Just received my AE AV12, it's a thing of beauty with the aluminum cone as you all know. I also have a PE 500W plate amp and am now ready to get moving building an enclosure. I hooked up the AV12 (VC in series for 4ohms) to the PE amp on my floor, using the LFE input to break in the woofer. Even naked it sounds sooooo much better than my old Infinity 12" sub.
Can't decide whether to build a sealed enclosure or a PR cabinet like the 12.3 Thunder with dual 15" PRs.
I listen to both music and home theater. I prefer a smooth tight sound, listen to jazz, classical, and rock, love acoustic bass guitar riffs, but also like to feel the THWAP-THWAP-THWAP of helicopter blades in action flics.
My room is 14x25x9 with vaulted ceilings on the longside of the room. There is one open 3 foot wide door way at the end of the room.
I need advice and/or design plans that anyone would share with me please?!
Thanks, Peter
Can't decide whether to build a sealed enclosure or a PR cabinet like the 12.3 Thunder with dual 15" PRs.
I listen to both music and home theater. I prefer a smooth tight sound, listen to jazz, classical, and rock, love acoustic bass guitar riffs, but also like to feel the THWAP-THWAP-THWAP of helicopter blades in action flics.
My room is 14x25x9 with vaulted ceilings on the longside of the room. There is one open 3 foot wide door way at the end of the room.
I need advice and/or design plans that anyone would share with me please?!
Thanks, Peter
I too just received my AV12 last week. I had the cabinet built and ready to go. I built the 12.3 cabinet for it a few months back. I'm also running the PE 500 watt amp with it.
It sounds great and goes pretty low. With a 20 Hz sine wave it hits about 110 dB then the passive radiators reach their travel limit. This kind of bugged me at first, but I have not had any problems with the PR's limiting out during movies or music though.
So far I think it works great for movies and music.
I would be curious to hear the sub in the 4 cu ft ported box. This is my first real sub and I decided to go with the PR's to try something different. I got the 1050 g PRs on sale and then used MDF blocks to add the 350 g. back.
I have it over at AE's forum gallery
http://www.aespeakers.com/phpbb2/mo...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Keep us posted as to what you select
It sounds great and goes pretty low. With a 20 Hz sine wave it hits about 110 dB then the passive radiators reach their travel limit. This kind of bugged me at first, but I have not had any problems with the PR's limiting out during movies or music though.
So far I think it works great for movies and music.
I would be curious to hear the sub in the 4 cu ft ported box. This is my first real sub and I decided to go with the PR's to try something different. I got the 1050 g PRs on sale and then used MDF blocks to add the 350 g. back.
I have it over at AE's forum gallery
http://www.aespeakers.com/phpbb2/mo...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Keep us posted as to what you select
I would suggest a vented or PR enclosure with LOW tuning (18hz or lower). That will give you the extremely low bass you desire, while also keeping the audible sounds clean and sounding much like a closed box.
I have this theory.... Once you get past a certian low frequency tuning a vented box starts to sound enough like a sealed box that no one will be able to tell the difference... In essence isnt a sealed box the same as a vented one with a tuning of 0hz?
I have this theory.... Once you get past a certian low frequency tuning a vented box starts to sound enough like a sealed box that no one will be able to tell the difference... In essence isnt a sealed box the same as a vented one with a tuning of 0hz?
Eric's 12.3 sub
Eric,
I found your gallery and really like the sub and towers (do you have a gallery for them too?).
How hard was it to trim the veneer for PR covers? Are the edged of the mdf visable?
Also did you use any fill other than the acoustic foam inside the box?
Thanks for the reply! Peter
Eric,
I found your gallery and really like the sub and towers (do you have a gallery for them too?).
How hard was it to trim the veneer for PR covers? Are the edged of the mdf visable?
Also did you use any fill other than the acoustic foam inside the box?
Thanks for the reply! Peter
The veneer for the PR's wasn't too hard to trim. I used a jasper jig to cut a circular template the right size (don't remeber what size it was though) I used the veneer cut out left over from the side to get the grain to match up.
I sandwiched the veneer piece between a left over piece of MDF and the template. I just used an x-acto knife and followed the template around. I had to do some sanding by hand to get the veneer to fit on the PR diaphram, but there are no visible spots of the MDF.
The veneer was peel and stick and worked pretty good. I had it all stained and varnished before I stuck it on for good. I'm a big fan of the peel and stick except for trimming it with a flush mount router bit, the glue tends to clog up the bearing.
Inside the box I just used foam on the top and bottoms, there's no other stuffing.
I used 1.5" wall for the baffles with the driver and PR's and 0.75" for the other walls. I would recommend using 1.5" all the way around, becuase the top of this thing still shakes a bit. A beer can will walk around the top of it. You would end up with a heavy monster though, mine tips the scales at 120 lbs.
I don't have a gallery for the towers. They are the dB616 t-lines from the parts express showcase.
I sandwiched the veneer piece between a left over piece of MDF and the template. I just used an x-acto knife and followed the template around. I had to do some sanding by hand to get the veneer to fit on the PR diaphram, but there are no visible spots of the MDF.
The veneer was peel and stick and worked pretty good. I had it all stained and varnished before I stuck it on for good. I'm a big fan of the peel and stick except for trimming it with a flush mount router bit, the glue tends to clog up the bearing.
Inside the box I just used foam on the top and bottoms, there's no other stuffing.
I used 1.5" wall for the baffles with the driver and PR's and 0.75" for the other walls. I would recommend using 1.5" all the way around, becuase the top of this thing still shakes a bit. A beer can will walk around the top of it. You would end up with a heavy monster though, mine tips the scales at 120 lbs.
I don't have a gallery for the towers. They are the dB616 t-lines from the parts express showcase.
Another option for you...
It might be cheaper to build (and some lay claim that it is more "musical" than PR).
Here is a double-folded (3 line) straight transmission line tower tuned to 17.5 hz (using Rick Shultz' AlphaTL calcs).
Enclosure's outer dimensions:
Height: 64.5"
Width: 13.5"
Depth: 11.25"
Transmission Line (three) inner dimensions (each):
Height: 52.5"
Width: 12"
Depth: 2.75"
Driver placement: at top (no offset)
Terminus placement: at bottom (below driver)
Regards
Joe
It might be cheaper to build (and some lay claim that it is more "musical" than PR).
Here is a double-folded (3 line) straight transmission line tower tuned to 17.5 hz (using Rick Shultz' AlphaTL calcs).
Enclosure's outer dimensions:
Height: 64.5"
Width: 13.5"
Depth: 11.25"
Transmission Line (three) inner dimensions (each):
Height: 52.5"
Width: 12"
Depth: 2.75"
Driver placement: at top (no offset)
Terminus placement: at bottom (below driver)
Regards
Joe
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