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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Okaaaaayyyyyyyyyyy,
So, I built one of my subs in a 9.5 cubic foot vented box, and after days of fiddling with port lengths and flare rates, etc.....I gotta say that I'm not so impressed. Ive got an identical driver sitting on the floor and I wanna do some experimenting/comparing. I've been reading about sonotube subwoofers and how amazing they seem to sound, and I kinda wanna build one myself. The current box is a MONSTER so a sonotube wont be that big of a change for me, plus its in a 25' by 25' basement. The only problem is, how do I figure out dimensions for it? Mainly things like tube diameter, port diameter, and tube length. Are there programs out there to simulate such things? I mean, materials for one dont seem to the that expensive as its mainly just sonotube and MDF I need to buy, because I've already got the driver, amp, and crossover covered. Can anyone lend a hand? Thanks, Devin |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Oh I should add that its a Snell SUB1800 driver, and I don't know the T/S Parameters nor have I been able to find them online, which should make modeling near impossible, right? Should I just try to mimick another 18 inch sonotube project and hope for the best?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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So it looks like maybe since I have 2 of these drivers I might as well throw them into the same tube right? One top and one bottom, unless there is some disadvantage to doing this. If so, 2 separate tubes would be fine.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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I dont know how old you are but bazooka used to make a "supertube". It was 2 6 inch subs that played soooo low. I would think if you could corner load it somehow it would do well. They also don't require huge amounts of power. The port configuration was the most interesting part though.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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So I'm thinking something like mounting one driver on top one on bottom, with an 8 inch port on the bottom thats about 24 inches in length. Also, a 500 liter tube thats 24 inches in diameter, which means one thats about 72.3 inches in length. Thats a big mother!! Especially since when its got legs and stuff its around 78 inches, and my basement ceiling is 83!Still, Can anyone run those numbers for me and see if they make any sense? Thats based purely on what ive seen others do, so I have no idea how to model it or anything, or if those numbers make any sense. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks a bunch. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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There's an on-line SonoSub calculator that you can use to determine size requirements. But as you said, not knowing the parameters of the driver will make designing a proper enclosure difficult.
If you go to Snell's site you will notice the size of the Sub1800 measures 45" x 21.5" x 17". Less wall thickness that's ~7 cubic feet. It doesn't say anything about the box design, but looking at the picture I would assume sealed. I believe Snell used sealed enclosures for many of their desings. Mark
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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I called them and its actually a vented design thats tuned to about 28 hz.
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: .
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Quote:
Call them back and get the specs and post them (at least get Fs, Vas, and Qts) |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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I'm still having trouble getting T/S params for the drivers, so let me ask this. Is there a ballpark estimate for volume for 2 18 inch drivers? For what its worth the cones are real stiff and there isnt much travel on them compared to other 18's I've seen, but theyre real tight and clean. I know this is a horrible question, but I know I'm sittin on 2 great subs and so far I havent gotten much out of em, and its really irritating considering I spent over a grand so far and have basically nothing to show for it. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks again, Devin |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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well , i doubt it will have ANYTHING at 18hz like the spex says, if its tuned to about 28hz. so someones lieing....somewhere.
i think you should just measure the t/s parameters yourself! i dont know how to do it, but im sure someone else woudl be more than happy to give you a link.
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