Subwoofer with SEAS L21RN4X/P. Any take?

peterpan · 30th May 2006, 02:43 PM

Hello, I have a pair of the SEAS L21RN4X/P that I bought a few years ago. I want to build a pair of subwoofers like the CAIN&CAIN BAILEY. Please share any informatin you have in this direction. I have a pair of plate amps @ 300watts each. Regards Peterpan

sreten · 31st May 2006, 12:40 PM

Hi,

Download WinISD Pro and play with it. Your drivers are in there.

300W is overdoing it for those drivers. (check it in WinISD Pro).

Looking past the marketing BS the C&C subwoofer seems
to be entirely conventional, just an unusual form factor.

/sreten.

Puggie · 31st May 2006, 01:32 PM

I've been looking at building a sub with the L22RN4X aluminium cones (I have a pair but one has been over stretched I think). I think 4th order bandpass looks good (from memory I had 2 chambers of around 10l each and tuned to 50ish Hz for one driver), sensible group delay, cone excursion is limited by the sealed chamber and if you have a pair geometrically it work well in a 3 chamber box, the centre chamber beingcommon for both drivers and sealed the outer chambers having the tuned ports, BUT you can rigidly couple the drivers together in the centre chamber by removing the phase plugs (they are just glued in) and fitting a spacer tube between the magnets and a threaded rod through the pole pieces to lock the drivers together. this means the inetria from one driver moving will be canceled out by the other, this reduces machanical vibration quite considerably.

30th May 2006, 02:43 PM	#1
peterpan diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: london	Subwoofer with SEAS L21RN4X/P. Any take? Hello, I have a pair of the SEAS L21RN4X/P that I bought a few years ago. I want to build a pair of subwoofers like the CAIN&CAIN BAILEY. Please share any informatin you have in this direction. I have a pair of plate amps @ 300watts each. Regards Peterpan

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Seas L26ROY subwoofer FINISHED PICS	Drakmin	Subwoofers	15	21st May 2011 10:55 PM
Seas 27TDFC H1189 vs Seas 27TFFC H881	ermes	Multi-Way	4	19th April 2011 01:20 PM
Looking some Seas Woofer to make my HT Subwoofer.	samsagaz	Subwoofers	11	8th June 2008 01:37 PM
Wanted: Seas W17EX001, Usher 8945P, Seas CA18, or somewhat similar mid-woofer.	Spasticteapot	Swap Meet	2	7th March 2007 04:06 PM
Seas Excel W26 compaired to Seas L26 (10")	harruharru	Subwoofers	9	11th March 2005 09:47 PM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

31st May 2006, 12:40 PM	#2
sreten diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brighton UK	Hi, Download WinISD Pro and play with it. Your drivers are in there. 300W is overdoing it for those drivers. (check it in WinISD Pro). Looking past the marketing BS the C&C subwoofer seems to be entirely conventional, just an unusual form factor. /sreten.

31st May 2006, 01:32 PM	#3
Puggie diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	I've been looking at building a sub with the L22RN4X aluminium cones (I have a pair but one has been over stretched I think). I think 4th order bandpass looks good (from memory I had 2 chambers of around 10l each and tuned to 50ish Hz for one driver), sensible group delay, cone excursion is limited by the sealed chamber and if you have a pair geometrically it work well in a 3 chamber box, the centre chamber beingcommon for both drivers and sealed the outer chambers having the tuned ports, BUT you can rigidly couple the drivers together in the centre chamber by removing the phase plugs (they are just glued in) and fitting a spacer tube between the magnets and a threaded rod through the pole pieces to lock the drivers together. this means the inetria from one driver moving will be canceled out by the other, this reduces machanical vibration quite considerably.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)