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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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i've got an Panasonic home theatre system right now with i think a 6" ported sub. i was wondering if i can make my own box and buy and amp and sub and just hook it up to my exsisting system. its a 500w that i use in my room. i listen to lots of music on it and would like for a little more bass. the sub on there now does not have an amp. also wondering if i could use a car sub. have a few layin around the garage. thanks
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Washington State, USA
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Should work, but bear in mind that the connection to your current (non-powered) sub is speaker-level, so you'll need to be sure the amp you buy has speaker post input connectors as well as the usual low level RCA connectors. Many do, just check for it when you're shopping.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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ok thanks i will look into that... thanks again
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
The golden rule of DIY: Build nice, or build twice! |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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well the one i want to use is this one, since i only have one of these and its rated at 1000W peak. http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Infin...oductDetail.do
i can also use this one http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/MTX-1...oductDetail.do or maybe this one.. http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Pione...oductDetail.do i think the only problem i would have is getting a amp to power these suckers. do you know a good website that has home theatre amps? probably need like a 400W + amp... |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Yep. I'm doing the eaxct same thing with my HT system. I'm swapping out my small little sub and putting a Shiva in its place. All you would need is a plate amp to power an HT sub of your choice. Do note car subs are not a good choice for using as an HT sub. Check www.partsexpress.com they have lots of options.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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if you looking to spend that much money check out parts express first. I think you would get better results from a Dayton. If you already have those drivers model them up with a program winISD. You should aim for flat response into the 30's
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Now I would go with whichever driver has the highest linear xmax considering they're all 12". Fs will also play with the FR a bit so go for something with a low Fs. Circuit city doesnt supply these parameters so it looks like you'll have to go to the manufacture's website to look at them
__________________
The golden rule of DIY: Build nice, or build twice! |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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dont really know much about home theatre amps so i was just wondering if this one is any good and if someone could point me in a direction where i could find a good amp
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...27&rak=300-797 also ive looked at some of the subs on that website as well and most of them seem to be paper cones which i dont like. i dont know if they tear as easily as the car subs do? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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a car is a harsher environment then a house. Some car subs have paper cones too. Older RF(pre '03?) and I think some MA audio. I have heard rubber/butyl surrounds last longer then foam but am unsure about cone materials.
amp: parts express from link Output Power: · 150 Watts into 8W @ 0.09% THD (1 kHz) · 250 Watts into 4W @ 0.9% THD (1 kHz) no built in crossover? I would expect 250W rms to be acceptable. |
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