Pro Amps vs. Home Amps

[CARTRulz]

Hi guys,

I've heard a lot of discussion between the quality of home theater amps vs. pro audio amps. For something like 300 bucks you can get a 200 watt home theater amp, or you can get like a 750 watt pro amp. Now I've heard home theater watts referred to as "real" watts, and pro watts as "fake" watts, meaning that the pro amps have very little current, and if I'm correct, current is what we want to move these speakers. So, any thoughts/ideas? I'm asking becasue these Snell subs I have are rated at 600-1000 watts, and so I could either spend 300 bucks on a 200 watt stereo amp, and still underpower them, or i could spend the same 300 bucks on like a Behringer EP2500 that puts out something like 600 watts at 8 ohms.

[xstephanx]

the EP is a SOLID amp, and from what ive read it DOES put out rated power(depending on THD, a bit more).

Ive heard that usually prefer the sound of pro amps over plate amps for subwoofers, many people have said that they sound "cleaner" and "tighter"

also the eztra headroom on the EP would help.

BUT if this is for a HT setup, you have to know that the input sensitivity is LOWER meaning you might need a booster, although iev never heard of anyone having to resort to a booster(doesnt mean it doesnt happen).

[pinkmouse]

There is a lot of snobbery regarding pro amps in the audiophile world. Yes, some do sound rubbish, and you have to be aware that quoted power figures are usually into 4ohm, but for driving subs a good pro amp is an excellent choice. I haven't heard the Behringer, as it is at the lower end of the market, but I'm sure it will be fine for you. If you want to spend a little more, look out for s/h kit like C-Audio, Crown, (not the Powerbase series), or QSC.

[Nigel Goodwin]

Originally posted by CARTRulz
Hi guys,

I've heard a lot of discussion between the quality of home theater amps vs. pro audio amps. For something like 300 bucks you can get a 200 watt home theater amp, or you can get like a 750 watt pro amp. Now I've heard home theater watts referred to as "real" watts, and pro watts as "fake" watts, meaning that the pro amps have very little current, and if I'm correct, current is what we want to move these speakers. So, any thoughts/ideas? I'm asking becasue these Snell subs I have are rated at 600-1000 watts, and so I could either spend 300 bucks on a 200 watt stereo amp, and still underpower them, or i could spend the same 300 bucks on like a Behringer EP2500 that puts out something like 600 watts at 8 ohms.

You're completely the wrong way round, PA amps are 'proper' honest watts, and cheap home audio systems are the ones that specify 'imaginary watts'.

Any decent manufacturer though will only specify RMS watts, and it's that you should look for. Your home theatre amp is more expensive because it includes a LOT more, more channels, preamps, possibly a decoder as well, maybe even a tuner?.

I really don't think you need to run an EP2500 for a home sub-woofer though - it will certainly 'move' them, it might move them next door though!.

[CARTRulz]

Cool, thanks guys.

I actually have looked at Crown and QSC, they seem to be real nice. I'm not really worried about overpowering them, as they are Snell SUB1800's that go for about $2500 each brand new, and theyre speced at 600-1000 watts. I only ask becuause these are subs that are made to be "clean" and "tight" and arent really made for "boom box" applications, although they certainly have an immense of output. I was just curious about the power ratings and the power quality, as I'd probably go with a low distortion and "clean" amp over something thats gonna push the sub to lots of output but make it sound muddy.

[Nigel Goodwin]

Originally posted by CARTRulz
Cool, thanks guys.

I actually have looked at Crown and QSC, they seem to be real nice.

The Behringer EP2500 is pretty well identical to one of the QSC models, as QSC haven't taken them to court?, it seems likely they both buy them from the same Chinese manufacturer?.

Certainly Behringer don't copy equipment to the extent of cloning, only the general idea and often the look! (which did get them in trouble with Boss).

[Relax]

Quick question, what would you guys think about this amp:

http://www.gemsound.com/products_amplifiers-pa4505.html

I can get it for under 300. Is there perhaps another amp that will do better similarly priced? 300 is my max, and I need soemthing like 700wrms into 4 ohms. (Well, I don't need that, but my subs would like it)

Thanks Ahead of time!
~Jerick

[Relax]

Just some more info on the amp above.

I spoke with a customer service rep, and He said the amp uses a 250v 15 amp fuse. Does this work out to be a max of 3750 watts? So the numbers listed by the manufacturer are acceptable?

Also, can I expect the 800 wrms per channel on 110v?

[Nigel Goodwin]

Originally posted by Relax
Just some more info on the amp above.

I spoke with a customer service rep, and He said the amp uses a 250v 15 amp fuse. Does this work out to be a max of 3750 watts? So the numbers listed by the manufacturer are acceptable?

No, 1650W - your mains is 110V, on 230V mains the fuse would be dropped accordingly (perhaps 8A?). Fuses don't really have voltage ratings, it's just the voltage it's guaranteed to break reliably.

Also, can I expect the 800 wrms per channel on 110v?

Yes, it'll be a 110V amp for the USA.

[just a guy]

I concur. Line voltage x fuse amperage = potential wattage

110v x 15a = 1650 potential peak watts x amp efficiency (described by a fraction of 1)

fuse voltage does not matter in this equation