I recently bought some Behringer B1800X pa bass bins and the drivers in them were pressed steel rubbish so I got some Eminence Omega Pro 18's to put in there.
But two of the t-nuts have fallen out and won't go back in. Even after trying to hammer the t-nut back in, and even with a new t-nut.
The box is made of 18mm MDF and seems to get softer every time I try and bang those two t-nuts in.
So how can I get them in??, I tried them in different positions and they still won't get in fully like the rest.
I don't want to make the holes for the t-nuts too big or I would have wasted £150 for what I bought each cab for.
Someone please help me out.
But two of the t-nuts have fallen out and won't go back in. Even after trying to hammer the t-nut back in, and even with a new t-nut.
The box is made of 18mm MDF and seems to get softer every time I try and bang those two t-nuts in.
So how can I get them in??, I tried them in different positions and they still won't get in fully like the rest.
I don't want to make the holes for the t-nuts too big or I would have wasted £150 for what I bought each cab for.
Someone please help me out.
how can u bang on the t-nut if it is the inside of the enclosure? the t-nut is mounted on the opposite side of the enclosure. when the woofer bolt is tightened it pulls the t-nut into the enclosure. it appears that the t-nuts were mounted on the front side of the box, wrong.
I've given up on using T-nuts because they frequently fall into the box when I remove the drivers. I now use brass inserts because they're much more sturdy!
Nice one,
David.
Nice one,
David.
I second the suggestion for a piece of plywood glued over the ruined bit of mdf, and re-drilled.
An easy way to 'hammer' in t-nuts without a hammer is to use a G cramp to squeeze it in. I always use a bit of contact adhesive aswell.( to prevent it from falling out later on)
Rob.
An easy way to 'hammer' in t-nuts without a hammer is to use a G cramp to squeeze it in. I always use a bit of contact adhesive aswell.( to prevent it from falling out later on)
Rob.
daatkins said:I've given up on using T-nuts because they frequently fall into the box when I remove the drivers
MDF cabinets?
I've had that problem a lot.
Nowadays I use one of the metal screws used to hold the speaker, together with a metal ring on the outside to just pull the t-nut in (M6 or M8). If there is only 1/12 th inch to pull, you can put some super glue between the t-nut and the wood. This will keep the t-nut in place even under mid/heavy duty.
Depending on the situation I put 1/25 th - 1/8 th Baltic Birch on the back of the t-nut while overlapping on to the wood (of the cab) and glue or screw it in place. Strong enough for heavy duty applications but still removable if necessarily.
A third option is to simply put a small screw in one of the corners of the t-nut. The head of the screw will prevent the t-nut from falling out and/or turning.
Wkr Johan
Nowadays I use one of the metal screws used to hold the speaker, together with a metal ring on the outside to just pull the t-nut in (M6 or M8). If there is only 1/12 th inch to pull, you can put some super glue between the t-nut and the wood. This will keep the t-nut in place even under mid/heavy duty.
Depending on the situation I put 1/25 th - 1/8 th Baltic Birch on the back of the t-nut while overlapping on to the wood (of the cab) and glue or screw it in place. Strong enough for heavy duty applications but still removable if necessarily.
A third option is to simply put a small screw in one of the corners of the t-nut. The head of the screw will prevent the t-nut from falling out and/or turning.
It's a 18" speaker, so big enough to get your hammer inside and do some banginghow can u bang on the t-nut if it is the inside of the enclosure?
Wkr Johan
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