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mashaffer 13th June 2006 01:22 PM

Construction technique straight horn
 
Lets say I wanted to play with a straight bass horn. How would you go about constructing the horn? My thought is to go with several conical sections to simulate exponential but I am not sure about the actual physical framing of it as I have not done any construction work other than a simple box.

mike

wboyd 13th June 2006 01:41 PM

Mike,

Take a look here http://ldsg.snippets.org/HORNS/

John is extremely knowledgeable in horn design and a really great guy on top of that! I am sure that he will try to answer you questions and give you some good pointers on designing and building a nice basshorn.

Later,

Wayne Boyd

Rademakers 13th June 2006 02:04 PM

Skramstad's 6090 horn: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...502&highlight=

Other designs:
http://www.geocities.com/xobt/basshorns/basshorns.htm

With kind regards Johan

wboyd 13th June 2006 03:53 PM

Mike,

By the way...what part of Indiana are you located? I am in Louisville, KY....across the bridge.

mashaffer 14th June 2006 02:48 AM

Wboyd, about 250 miles straight north.

Thanks for the tips guys.

mike

carpenter 14th June 2006 05:25 PM

How large?
 
Construction techniques vary with the size of your straight horn.

When I fabricate a large square horn, I form the side walls as if I were framing curved walls in a house. Lay out the curves on a plywood base and screw in full length studs (mouth height length) every 12 inches or so along that curve. Add the top sheets of plywood (it has a matching set of curves drawn on the bottom). Plumb the studs with a level and attach to the plywood top.

The top and bottom walls can be laid out with the same template you used to form the side walls. Just turn the template sideways, make certain the axis is level and centered in the throat and mouth (I'm assuming that the floor and ceiling is level), then running your level perpendicular to the template and towards the stud sidewalls, mark along the vertical horn wall studs where you want the horizontal framing members to go. Watch out for the gap created by the flat side of the level as it lays in the template curve; stay on the correct side of the stud (the side that faces the throat).

Sheath and dampen with plaster/concrete everything when the framing is completed. It's useful to set the framing members in 12" modules on a large horn, go for shorter distances in a smaller horn.

John:)


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