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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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hi
I would like to try and build a small sub to replace the one i got with this kit http://www.denon.co.uk/site/frames_m...ain=prod&sub=1 but dont really have a clue where to start. I was wonder if you guys could point me in the right direction where to buy the parts and whether to build a sealed or ported box i have a budget of about £150 for the amp and driver. Any help would be great guys cheers |
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#2 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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On such a small budget you will need to get the most bang for your pound. That will dictate a vented box. You will be looking at 10 inch or 8 inch drivers, depending on how big a box you can tolerate. Car subwoofer drivers would be a good place to start looking.
I'd look to power the unit with a plate amp. www.cpc.co.uk do some as do www.bkelec.com
__________________
www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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ok cheers mate
if i bought this amp http://www.bkelec.com/Modules/bsbp100.htm and this driver http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Drive_Uni...less/XLS10.htm what size of ported box would u recommend (trying to keep it as small as possible). cheers |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Drive_Units/Alcone/bx10.htm + http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Drive_Units/Alcone/bx10p.htm + http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSea...=LS01562&N=411 Needs around 1 cuft, 25 to 35 litres, PR tuned to 32 to 35 Hz. The XLS10 would also need the matching PR for a small box, gives similar response to the above in a box half the volume. /sreten.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Indiana
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Some of the paramaters like xmax were not given so I guessed. It looks like it was intended for a pretty small box but you have to tune below "optimally flat" to get much low output. Given the probable room gain I like this one which is a pretty small box good for anything down to 16' pedal stops at reasonable volume levels.
![]() mike |
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#6 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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The XLS10 needs a passive radiator because the box size is so small that you can't fit a vent in of the necessary dimensions. This would make a cracking little sub, but a bit over your budget? Otherwise I would have suggested it.
__________________
www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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a wee question how come this small sub using the xls10 doesnt have a passive radiator is it because the sub isnt very good or some other reason sorry for the stupid question but im a total newbie just trying to learn
![]() cheers for all the help guys |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
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sorry forgot to post link http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers/XLS200.htm
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#9 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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The passive radiator is required to get the best out of the drive unit. However, in a sealed box and with some electronic EQ it can still perform well. This way usually results in a bit smaller box.
BK must have chosen this design to suit their target price and market. It would complement your little speakers well, I dare say even show them up for how cheap they are, and be a considerable improvement on the effort you got with the set.
__________________
www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
If your going to buy the sub complete a Richersounds special is a far more sensible option, should be miles better than the 25W (50W peak) Denon subwoofer. http://www.homecinemachoice.com/cgi-...86_WHC_030.pdf The Mission M2SAS seems well suited to job required. /sreten.
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