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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'm not sure what to do here but I have a feeling you guys can help....i'm starting my first diy project and I can get a REALLY good discount on mtx stuff....like these:
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...a_T9512-04.pdf they look like awesome woofers, but I plan on making a sonosub with 2 12s and i know these are made for car audio and I was wondering if I can pull it off with these or should I just buy a good set from adire audio.....thanks in advance. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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They look pretty serious all right...
If it were me, and the really good deal on them was in fact REALLY good, I'd take advantage of it. I'd build an enclosure that would be capable of accepting another driver, and in the event that the MTXs don't work out I'd sell them and get the alternate brand. Mark |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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I was hoping that someone here could help me make it work.....I tried to put the info in WinISD but there were parameters missing and I didn't really know what I was doing cause I was figuring on about 4' of 24" sonosub, and I need to know how I need to set these subs up to make them perform in a home theater environment.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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Hmm, well you didn't say that in your first post...
If you are using WinISD Pro then you could be right, there may not be enough info to come up with a valid design. However, there's enough to pump into WinISD Beta, and the calcs I got from the specs are: 1 woofer in vented enclosure (default #'s from WinISD) 93.4 litre box volume 23.96 Hz port tuning freq 102mm port diameter 37.4cm port length 3db down point of 21Hz Now, take these numbers and pump them into the sonosub calculator at this url: http://www.quux.net/roo/diy/sonosub/sonocalc.html I think from here you can start playing with the #'s in WinISD and the on-line calculator to get a match for what it is you're looking for. Looks interesting actually.... Mark
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Breaking speed records - http://www.mach5audio.com |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Québec, Québec
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You finally told me the woofer you plan on buying. Is this the woofer with the most excursion you can get at an acceptable price?
I'll model it in WinISD Pro, there's enough information on the link you gave me to model it.
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DIYaudio for President ! |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Québec, Québec
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One 24" diameter sonotube with 1.5" endcap on each end so the effective height is 45 inches long.
That means 334 liters, minus volume taken by the ports and drivers. Let say 300 liters to be sure. Your sonotube is too big for two 12 inches drivers if you want to go vented IMHO. Let me show you the simulation. In yellow, 2 woofers in a sealed 300 liters sonotube with 1000W RMS amplifier. In red, 2 woofers in a vented 150 liters sonotube with 1000W RMS amplifier, tuned to 17.87 Hz. In green, 2 woofers in a vented 300 liters sonotube with 1000W RMS amplifier, tuned to 17.87 Hz to use two common Precision Ports which are four inches diameter and 17 inches long.
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DIYaudio for President ! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Québec, Québec
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Because you can afford such a big sonotube, to use all the space, I recommend to use dual 15" like the Thunder 9500 T9515-04.
http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/pro...a_T9515-04.pdf Here you can compare the SPL response curve which is way better. I used 1000W RMS, 17.87 Hz tuning and 300 liters. In green, dual 12 inches woofers. In red, dual 15 inches woofers. In yellow, dual 12 inches woofers but in 150 liters to compare. If you want to go sealed, then dual 12 inches or dual 15 inches will be great. I used 1000 Watts for fun, you can use less, or more, you can even use the full 2000 Watts RMS these woofers can take if you have a rumble filter on your amplifier.
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DIYaudio for President ! |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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WOW.....the curve on those 2 15" woofers looks pretty sweet. I think I have found my woofers....I'm gonna need a pretty darn big amp for these babies...any suggestions on bang for the buck? Also, what does it change that these subs are car subs and not HT subs? I know that probably a common question but I can find a satisfactory answer in my searches....thanks.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Québec, Québec
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Well, if you don't care about using pro external amplifiers, you could use a QSC RMX 1850HD, with about 1800W RMS in bridged mode, so you should use two Thunder 9500 T9515-44 instead of two Thunder 9500 T9515-04. This amplifier offers very good bang for the buck. ( Available at $499 at http://www.acoustic-visions.com/ )
If you don't want a Pro amplifier, you could get two PartsExpress 1000W RMS plate amplifiers, one per woofer. This way you could keep the Thunder 9500 T9515-04. This is also good bang for the buck. BTW, you can use that much power, but you don't need to. With even a 250W or 500W amplifier, it will be very loud. It only depends on how much money you have. About car versus home subwoofers... it always depends on the woofer. It's better to check with a simulator. But usually you don't need to have a low Fs in a car because the car reinforce low bass easily. That's why high end subwoofer car drivers can have Fs around 30 Hz versus around 20 Hz for a home subwoofer. As you can see, some car woofers are very good in a home environment. If you choose the enclosure well, you can fit a car woofer in a home or the opposite. Put the woofer in the simulator and that's it.
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DIYaudio for President ! |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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I feel much better prepared now to get started on my sonosub...your help is greatly appreciated! I'll let you know how the results turn out...I think I'm gonna make sure those babies have PLENTY of juice as I want to really disturb the neighbors
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