Hey everyone,
I am looking for a subwoofer that will really bring realism to my music. My main speaker consists of an LCY130, PHL1120 mid, and dual 8" Peerless XLS drivers per side. I currently have (2) Dayton RSS265HF-4 10" subwoofers but I am wondering if anyone has experience or other ideas for me. I have yet to use these subwoofers.
I intend on purchasing an Oaduio BASH plate amp to drive whatever subwoofer(s) I get.
Any help?
Thanks!
I am looking for a subwoofer that will really bring realism to my music. My main speaker consists of an LCY130, PHL1120 mid, and dual 8" Peerless XLS drivers per side. I currently have (2) Dayton RSS265HF-4 10" subwoofers but I am wondering if anyone has experience or other ideas for me. I have yet to use these subwoofers.
I intend on purchasing an Oaduio BASH plate amp to drive whatever subwoofer(s) I get.
Any help?
Thanks!
Yes, or going with passive radiators to have more low bass.
You could go with 2 10" passives per 10" driver, or a single 12" passive per 10" driver, or putting both 10" drivers in the same box with a single 15" passive.
You put one 10" on the side of the box, the other 10" on the other side, and the 15" in the front, so it's looking awesome but only you know that driver is not active
That idea is not crazy, that's what Klipsch does with the RSW15, passive 15" with an active 12".
You could go with 2 10" passives per 10" driver, or a single 12" passive per 10" driver, or putting both 10" drivers in the same box with a single 15" passive.
You put one 10" on the side of the box, the other 10" on the other side, and the 15" in the front, so it's looking awesome but only you know that driver is not active
That idea is not crazy, that's what Klipsch does with the RSW15, passive 15" with an active 12".
Sure, here's passives that you could use...
10"
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-494
12"
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-496
15"
http://yellow.mynethost.com/~bv1263...id=40&osCsid=2f235b38a56fcb91176d78a9c79a40e2
10"
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-494
12"
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-496
15"
http://yellow.mynethost.com/~bv1263...id=40&osCsid=2f235b38a56fcb91176d78a9c79a40e2
Just checked in WinISD, with a single PR15-1050 and your drivers, you could build something around 3.0 to 4.0 cu.ft internal net.
If the higher price of the PR15-700 isn't that much for you, then it might be better suited for enclosures around 3.5-4.0 cu.ft but you'll need to add mass to it.
You could go with separate boxes too, so two boxes between 1.5 cu.ft to 2.0 cu.ft internal net.
Bass would be flat down to 20 Hz easily, even 15 Hz if you go with dual 2.0 cu.ft boxes or the single 4.0 cu.ft. Must check if there's better alternatives to be less excursion limited on the passive radiator.
If the higher price of the PR15-700 isn't that much for you, then it might be better suited for enclosures around 3.5-4.0 cu.ft but you'll need to add mass to it.
You could go with separate boxes too, so two boxes between 1.5 cu.ft to 2.0 cu.ft internal net.
Bass would be flat down to 20 Hz easily, even 15 Hz if you go with dual 2.0 cu.ft boxes or the single 4.0 cu.ft. Must check if there's better alternatives to be less excursion limited on the passive radiator.
I would really like a box smaller than 2 cu. ft. but I am willing to experiment with anything up to 4 cu. ft. You made me remember how fun subwoofers are!
What made me reconsider my subwoofer route was that I saw someone selling Lambda Acoustics subwoofers for a good price. I am not sure if they are exactly what I need though.
What do you think? What manufacturers should I consider? Should I wait to hear my 8" XLS woofers because maybe I will want to replace those with something else that can handle down to 20 Hz and up to 300 Hz to mate with the PHLs.
What made me reconsider my subwoofer route was that I saw someone selling Lambda Acoustics subwoofers for a good price. I am not sure if they are exactly what I need though.
What do you think? What manufacturers should I consider? Should I wait to hear my 8" XLS woofers because maybe I will want to replace those with something else that can handle down to 20 Hz and up to 300 Hz to mate with the PHLs.
Well there's Acoustic Elegance with the AV12 and AV15, they are the guys who bought Lambda when it closed.
If you want to replace those 8" XLS, Lambda would be the best stuff I guess, but for subwoofer duty 15-25 Hz there's better drivers available.
There's also Ascendant Audio, who offer lots of different drivers for low prices.
It depends what are you looking for... I bet if you change those XLS you don't want a subwoofer anymore?
If you want to replace those 8" XLS, Lambda would be the best stuff I guess, but for subwoofer duty 15-25 Hz there's better drivers available.
There's also Ascendant Audio, who offer lots of different drivers for low prices.
It depends what are you looking for... I bet if you change those XLS you don't want a subwoofer anymore?
http://www.madisound.com/pdf/vifa/ma26wr09-04.pdf
this is a little hidden gem.very musical.i have one in a sealed box.sometimes i'm shocked how real it sounds.most impressive
this is a little hidden gem.very musical.i have one in a sealed box.sometimes i'm shocked how real it sounds.most impressive
Just reviving this thread for the sake of designing a sub or subs with these same drivers.
I now have two DAYTON RSS265HF and 2 15 in Passives.
I really want some low end, yet I want fast detail. Sealed with these drivers does not get me low enough.
So I plan a ported or PR enclosure. My questions are:
~Are passive radiator systems better than ported?
~Are the PRs I have suitable for this aplication?
I now have two DAYTON RSS265HF and 2 15 in Passives.
I really want some low end, yet I want fast detail. Sealed with these drivers does not get me low enough.
So I plan a ported or PR enclosure. My questions are:
~Are passive radiator systems better than ported?
~Are the PRs I have suitable for this aplication?
A huge ported box can be better than a PR box because of the lower group delay, lower rolloff under tuning point, it's also usually cheaper.
On the other hand, the PR box is better. No vent noise from high velocities, no noise from pipe resonances, no port compression and smaller boxes.
I don't like Bill F. designs unless you're looking at crazy midbass levels (>40 Hz stuff).
Since you have two 15" PRs on hand, I heavily suggest you to build a passive radiator box. The 15" PRs are probably well suited for your application, can you redirect us to the spec sheet for the PRs you got?
On the other hand, the PR box is better. No vent noise from high velocities, no noise from pipe resonances, no port compression and smaller boxes.
I don't like Bill F. designs unless you're looking at crazy midbass levels (>40 Hz stuff).
Since you have two 15" PRs on hand, I heavily suggest you to build a passive radiator box. The 15" PRs are probably well suited for your application, can you redirect us to the spec sheet for the PRs you got?
I do not have specs for the PRs. They are actually 15 inch velodyne HGS-X subs that were ruined. I recieved them from someone on this forum.
I am working on trying to get specs from Veldoyne, not to mention figure out the Fs of the driver via resonance from another subwoofer.
I looked at Bill F's designs, and thought the same thing, alot of midbass. However the auto tuba and table tuba look to get pretty low. The complexity vs. performance is key. PR, Sealed, and Ported boxes are no trouble, but the tuba looks to be a higher degree of dificulty.
Thanks for your input!
I am working on trying to get specs from Veldoyne, not to mention figure out the Fs of the driver via resonance from another subwoofer.
I looked at Bill F's designs, and thought the same thing, alot of midbass. However the auto tuba and table tuba look to get pretty low. The complexity vs. performance is key. PR, Sealed, and Ported boxes are no trouble, but the tuba looks to be a higher degree of dificulty.
Thanks for your input!
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