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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Spfld, OR
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This is a 150 watt amp for an Energy powered tower speaker from about 8 years ago. I used to do all the Home Theater installs for the Good Guys in my area until they closed down, so they gave me all their remaining stock of replacement Energy, Polk, Klipsch and Monitor Audio drivers (about 400 total, let me know if you need something
There are two white wires and a black wire together that go in near the two large caps. The two white wires have two tiny caps at each location where they meet the circuit board. The black wire goes in near the large caps. There is also a black and red pair that go in inbetween the two large caps. I am used to the black and red being for speaker cnnection, but some of the people I talked to said that isn't necessarily the case here. Any suggestions? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Spfld, OR
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Here is a picture of the whole backside. The Yellow and black appear to be attatched to a part of the amp related to signal input and output.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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i know this is off topic, and i cant help you with your amp (but try the solid state amp forum)
...do you have a energy c-1 midbass?
__________________
CREEEAAAAAMMMMM CHEEEEEESSSSSSEEEEEEE!!!!! EEEEESSSSEEEEEEHC MMMMMAAAAAEEEERRCCC!!!! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Your second picture is actually the same as the picture in the first post... you might want to retry posting it, or maybe edit it if you still have time.
I would say your instincts are correct and that the white and black are power wires and the red/black are speaker wires, although to make sure we'd need to see the whole board. OffTopic: Whats the pricing for your overstock drivers? I'm thinking of building a small sub project. (Sorry, too good to pass up.... |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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This is my suggestion:
The two white wires: AC from toroid The black component between the white wires are the diodebridge. The Black wire nearest the diodebridge: Ground for aux circuits The red and black wire farest away from the bridge: + and - DC out for aux circuits Hope this may be right
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Free Schematic and Service Manual downloads www.audio-circuit.dk, Company: www.dupont-audio.com, Joint venture: www.DupontMantra.com |
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#6 |
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Banned
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From what it looks like there are 3 wires from the toroid 2 ac and one center tap the other black and red is for the speaker ( i would presume. )
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Spfld, OR
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Sorry about that. Here is the whole board picture. Just to be clear, the red wire at bottom left is actually the connector end of the wire you see coming out of the board, so just ignore it.
I have to admit, it might be better if i ask how I should wire this amp to one of those female outlets you usually have on sub amps. The descriptions I read there don't tell me much, unfortunately, as they are not my language. If you could tell my which to connect where, that would be much better. As for the drivers, I definitely have a midbass for the original C-1, with the soft black dustcap, but not the newer ones. I will gladly sell any driver I have for under $10. The nicer ones, like the Energy woofers and tweeters, for $10, and the ones I have by far the most of, the Polk drivers, for $5. I have about a million of the 3 1/2" drivers used in the original Energy Take 5 speakers, so they are $5. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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a curses! an accident involving mild inebriaton and a bb gun ended in the demise of one of the destcaps on my right c-1... they are my mains for music listening (dont laugh, they sound DAMN good for the price and are getting help with a sub on the low end)
would you happen to have an educated guess on the price of a new c-1 midbass? i need one of the silver ones.
__________________
CREEEAAAAAMMMMM CHEEEEEESSSSSSEEEEEEE!!!!! EEEEESSSSEEEEEEHC MMMMMAAAAAEEEERRCCC!!!! |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Spfld, OR
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You mean the silver cone or the silver dustcap? I'll sell you the one I have, which is a silver cone with black dustcap, for 15$ shipped. There's no way I'd laugh at that. I'd prefer to laugh at people who spend buttloads of money on a pair of speakers that sound no better than the C series. Easily the best speakers for the money.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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I'm not sure if you got my email Paulinator, so I'm posting here again.
Do you have drivers for the subwoofer s8.3, s10.3 or the s12.3? |
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