Hi everyone, I'm new here. I've been reading many of the car audio posts, and I have a couple simple questions. I am interested in using a prebuilt Audio Enhancers TOY170-10 sub enclosure. My question is does anyone know the maximum depth of a sub that will work with this enclosure? I understand that it is made to fit behind my bench seat in my truck, but I have not found the maximum depth for a sub to be used anywhere online.
Aside from this I have another question. Does anyone have or use Infinity Kappa Perfect 10dVQ subs? I have and love the rest of my Infinity Kappa series equiptment.
Also, this is kinda far out there, but I have 6x9 Kappas currently behind my bench seat, is there any way to basically mount these into the upper corners of my truck on the ceiling or any other exotic spaces inside my truck? Thanks again for all of your opinions and help!!
~Nick
Aside from this I have another question. Does anyone have or use Infinity Kappa Perfect 10dVQ subs? I have and love the rest of my Infinity Kappa series equiptment.
Also, this is kinda far out there, but I have 6x9 Kappas currently behind my bench seat, is there any way to basically mount these into the upper corners of my truck on the ceiling or any other exotic spaces inside my truck? Thanks again for all of your opinions and help!!
~Nick
infinity VQ kappas are VERY versitile subs, and sound VERY good. congratulations!
and about the mounting them in random places, thats definately a job for fiberglass. Theres numerous tutorials on how to built fiberglas kick panels, esentially just build those that fit to wherever you want in your truck.
how to find the depth of the box? its slanted im asuming? this is just what im thinking right now(i have a math exam tomorrow, so if this is wrong ill be severely depressed) average the depth of teh top and the bottom of the box, then subtract the material thickness. also if the baffle is slanted keep in mind that the magnet will be slanted, which may make a difference on some large manget subwoofers. Also having a sub that fits 1/2" from the back wal would NOT be a good idea IMO.
and about the mounting them in random places, thats definately a job for fiberglass. Theres numerous tutorials on how to built fiberglas kick panels, esentially just build those that fit to wherever you want in your truck.
how to find the depth of the box? its slanted im asuming? this is just what im thinking right now(i have a math exam tomorrow, so if this is wrong ill be severely depressed) average the depth of teh top and the bottom of the box, then subtract the material thickness. also if the baffle is slanted keep in mind that the magnet will be slanted, which may make a difference on some large manget subwoofers. Also having a sub that fits 1/2" from the back wal would NOT be a good idea IMO.
I have looked everywhere online for the dimensions of that box with no results, all I know is that "It's made for my truck to fit behind the seat" I don't know anything more than that. Does anyone else have a 95-03 Tacoma Reg Cab with this box? What is the maximum mounting depth of a sub to fit in it? Thanks again for your help!!
~Nick
~Nick
roger_lew said:
Thanks a lot Roger but it looks like my plans are changing, because I realized I can't really put my 6x9's anywhere else besides behind my seat. I now have them facing up (opposed to facing into the seat) and they sound much better, now I just have to somehow get a 10 inch box either custom or prefab to fit right in the middle behind the seat.
I was also wondering after talking with the local car stereo experts does anyone know about putting the subs in the bed of a truck and cutting a hole through the cab to the bed like a port? They said it's possible and I would get plenty of bass into the truck, but I would like to know if anyone has any experience with that good/bad ect.
Basically I am trying to figure out my options because I do have very limited space behind my seat but literally TONS of space under the tonneau cover. Any suggestions, oppinions, facts, anything would be helpful. Again I appreciate all input so far.
~Nick
Nick,
My only hesitations about porting it into the cab would be what it would do to my resale value, and finding someone who had the experience to make it look and sound good. Other than that you would get all the advantages (and disadvantages) of a single reflex bandpass enclosure.
However, I think a brute force approach (maximize displacement & power) could provide you with loads of bass (and perhaps better sounding bass) without cutting up your truck.
Of course you might have to sacrifice your 6x9s... So as always there is a tradeoff somewhere.
Just my 2 cents,
Roger
My only hesitations about porting it into the cab would be what it would do to my resale value, and finding someone who had the experience to make it look and sound good. Other than that you would get all the advantages (and disadvantages) of a single reflex bandpass enclosure.
However, I think a brute force approach (maximize displacement & power) could provide you with loads of bass (and perhaps better sounding bass) without cutting up your truck.
Of course you might have to sacrifice your 6x9s... So as always there is a tradeoff somewhere.
Just my 2 cents,
Roger
Thanks a lot Roger. I am extremely hesitent to cutting up my truck for more reasons than just the resale value. I'm thinking of getting a custom fiberglass enclosure to fit behind my bench seat that houses both of my 6x9's (facing up) and one 10 or 12 right in the middle. I think that would be the safest bet as far as fitting everything in and it would also "look" good to boot. The only problem is finding a place that will do that for me and finding the funds. Does anyone know of places that do custom fiberglass stuff and have any ballpark idea what it would cost me? I'm guessing probably around $500 but I really have no clue. Thanks again for all your help Roger and everyone else.
~Nick
~Nick
As the site suggests, this is DIY. By the time you pay some one to build your box, you could have purchased the required tools and DIY. Then you still have the tools to do your buddies truck.
Start with some cardboard and some duct tape and build a form that will fit into your truck. Once you have the form built, then you can fiberglass over it.
Here is a nice little tutorial that will give you some back ground.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/fiberglass-tutorial-52028.html
The fleece is the key, I used fberglass matt before but the fleece works better IMO.
I've built center consoles, dashes, side panels, etc etc using simular methods. Speaker boxes I normally build from 3/4" MDF, but I have a full wood working shop so odd ball cuts and angles are not that hard.
Start with some cardboard and some duct tape and build a form that will fit into your truck. Once you have the form built, then you can fiberglass over it.
Here is a nice little tutorial that will give you some back ground.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/fiberglass-tutorial-52028.html
The fleece is the key, I used fberglass matt before but the fleece works better IMO.
I've built center consoles, dashes, side panels, etc etc using simular methods. Speaker boxes I normally build from 3/4" MDF, but I have a full wood working shop so odd ball cuts and angles are not that hard.
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