping me decided we would use woodworking epoxy because of its high strength and low creep. We did, but of course some parts of the joints were dry, allowing them to spread in my hot car... I shot some polyurethane glue into them as best I could, and god willing they will hold. We also put a 3/4 inch roundover on the edges. This compounded with a mitered joint put the joint right on the outside of a radius, making nearly impossible to fill, and every one needed filling due to the dry joints... The moral of the story is; polyurethane glue is the best and what i should have used in the first place, and that mitering your joints is mostly unnecessary and should be avoided expecially when you plan on doing any edge treatment! That said, they did mostly fill and and they do look great. I have two of these in my system, one per side playing 500hz and down. They perform remarkably.

PS.
For all you Rush lovers, replace miter with mitre.
Of salesmen!
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