Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Subwoofers
Home Forums Articles Links Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

We're saving for a new server - help us to serve you by Donating Today and become a friend with benefits!

Ads on/off / Custom Title / 2009 Tshirt / More PMs / Bigger Images / Advanced printing
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 9th October 2005, 11:29 PM   #11
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wellington
Id be more concerned with some kind of ignition (although it wouldnt be likely to happen if it was vacuumed then filled with helium)

You'd have to have a different method of sealing, id imagine - most glues are porous to a point (much like vinyl tubing is, but it doesnt 'leak' persay) so you'd have to have some kind of container inside the unit to stop it from leaking over time (unless you want to regas your sub... bahaha, classic)
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th October 2005, 12:12 AM   #12
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: New Brunswick
Default 2 ideas

1. the surround of your woofer leaks air, which makes it impossible to do this.

2. if you could stop the surround of your woofer from leaking air, a sort of nozzle sealed into the side of the box that has an adapter for attaching to a canister of compressed gas might be an easy way to put the gas in, but then you could never fill it completely with the desires gas,, just more and more.

also, has anyone thought about what pressurizing the air behind the woofer would do, (it the surround dind't leak air) i have a feeling that it would change something,

thanks for reading
__________________
My 100$ (final cost) line arrays will blow you away
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th October 2005, 12:24 AM   #13
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Columbus, OH
You could put two nozzles on it. One for putting the air in and the other for letting the air inside out. Granted, it would take a LONG time to reach even 95% of the kind of gas you want, but it would work.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th October 2005, 12:27 AM   #14
diyAudio Member
 
BassAwdyO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Illinois
Send a message via AIM to BassAwdyO
pressurizing the air behind the driver would cause the cone to move out and it would kill the driver's performance.
__________________
The golden rule of DIY:
Build nice, or build twice!
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th October 2005, 12:30 AM   #15
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 3
Quote:
Originally posted by Rademakers
sulfurhexafluoride
It is something like that, that Michael Dayton-Wright used in both his ESLs & his woofer boxes to give the boxes more apparent volume. (somewhere Nelson posted with the gas)

With Helium you'd need to build a much bigger box.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th October 2005, 12:49 AM   #16
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Østfold
Well, give it enough pressure and you would have a dome instead of a cone

If you pressurize the gas inside, you would have to do something to keep the voicecoil in the gap. Some kind of springloading maybe. It will stiffen the whole system and the resonant frequency goes up, and sensitivity goes down.

What about loosely filling a gastight thin bag with gas inside the box?
Then you could even have a BR or TL without thinking about gas leaks.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th October 2005, 12:49 AM   #17
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: New Brunswick
Default i think we've got something here

If the speed of sound is 7:1 in helium:air
and if that means the box would have to be seven times bigger with helium in it.
Who can do the calculations on a very practical gas.

who can figure out what the ratio would be for something that makes sound travel slower

imagine the possibilitie's in a car audio invironment, just think.

When designing a driver, you want it to be sensitive, work in a small box, and handle lots of power. im no expert, but i've been told that you cant have all three. something had to give. as if it were some sort of a trade off between the three.

So if you eliminate the need of working in a small box, you would not need to make a tradeoff on box size, you could focus all your drivers potential in the other areas,

Think about combining this design theory in a driver with FEA(finite element analysis), the driver would be the single best driver in production.

and who better to make the driver then Eminence, They could do the whole thing

Just a thought,

Thanks
__________________
My 100$ (final cost) line arrays will blow you away
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th October 2005, 12:52 AM   #18
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rotterdam, NL
Sulfurhexafluoride is oderless and inflammable, so no problems there (could have found that out yourself btw).

It is also a fairly large molecule so it wouldn't leak that much as air would. Some speakers would be unsuitable because of their surround or dustcap, however a rubber surround would be less sensitive for leakage.

Quote:
you could never fill it completely with the desires gas,, just more and more
SF6 is much heavier than air, so it would just sink to the bottom with the air floating on top of it. This way it will replace the air much the same as water would.

Even if it would form a mixture the effect would be very noticeable since the speed of sound in SF6 is much lower as the speed of sound in air.

Wkr Johan
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th October 2005, 12:55 AM   #19
diyAudio Member
 
BassAwdyO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Illinois
Send a message via AIM to BassAwdyO
Quote:
When designing a driver, you want it to be sensitive, work in a small box, and handle lots of power.
I dont think power handling was in there... I think it was low frequency extension that you were thinking of.
__________________
The golden rule of DIY:
Build nice, or build twice!
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th October 2005, 12:57 AM   #20
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: New Brunswick
haha,,

i was hoping someone would help me out with that statement,
__________________
My 100$ (final cost) line arrays will blow you away
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
build my first full ranger,let's build another one:a small fullrange high end pc-spea then_dude Full Range 2 30th November 2005 08:54 AM
Do i need to build main supply (240v) filter?Or build power distribution? thomgun_lc Chip Amps 9 16th September 2005 10:52 AM
build or buy navin Multi-Way 9 16th November 2004 05:36 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:21 AM.

Page generated in 0.35168695 seconds (56.83% PHP - 43.17% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2009 diyAudio