JL audio W3 Dual Voice 12" sub box question?

Trickflowing · 30th November 2005, 04:05 PM

Anyone know the dementions for a box for this sub? What kind of air space does it need? I think it should be hitting alot harder with 600watts going to it. I can barely hear it outside the car. I am using a good amp not a cheapo! I think my box may be too big. Is this a possibillity? also should the box be ported or extremely air tight? Thanks in advance for any help I can get!!

AutoAudio · 30th November 2005, 04:20 PM

Have you tried checking out jl audio's website. I would imagine all the information would be on there.

Bruce

Volenti · 30th November 2005, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Trickflowing
I can barely hear it outside the car.

? I've seen (and installed) several systems that aren't very loud outside the vehicle but pump on the inside (where they should, "outside" performance is irrelevant)

What is your vehicle?

What is the current enclosure for the sub and where is it located in the vehicle?

What x-over point and slope are you using?

AutoAudio · 1st December 2005, 01:09 AM

should that be a desire? do you often listen to your car standing on the outside or are you hoping to annoy a lot of people who dont want to hear your stereo to begin with. Perhaps advertise to thieves that you have something worth stealing. It was always my goal to try and make it to where you couldn't hear it outside the car.

Bruce

Trickflowing · 1st December 2005, 03:45 AM

Yea your right, I was just using that as an example. It isn't as loud as it should be inside either. My head unit is an older kenwood unit and it doesn't even need the mids and highs to be amplified to keep up with the bass. I have the sub in a pretty much generic, square box. It does have a slight incline on the woofer face side. I am not sure of the actual size off hand, like 22" deep, 14" tall and 14" wide, would be a good estimate. I will mesure it and take a pic tomorrow and post it up. I was thinking mabe the sub doesn't need this much air space and cutting off the back of the box and reattaching the back plate would lessen the air space. The sub seems to have alot of movement (to the point that it bottoms out and extends where you can physically hear it stopping)

I will check out the jl site though, thanks for the replies!!!

Trickflowing · 1st December 2005, 03:45 AM

Oh yea, It is in a 99' Eclipse in the hatch area facing the rear. Sounds best this way so far. thanks again!!!

AutoAudio · 1st December 2005, 03:49 AM

sorry if i was overly harsh.. people always complain about "boomers" and it give the car audio world a bad rep, that and my cars been broken into twice (but never when I've actually had a system oddly enough) and the thought of letting crooks know you've got something. Just a couple of my buttons I guess.

Bruce

Volenti · 1st December 2005, 06:11 AM

Your enclosure is too large (at approx 1.7cuft) reduce it to ~1cuft (make it a 14'' cube, or whatever shape is most convenient, but with a 1cuft internal volume)

Your current enclosure bottoms out at around 40hz with 600w of input power, with the smaller enclosure you should avoid bottoming out in most cases.

Trickflowing · 2nd December 2005, 03:06 AM

Awsome, thanks alot!!! Thats what I figured the problem was. What do you guys think about the "Probox" brand of premade boxes? I have a local stereo shop owner that is swearing it will make a huge difference, but i don't know if he may be just trying to sell an expensive box. Any experience with these?

I also have a Supercharged 92 5.0 convertable mustang that I am looking for a box for. same sub but the trunk space is very limited. He says this "probox" will be perfect for it and give a lot of sond for a vert'

Does this sound like B.S or should I go this route. same type of amp as before. 600watts and a 12" jl WO sub.

30th November 2005, 04:05 PM	#1
Trickflowing diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: FT Worth Texas	JL audio W3 Dual Voice 12" sub box question? Anyone know the dementions for a box for this sub? What kind of air space does it need? I think it should be hitting alot harder with 600watts going to it. I can barely hear it outside the car. I am using a good amp not a cheapo! I think my box may be too big. Is this a possibillity? also should the box be ported or extremely air tight? Thanks in advance for any help I can get!!

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30th November 2005, 04:20 PM	#2
AutoAudio diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Boston	Have you tried checking out jl audio's website. I would imagine all the information would be on there. Bruce

1st December 2005, 01:09 AM	#4
AutoAudio diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Boston	should that be a desire? do you often listen to your car standing on the outside or are you hoping to annoy a lot of people who dont want to hear your stereo to begin with. Perhaps advertise to thieves that you have something worth stealing. It was always my goal to try and make it to where you couldn't hear it outside the car. Bruce

1st December 2005, 03:45 AM	#5
Trickflowing diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: FT Worth Texas	Yea your right, I was just using that as an example. It isn't as loud as it should be inside either. My head unit is an older kenwood unit and it doesn't even need the mids and highs to be amplified to keep up with the bass. I have the sub in a pretty much generic, square box. It does have a slight incline on the woofer face side. I am not sure of the actual size off hand, like 22" deep, 14" tall and 14" wide, would be a good estimate. I will mesure it and take a pic tomorrow and post it up. I was thinking mabe the sub doesn't need this much air space and cutting off the back of the box and reattaching the back plate would lessen the air space. The sub seems to have alot of movement (to the point that it bottoms out and extends where you can physically hear it stopping) I will check out the jl site though, thanks for the replies!!!

1st December 2005, 03:49 AM	#7
AutoAudio diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Boston	sorry if i was overly harsh.. people always complain about "boomers" and it give the car audio world a bad rep, that and my cars been broken into twice (but never when I've actually had a system oddly enough) and the thought of letting crooks know you've got something. Just a couple of my buttons I guess. Bruce

1st December 2005, 06:11 AM	#8
Volenti diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Australia	Your enclosure is too large (at approx 1.7cuft) reduce it to ~1cuft (make it a 14'' cube, or whatever shape is most convenient, but with a 1cuft internal volume) Your current enclosure bottoms out at around 40hz with 600w of input power, with the smaller enclosure you should avoid bottoming out in most cases.

2nd December 2005, 03:06 AM	#9
Trickflowing diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: FT Worth Texas	Awsome, thanks alot!!! Thats what I figured the problem was. What do you guys think about the "Probox" brand of premade boxes? I have a local stereo shop owner that is swearing it will make a huge difference, but i don't know if he may be just trying to sell an expensive box. Any experience with these? I also have a Supercharged 92 5.0 convertable mustang that I am looking for a box for. same sub but the trunk space is very limited. He says this "probox" will be perfect for it and give a lot of sond for a vert' Does this sound like B.S or should I go this route. same type of amp as before. 600watts and a 12" jl WO sub.

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