Hi Guys ,
I have a question can MTX audio Jack hammer 22 inch subwoofer be used as a high-end subwoofer for krell FPB amps.
I want to use it for High-End home purpose.
http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/pr...jackHammer.cfm.
I see that these subwoofers are about 369 pounds per driver.
JackHammer is the most enormous, mind-blowing subwoofer ever created. You will literally not believe it until you see it. Standing in at 23” tall, 369 pounds, and with 12,000 watt peak music power handling, you will be hard-pressed to find something that will get in the ring with this heavyweight.
Carbon fiber and glass fiber dust cap with aluminum honeycomb center
Expanded polypropylene cone with mica filler for reduced mass and increased stiffness
FEA designed progressive roll spider with 10 AWG integrated tinsel leads woven in to allow for 2.5” of linear cone movement one way .That is 5" Xmax
900 ounce strontium ferrite magnet with extended magnetic field gap technology and aluminum shorting ring
6.5” voice coil with a flat wound, long-excursion design incorporating 2.5” of x-max and 17 AWG high temperature aluminum wire
Aluminum heatsink to maintain the optimum voice-coil temperature
6,000 RMS, 12,000 peak music power .
I was wondering to construct the best available subwoofer.So if you guys have any suggestions.Please let me know
I have a question can MTX audio Jack hammer 22 inch subwoofer be used as a high-end subwoofer for krell FPB amps.
I want to use it for High-End home purpose.
http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/pr...jackHammer.cfm.
I see that these subwoofers are about 369 pounds per driver.
JackHammer is the most enormous, mind-blowing subwoofer ever created. You will literally not believe it until you see it. Standing in at 23” tall, 369 pounds, and with 12,000 watt peak music power handling, you will be hard-pressed to find something that will get in the ring with this heavyweight.
Carbon fiber and glass fiber dust cap with aluminum honeycomb center
Expanded polypropylene cone with mica filler for reduced mass and increased stiffness
FEA designed progressive roll spider with 10 AWG integrated tinsel leads woven in to allow for 2.5” of linear cone movement one way .That is 5" Xmax
900 ounce strontium ferrite magnet with extended magnetic field gap technology and aluminum shorting ring
6.5” voice coil with a flat wound, long-excursion design incorporating 2.5” of x-max and 17 AWG high temperature aluminum wire
Aluminum heatsink to maintain the optimum voice-coil temperature
6,000 RMS, 12,000 peak music power .
I was wondering to construct the best available subwoofer.So if you guys have any suggestions.Please let me know
For that much money I think you can actually get more displacement. If you could think of a way to do an infinite baffle you can take the money you save from buying a huge amp and the jackhammer, and buy a dozen or more of the dayton IB series or other sweet woofers. I think a whole wall of woofers would be more impressive, sound better, and take less power.
On the other hand if you do have to or want to build a box around that you could go for a ported box tuned rediculously low about the size of a huge refridgerator. Or, you could put it in a teenie sealed box and LT the hell out of it. You would sure need some amps though!
Check out these extreme subwoofer installs. LImited mainly by the Fs of the woofer. Which means crushingly low with piddly amounts of power:
http://ibsubwoofers.proboards51.com/
Also, IB subs I think require less woodwork because you dont have to build a box, which I hate doing.
Good luck!
On the other hand if you do have to or want to build a box around that you could go for a ported box tuned rediculously low about the size of a huge refridgerator. Or, you could put it in a teenie sealed box and LT the hell out of it. You would sure need some amps though!
Check out these extreme subwoofer installs. LImited mainly by the Fs of the woofer. Which means crushingly low with piddly amounts of power:
http://ibsubwoofers.proboards51.com/
Also, IB subs I think require less woodwork because you dont have to build a box, which I hate doing.
Good luck!
The MTX isn't intended as pure SQ subwoofer. Its a manufacturer's show piece built purely as a statement driver for marketing reasons.
Its geared toward SPL and competition use. It will soak up kw's of power and go extremely load with big displacement, what isn't guaranteed is that it will sound any better than a Tumult.
Its a lose lose situation if you buy one because you can get more displacement and less distortion for cheaper. For £1500 I'd personally go for 10 x XLS12's or 4 x AV15's etc. etc.
Its geared toward SPL and competition use. It will soak up kw's of power and go extremely load with big displacement, what isn't guaranteed is that it will sound any better than a Tumult.
Its a lose lose situation if you buy one because you can get more displacement and less distortion for cheaper. For £1500 I'd personally go for 10 x XLS12's or 4 x AV15's etc. etc.
A sub box for a driver that extreme will also have to be extreme. Forget 18mm MDF! Its destined to be a back breaking project - the driver would be crazy heavy, and the box would need to be huge and ultra solid. Do you have a crane?!
I'm also a bit suspicious it isn't a great idea unless bragging rights are a priority or wow factor.
If you do still want to go ahead, then I would consider a box that is very much like the driver - extreme! Perhaps a curved box made of some kind of sandwich construction.
Sandwich
inner layer: fibreglass
laminated layers of 3mm MDF or plywood
outer layer: carbon fibre
The carbon fibre is not needed for performance, but more for the look which would match the driver.
Bracing would still be a good idea.
If you went with a vented design then you could include a nice big flare and build using carbon fibre as well.
With all that displacement why not shoot for a low F3.
Heck why not make it out of 2" thick curved glass so you can still see the basket!
I'm also a bit suspicious it isn't a great idea unless bragging rights are a priority or wow factor.
If you do still want to go ahead, then I would consider a box that is very much like the driver - extreme! Perhaps a curved box made of some kind of sandwich construction.
Sandwich
inner layer: fibreglass
laminated layers of 3mm MDF or plywood
outer layer: carbon fibre
The carbon fibre is not needed for performance, but more for the look which would match the driver.
Bracing would still be a good idea.
If you went with a vented design then you could include a nice big flare and build using carbon fibre as well.
With all that displacement why not shoot for a low F3.
Heck why not make it out of 2" thick curved glass so you can still see the basket!
I'm a dipole guy.....even for a sub. If it's for "special effects" and HT, then go sealed, if it's for actual true hifi, I'd go dipole. I tried augmenting my present 30Hz dipole's low end with a sealed system and I didn't like the "bowl of jello"..."pushing the walls out" type bass that it gave.
For special effects (like King Kong hammering on a forehead), this is a good thing and sealed is best (in a corner) and maybe even large vented is okay.
But hifi? It really depends a lot on what the studio or musician(s) had in mind (and what you have in mind)...often it's not "recording accuracy" that is the intent. Unlimited dynamic range at all bass frequencies does not assure hifi but it does assure unequalled and very memorable special effects
IMO
For special effects (like King Kong hammering on a forehead), this is a good thing and sealed is best (in a corner) and maybe even large vented is okay.
But hifi? It really depends a lot on what the studio or musician(s) had in mind (and what you have in mind)...often it's not "recording accuracy" that is the intent. Unlimited dynamic range at all bass frequencies does not assure hifi but it does assure unequalled and very memorable special effects
IMO- Status
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